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[06:30:57] <z64555> hm. one nice thing about codewarrior is that I could view how much memory each file was taking up
[06:31:11] <z64555> right in the file explorer panel
[09:10:57] <goppo> hi
[09:11:33] <goppo> for a gear/wheel to freely rotate on a shaft, how should the gear/wheel be connected so that it won't shift position?
[09:12:04] <goppo> a pin won't work since it's supposed to freely spin on the rod
[09:13:57] <goppo> a gear pin, that is
[09:17:27] <theBear> goppo, some kinda stops either side is the traditional and only method i can think of right now
[09:18:00] <theBear> or i suppose a ball-bearing or other bearing may have some degree of inherant not-sideways-ness in it
[09:18:02] <goppo> theBear: right. but the stops would rub against the wheel causing friction, right?
[09:57:45] <rue_house> one hell of a night
[09:57:59] <rue_house> lots of wind and rain, not much electricity
[10:00:01] <DagoRed> That's unfortunate.
[10:01:08] <rue_house> so it having to rewind the pullcord on the genorator
[10:01:50] <rue_house> the 24V 75Ah ups held up tho
[10:02:08] <rue_house> tho the shop emergency lights died again
[10:08:15] <theBear> goppo, only if the wheel is being forced (reasonably/comparitively) hard one way or the other, in which case you should be asking yourself if you using the right approach, and if so thinking how you can lubricate/anti-frictionise that sideways ness
[10:09:22] <rue_house> theBear, you have any projects on the go?
[10:09:25] <theBear> course one might ask what the use of a single gear on a shaft is that might have excessive or really any sideways force, noting that meshing gears of most designs will tend to have no inherant sideways force or motion going on
[10:11:56] <theBear> pfft, one day i hope to get the fig8 cable taped to the side of my "new" iron-handle/assembly that connects/holds the old thermocouple reasonably near somehting hot, converted to a heater-element-as-ptc-heat-sensor circuit to suit the new bit, you know, someday, but it only seems to get further away between being busy crippleding and little things like soldering/fiddling fones for people that wanna help me stay not-quite-sober and
[10:11:57] <theBear> not-quite-starving, and little things for myself like the lead that should be making this 2nd screen to my right ya know, do something, or crap like that :)
[10:11:59] <theBear> and you ?
[10:12:59] <rue_house> lots of things
[10:13:13] <rue_house> boilers, robots, keep the house togethor
[10:14:42] <rue_house> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Soldering-Solder-Iron-for-HAKKO-Solder-Iron-907-ESD-936-Station-Handle-Tool-hakko-936-937/32278104580.html
[10:14:56] <rue_house> should I get you one of those to put on the project pile?
[10:15:42] <rue_house> I had to replace the tip with a copper one tho
[11:01:13] <z64555> yay for program optimization
[11:01:34] <z64555> program now fits on the 256KB chip, I think
[11:01:42] <z64555> compiler isn't complaining about it, at least
[11:06:12] <theBear> rue_house, you should suck on my not only ceramic-heater-element but CERAMIC EFFING TIP MA'AF!!!
http://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/TS1565ImageMain-515Wx515H?context=bWFzdGVyfGltYWdlc3wxMDE1MnxpbWFnZS9qcGVnfGltYWdlcy9oNDUvaDZiLzg4MTU1NDA1MDI1NTguanBnfDAzOTljOGUzMjQ3MzdlN2FlZjY1MTA1YjIwOTRhZTEyYjkyMjQyODQzODliMTE4ZGI1ZmYxY2NhYWQ2NTc2YTM got a terrifying link style current/new iron
[11:06:33] <rue_house> how do you tin a ceramic tip?
[11:07:00] <theBear> which is to say, a new-model/diff.-model-clone of the older one that was basically your link minus the faked-hakko-writing clone factor :-)
[11:07:14] <theBear> i have no idea, but fortunately it comes pre-tinned <grin>
[11:07:17] <theBear> kinda mind blowing
[11:07:24] <rue_house> wouldn't the thermal conduction of a ceramic tip be horrible?
[11:07:29] <theBear> if you zoom that pic you can see the rough idea
[11:07:39] <rue_house> took a bit to load, I see
[11:09:19] <theBear> i am led to believe that modern hitech ambiguous "ceramic" is good at heat-conduction, thus being found in not only fancy fan "magnetic" bearings, and the odd soldering iron tip/heater (well i think we all kinda assume in that context ceramic means thermal-cement from the lightbulb shop, but,) but increasingly in heatsink assemblies, as spacers and/or heat-spreadey elements in everything from lappies to multi kW mosfet power stages
[11:09:50] <theBear> "ceramic" seems to be the next "space-age alloy" or "titanium" etc etc
[11:10:00] <theBear> sales/ambiguous usage wise
[11:15:31] <rue_house> I find that anything non-copper is just horrible
[11:16:06] <rue_house> if the conduction is too low, the tip just freezes to large pieces
[11:16:07] <theBear> even allyminimum ? you sounding spoilt for scrap/raw metals now
[11:16:17] <rue_house> you can tin aluminum
[11:16:36] <rue_house> I made some brass tips for my iron and even it sucks
[11:17:13] <rue_house> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Hotsale-Pure-sine-wave-inverter-driver-board-EGS001-EG8010-IR2110-driver-module/32377949189.html
[11:17:28] <rue_house> apparently this is the core board for all sinewave inverters now
[11:17:41] <rue_house> its the truesine-controller
[11:17:52] <rue_house> whatever votlage you want, whatever freq you want
[11:18:16] <rue_house> serial configuration port, runs an lcd
[11:18:36] <theBear> thanks professor, this tip seems at least as good as the metal equivalents given most equal physically/absolutely possible test conditions, better or not it's hard to say due to less than ideal equal-test-conditions <grin> but very similar, noting that this style tip is hollow up to give or take a mm the base of the cone, and the heater is shimmed firmly up inside of that longer-than-tip-cone tubular section with not-too-thin walls on it
[11:19:09] <theBear> and i can't tin aluminium,, i don't have the fancy ally-flux(and likely alloy/mix) solder anymore :-)
[11:19:21] <rue_house> I'll dig for one sometime to try it out
[11:40:27] * z64555 reads up on his uC
[15:09:44] <deshipu> veverak:
https://cdn.hackaday.io/images/1804831457642612959.jpg
[15:10:48] <deshipu> mostly working, now code...
[15:11:00] * SpeedEvil wonders where his Naze is
[15:11:35] * veverak doesn't have urlscan now :(
[15:16:24] <pokmo> hi
[15:17:14] <pokmo> this lego gear has 4 round holes, how are they meant to be used?
https://www.thedailybrick.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/700x700/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/l/e/lego_gear_with_24_teeth__3648__lego-dark-stone-gray-gear-with-24-teeth-3648-27-612214-50.jpg
[15:18:34] <SpeedEvil> you press a lego brick onto them
[15:18:43] <SpeedEvil> or you use the little piviot bits
[15:59:54] <z64555> deshipu: that looks so much like a stock photo :P
[16:31:45] <deshipu> z64555: thank you, I guess
[17:43:15] <z64555> whaaat. TI has complex.h in its stdlib
[17:45:36] <z64555> no matrix though. bummer
[17:48:33] <z64555> it does provide a driver library, though
[18:12:39] <anniepoo_> MarkX - you around?
[18:13:01] <MarkX> hey anniepoo_ sup
[18:13:07] <anniepoo_> hey
[18:13:37] <anniepoo_> question for you - I have a 220 volt horizontal sander I've just refurbed. Big beefy machine
[18:14:04] <anniepoo_> refurb included the task of putting a new plug on it
[18:14:11] <anniepoo_> and some mechanical work
[18:14:24] <anniepoo_> I'm ready to test it. Whats the safe way to do that?
[18:14:44] <anniepoo_> and in general, of testing this sort of power machinery
[18:15:03] <anniepoo_> it's one thing to let the smoke out of a 5V circuit with the regulator in backwards
[18:15:08] <anniepoo_> it's another with 220
[18:15:14] <MarkX> :|
[18:15:23] <MarkX> no idea about that, sorry, i stick to low voltage stuff generally
[18:15:27] <anniepoo_> ok
[18:15:43] <MarkX> could try ##electronics
[18:16:03] <anniepoo_> wonder if there's a ##electrical
[18:41:41] <myself> anniepoo_: For small stuff (not motor-driven), it's somewhat standard to use incandescent lightbulbs as ballast resistors. For motor-driven stuff, have a friend stand watch. Seriously.
[18:42:38] <myself> For a motor, make sure it's securely mounted so countertorque can't make it jump all over. Run the power through an extension cord, and have the friend positioned cord-in-hand so they can yank the power if something bad happens.
[18:43:31] <myself> For even *bigger* stuff, you generally have a VFD so you can soft-start the motor. But first powering up the VFD after a repair, well, that's why they make arc-flash clothing. ;)
[18:43:58] <Snert_> plug the sander into an extension cord. Leave the far end of the extension cord disconnected.
[18:44:16] <Snert_> walk to the end of the cord and plug it in for 1 second.
[18:44:24] <Snert_> unplug it quickly.
[18:44:32] <Snert_> no smoke = looks good.
[18:44:53] <Snert_> now plug it in and leave it.
[18:45:02] <Snert_> put thick gloves on.
[18:45:21] <Snert_> then try to operate the saw. All with maybe a friend nearby.
[18:46:51] <Snert_> friends don't let friends fry their friend by making the decisions.
[19:08:57] <z64555> ^ what Snert_ said
[19:09:41] <z64555> shoot, I need to check to see if my ESC's will accept 3.3V logic
[19:14:24] <z64555> was so happy to find out that the new uC used 3.3V logic instead of the 5V logic. My old chip used 5V so I needed a voltage regulator for both 3.3 and 5V lines
[19:20:04] <veverak> deshipu: cool!
[19:35:19] <z64555> yes. they accept 5V logic
[19:35:20] <z64555> woo
[19:35:33] <z64555> err.
[19:35:38] <z64555> s/5V/3.3V
[20:13:10] <anniepoo_> thanks
[20:17:56] <anniepoo_> I got distracted - a tooth fell out about the point I asked that
[20:34:38] <SpeedEvil> We can rebuild her!
[20:34:48] * SpeedEvil begins crafting a cyborg tooth.
[20:40:34] <anniepoo_> lol
[20:40:49] <anniepoo_> gotta confess - I went to rite aid and got some DIY tooth glue
[20:42:26] <anniepoo_> 8cF
[20:48:40] * anniepoo_ worries about SpeedEvil's cyborg tooth. It's mostly made with those $3 chinese hobby servos and an arduino, and he's got a soldering iron to attach it with
[20:50:27] <Loshki> anniepoo_: so what's the problem? I suppose you wanted one of those raspberry pi teeth?
[20:50:35] <anniepoo_> lol
[20:51:09] <anniepoo_> =8cO tooth based on an old PLC cabinet from the 60's?
[20:51:32] <SpeedEvil> anniepoo_: I actually got bored and made it out of cheese.
[21:37:56] <anniepoo_> oh goody - cheese teeth
[23:35:47] * z64555 browses IMU's
[23:41:00] <DagoRed> hmm...
[23:41:15] <DagoRed> Has anyone managed to program the teensy 3.1 without using the arduino IDE?
[23:52:13] <MarkX> DagoRed: isn't the teensy just an avr breakout?
[23:52:21] <MarkX> with custom bootloader IIRC
[23:55:12] <DagoRed> Not the 3.1 and 3.2
[23:55:23] <DagoRed> Those are freescale ARM boards.
[23:55:38] <MarkX> ah
[23:55:54] <MarkX> check this out
[23:55:54] <MarkX> http://hackaday.com/2014/04/14/bare-metal-programming-on-the-teensy-3/
[23:57:38] <DagoRed> neat, that'll help
[23:57:56] <MarkX> would have been easier with the old avr ones
[23:58:26] <MarkX> just erase the bootloader and put on the (IIRC) lufa bootloader with an activation button press on boot
[23:58:28] <DagoRed> Well... I'm looking at the old AVR's right now but I need the ram on chip for my application;.
[23:58:28] <MarkX> ah well
[23:58:37] <MarkX> ah gotcha
[23:58:52] <DagoRed> yeah... all good thoughts for the average joe :
[23:58:52] <MarkX> why not go for a breakout board
[23:59:00] <MarkX> rather than a teensy though?
[23:59:01] <DagoRed> size constraints.
[23:59:12] <DagoRed> http://store.hackaday.com/products/trinket-pro
[23:59:12] <MarkX> ah
[23:59:22] <DagoRed> I'll be making my own later after prototyping.
[23:59:33] <MarkX> your own trinket?
[23:59:41] <DagoRed> I'm working with a 2 axis accelerometer
