#linuxcnc Logs

Mar 21 2023

#linuxcnc Calendar

12:02 AM mits[m]: I'm struggling to find if there's a way to measure the tip size on a V bit
12:12 AM mits[m]: other than buying an optical comparator or something
12:12 AM mits[m]: anyone got a method?
01:46 AM travis_farmer[m]: G'Morning ☕️
03:09 AM Deejay: moin
03:13 AM jpa-: mits[m]: you can put sharpie on a surface and cut very shallow lines on it at known interval; the distance at which all sharpie marks just disappears is the minimal engraving line width you can make
03:13 AM jpa-: the runout of the spindle will affect it also
04:04 AM Loetmichel: jpa-: the runout will mostly affect if the tip of an engraving bit will break off or not
04:46 AM jpa-: Loetmichel: not really, many engraving bits are single flute so that the engraving end is not centered in any case - a ridiculous runout might break it, but a typical 0.02 mm runout will just make the line wider or narrower, depending on what way the bit is mounted
04:48 AM jpa-: especially noticeable in PCB engraving, where +-0.02mm runout effect in radius translates to +-0.08mm difference in trace width
05:04 AM Tom_L: morning
05:04 AM DOS[m]: morning
05:04 AM jpa-: (hmm, got that wrong, actually translates only to +-0.04mm in trace width)
05:04 AM DOS[m]: how is everybody doing
05:06 AM Loetmichel: jpa-: i have seen 800W watercooled 3p spindles from china with 0.2mm runout. not 0.02
05:06 AM jpa-: heh, yeah, there is bad stuff out there :)
05:06 AM jpa-: and the longer the bit the worse it becomes
05:06 AM Loetmichel: indeed
05:07 AM Loetmichel: had funn with drilling PCBs with 0.3mm via holes (Tungsten carbide drills) with such a bad spindle.
05:07 AM Loetmichel: "fun"
05:07 AM jpa-: my CNC3020 spindle also has runout like that.. i knew it but somehow it still took me years to figure out why small endmills were always breaking
05:08 AM Loetmichel: was easy to fix though
05:08 AM jpa-: hmm, how?
05:08 AM Loetmichel: just get a dremel with a diamond bit, mount it to the machine and have the spindle move at the right angle up and down to "regrind" the spindle cone
05:09 AM Loetmichel: of the ER11 collet holder
05:09 AM Loetmichel: took care of that runout to the point that is was not measurable any more, providing you use good quality er11 inserts
05:10 AM Loetmichel: mictrometer dial didnt move at all afterwawrds
05:10 AM Loetmichel: -w
05:13 AM jpa-: hmm, might be worth a try
05:14 AM jpa-: i already did some custom tool grinding with a carbide engraver, it also worked surprisingly well
05:15 AM Loetmichel: just be sure to get the gcode for the xz movement right so that the resulting angle is half the ER11 angle
05:15 AM Loetmichel: and then gradually move it deeper until it grinds all the way from the corner to the top of the ER11 seat.
05:16 AM Loetmichel: (also be sure that your Z axis and spindle are perfectly upright!)
05:17 AM Loetmichel: or rather perpendicular(90°) to the faved off machine table
05:17 AM Loetmichel: faced
05:26 AM JT-Cave: morning
05:26 AM Loetmichel: mornin' JT. although its nearly lunch over here.
06:56 AM JT-Cave: A slight chance of snow before 9am, then rain. High near 45
07:22 AM Tom_L: chance of rain this am
07:24 AM JT-Cave: rain every day till Saturday here
07:34 AM mrec: does anyone have the documentation for a bd612 fuling vfd?
07:38 AM jpa-: https://cononmotor.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/BD600-Manual.pdf google gives this
07:40 AM mrec: I also got this but the company logo says fuling not chinafolinn
07:41 AM mrec: it might be the right one though.
07:42 AM jpa-: the seller doesn't provide manual?
07:48 AM menace is now known as Deknos
08:00 AM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
08:08 AM JT-Shop: now I have 2 modems stuck in Memphis...
08:36 AM travis_farmer[m]: JT-Shop: if you like, i can send you some of my luck... it isn't much, but it is bound to be better than the luck you are having with Starlink ;-)
08:52 AM JT-Shop: actually they are both in transit to Memphis
08:53 AM JT-Shop: I don't have any luck I have to make my own
09:46 AM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
09:51 AM mrec: is anyone into cables? I wonder I bought a 4 core cable from CN - when soldering the connector on the isolation starts to melt. Now I have a 3 core cable from our local taiwanese shop and it just stands firm when soldering a connector on (unfortunately they didn't have a 4 core cable)
10:10 AM roycroft: maybe use crimp connectors instead of solder connectors?
10:10 AM roycroft: they're faster to install and more reliable when done properly vs solder
10:10 AM Loetmichel: mrec: buy cheap buy twice.
10:10 AM Loetmichel: a.k.a: thats normal for cheap cables.
10:22 AM mrec: the cable is still fine I just noticed it's not high quality but the diameter should just be fine for the spindle
10:23 AM mrec: it's not buy cheap it's just the local store didn't have it and the other ones wanted us to buy 100m ..
10:23 AM mrec: the connector which came with the spindle has to be soldered
10:24 AM unterhaus: I didn't hear any sirens, so I wonder why the power went out
11:23 AM * JT-Shop just ordered a PM1500 bandsaw
11:24 AM Tom_L: looks like a decent one
11:24 AM JT-Shop: yup, I'll get rid of the rikon when it shows up
11:25 AM JT-Shop: crap I tried to install a lib for f engrave and synaptic is doing a full update...
11:26 AM JT-Shop: I hope it doesn't break the pc
11:27 AM roycroft: since i finally got a flattish table for my jet bandsaw i've been really happy with it
11:27 AM roycroft: i looked at rikon when i bought this one, but i don't remember exactly why i decided against it
11:28 AM JT-Shop: the rikon fence sucks and it's a pia to setup with their "tool less" guide rollers
11:28 AM roycroft: i've been meaning to buy a rikon machine, but the right one never seems to be there when i need it
11:28 AM roycroft: the jet fence is less than ideal, but i've never seen a bandsaw fence that i like
11:28 AM roycroft: the jet fence is very similar to the aftermarket fence i put on my old grizzly
11:29 AM roycroft: i'm just happy to have moved up from a cast iron machine to a steel one
11:29 AM roycroft: with modern features, such as a blade detensioner lever
11:30 AM roycroft: i still have the grizzly bandsaw - i really ought to sell it this spring and get it out of my very crowded shop
11:30 AM roycroft: i started getting it ready to sell but never finished that up
11:31 AM roycroft: i converted it back to 125v, because that's what most folks want
11:31 AM roycroft: maybe i should put the original motor back on it - i had upgraded from 3/4hp to 1.5hp
11:32 AM roycroft: with the voltage lowered the old motor will work better for folks who don't have a 20a circuit near the saw
11:34 AM JT-Shop: the PM1500 is 3HP 1Ph
11:34 AM roycroft: nice - that should be good for resawing
11:35 AM JT-Shop: yup
11:35 AM * JT-Shop thinks it's time to build a fire in the shop
11:35 AM roycroft: my jet is 1-3/4hp, and so far it's been just fine
11:36 AM roycroft: i resawed some 10+" jatoba, which is a very hard wood, and it cut like butter
11:36 AM roycroft: with a woodslicer blade, of course
11:36 AM Tom_L: overcast but no rain yet
11:36 AM roycroft: sunny here today, and a high of 17
11:36 AM roycroft: but then the rain returns
11:38 AM JT-Shop: the 3/4" wood slicer blade was very hard to get setup on the rikon
11:38 AM JT-Shop: the PM1500 takes up to a 1" blade
11:38 AM roycroft: it was fine on my jet
11:40 AM roycroft: the pm1500 looks like a really good saw
11:40 AM roycroft: but it costs more than 2x what i paid for my jet
11:40 AM roycroft: and is too tall for my shop
11:40 AM roycroft: the latter being the bigger concern
11:41 AM roycroft: the jet was even too tall for my shop, but it comes on a stand
11:41 AM roycroft: i built a shorter stand for it and it fits fine now
11:42 AM roycroft: and has the added advantage of lowering the table a couple inches, whish really helps when resawing
11:44 AM c101horse8332[m]: my mill is getting 1kw servo's. they've been ordered today through work and cost me a couple OT hours
11:45 AM JT-Shop: you must have a short shop, the PM1500 is just shy of 7' tall
11:45 AM * travis_farmer[m] has a short shop... 6'-5"
11:45 AM Tom_L: how wide is the blade?
11:45 AM JT-Shop: 1/8" to 1"
11:48 AM roycroft: i need to be able to roll machines out through the garage door
11:48 AM roycroft: which is fairly low
11:49 AM JT-Shop: ah, yeah they can be pretty low for a standard door
11:49 AM Tom_L: he teaches shop to the neighbor kids.. need outside access to machines
11:51 AM travis_farmer[m]: Tom_L: roycroft does?
11:51 AM Tom_L: highly doubtful.. just messin with him
11:52 AM travis_farmer[m]: oh, and here i was going to praise him for getting the youth interested ;-)
11:53 AM JT-Shop: roflmao
11:54 AM Tom_L: maybe a gun safety course would be more in order
11:57 AM * JT-Shop wanders inside for a nap
12:00 PM * Tom_L 2nds that
12:01 PM * travis_farmer[m] has been napping far too much...
12:09 PM unterhaus: speaking of shop safety, I was checking to see that my cut was lined up on the tablesaw when the power went out
12:10 PM unterhaus: it had crossed my mind that what I was doing wasn't super-safe since the blade was moving
12:10 PM roguish[m]1: unterhaus: yeah, don
12:11 PM roguish[m]1: don't touch a spinning blade. it hurts, a lot. personal experience here......
12:11 PM unterhaus: My hand was nowhere near the blade, but who knows what's going to happen when you startle like that
12:20 PM Loetmichel: roguish[m]1: indeed. Been there. Done that. Luckily an aluminium blade with a negative rake it was only a "road rash" and not some cut off fingers.
12:21 PM unterhaus: I know someone who lost a finger to a tablesaw and wished he didn't have it sewn back on
12:21 PM unterhaus: he previously had a shaper accident that took him forever to recover from
12:21 PM unterhaus: I would give up woodworking
12:22 PM roycroft: if the power goes off while you're using a sawstop the blade stop feature isn't going to work
12:23 PM roycroft: i think the best thing to do is make sure the power doesn't go off while you're using the machine
01:34 PM unterhaus: everyone knows I control the power company
01:34 PM unterhaus: I'm surprised more people don't show up at my door complaining about it
01:43 PM roguish[m]1: Loetmichel: heh, I didn't loose any fingers either. but it was a good, very sharp carbide blade. just macerated the tips of two fingers. half a dozen stiches in each. was very lucky. taught me a super valuable lesson. worst part was sitting in the ER for like 2 hours before seeing a doc. they wouldn't even give me an aspirin for the pain......
01:44 PM roycroft: it's not a matter of controlling the power company
01:44 PM roycroft: it's about dependence on the power company
01:45 PM roguish[m]1: doesn't JT have a Sawstop?
01:45 PM roguish[m]1: i'm envious
01:47 PM roycroft: i think he does
01:48 PM roycroft: i've pondered getting one
01:48 PM roycroft: it's on my list, but well down the list at this point
01:51 PM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
01:54 PM unterhaus: roycroft, you're off-grid?
01:54 PM unterhaus: tbh, I'm glad the machines stop running when the lights go off
01:55 PM unterhaus: I could be like the Anabaptist woodworkers around here that use generators
01:57 PM unterhaus: then they hire a non-believer to buy gas for the generators
02:18 PM roycroft: i hope the non-believer is furnishing them with the sweet blue flame of clean burning propane
02:20 PM JT-Shop: another router lost in space in Memphis
02:21 PM JT-Shop: it's been in transit since monday at 4am... it's only 2.5 hours to Memphis
02:21 PM roycroft: maybe the router stopped off for some of the world's best bbq
02:22 PM JT-Shop: it would have to go to Horn Lake to get the best bbq in the universe
02:23 PM roycroft: yeah, but that's right next door to memphis
02:27 PM JT-Shop: yup
02:30 PM unterhaus: I'm not sure what tech they use for their generators. The locals aren't particularly tech-oriented, it's pretty common to see a phone out by the road in a shack
02:32 PM unterhaus: I wonder if they can get land line service anymore though since verizon quit
02:35 PM JT-Shop: Looks like the replacement router for the lost replacement router FedEx tracking 395867840690 is lost in Memphis just like the first one FedEx tracking 395289235432. Is FedEx eating the routers in Memphis? Maybe the router went to Horn Lake Ms for some BBQ, that's what I would do?
02:35 PM JT-Shop: my support ticket lol
02:37 PM unterhaus: my experience is that if a company has this much trouble with a shipper, the company is at fault, not the shipper
02:37 PM JT-Shop: looks like both routers did not arrive at the fedex hub like the cable did
02:37 PM unterhaus: as much as I dislike fedex
02:45 PM unterhaus: I feel like this guy wants to be skunkworks when he grows up https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqA3zcavhGW/?
02:51 PM roycroft: did your bbq taste remotely like router, perchance?
02:55 PM roycroft: the new laser engraver is grbl-based
02:55 PM roycroft: and it has wifi, which is great - once i get it on the network i won't have to tether a computer to it
03:08 PM * JT[m] uploaded an image: (291KiB) < https://libera.ems.host/_matrix/media/v3/download/matrix.org/HPvLzywZdJcrVZakDnqSwJha/20230321_150701.jpg >
03:09 PM JT-Shop: I wonder if there is a way to make the engraving stand out before I put more T&T on it
03:12 PM skunkworks[m]: When dad did a few signs - he would spray with clear laquer - then spray the writing with black paint and wipe the access off.
03:13 PM skunkworks[m]: probably not what you want
03:13 PM Tom_L: i used paint on my pendant lettering
03:13 PM Tom_L: colored epoxy or something..
03:14 PM Tom_L: carefully drip some stained T&T in it... practice first
03:14 PM Tom_L: we used to get powdered & concentrated stains
03:15 PM Tom_L: inlay some brass plate you carefully cnc'd out :)
03:16 PM JT-Shop: I do have some brass things
03:18 PM Tom_L: or just engrave a round brass plate and mount it there
03:18 PM Tom_L: although the deed is done now
03:19 PM JT-Shop: well a brass plate 2" in diameter would cover it up
03:24 PM unterhaus: what is T&T?
03:26 PM Tom_L: tried & true finish
03:27 PM roycroft: i would seal it with shellac first, then infill the engraving with paint or other colored filler, then apply t&t over that
03:27 PM roycroft: similar to what skunkworks said, but i like working with shellac better than with lacquer
03:27 PM Tom_L: depends on the look you're going for
03:28 PM unterhaus: so it's blo and wax
03:28 PM JT-Shop: just seal the machined part?
03:28 PM travis_farmer[m]: what about filling the engraved part with inlace?
03:28 PM JT-Shop: https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/varnish-oil/
03:28 PM roycroft: i'd seal the entire bottom
03:28 PM roycroft: the shellac seal would prevent any paint/dye from bleeding into the non-engraved part
03:29 PM JT-Shop: everything but the machined circle and engraving is covered with T&T now
03:29 PM JT-Shop: ok
03:29 PM JT-Shop: I think I'll do a practice part :)
03:30 PM roycroft: depending on what you use for infilling the engraving, after the infull cures you can wipe the bottom with ethanol to remove the shellac and then you can apply t&t as usual and it will look just like the rest
03:30 PM JT-Shop: what would you use for the infilling?
03:30 PM travis_farmer[m]: inlace
03:30 PM roycroft: i would probably not use epoxy :)
03:30 PM roycroft: a thick enamel paint would be good
03:31 PM roycroft: sealing wax would work well, but you would not be able to do the alcohol wipe-down after if you used that
03:31 PM JT-Shop: I might go to hobby lobby and see what they have
03:31 PM unterhaus: they spell melange funny on the label
03:31 PM roycroft: testor's model paint would work fine, if you don't mind paying $4 for a bottle you can barely fit the tip of your brush into
03:32 PM unterhaus: tamera paints are pretty good
03:32 PM unterhaus: hobby shops around here go out of business too fast
03:32 PM JT-Shop: damn nasty day here today
03:33 PM roycroft: if you infill with enamel you can just sand the circle after to level it and then use the t&t
03:33 PM unterhaus: I guess we get that weather on thursday
03:33 PM roycroft: then you won't have to do the alcohol wipe or anything
03:33 PM unterhaus: you don't think l'huile will melt the enamel?
03:34 PM travis_farmer[m]: nobody likes my ideas, i guess :-(
03:34 PM Tom_L: i just put paint on this and wiped the excess off but you can't do that on wood: http://tom-itx.no-ip.biz:81/~webpage/cnc/pendant/pendant2.jpg
03:34 PM Tom_L: you could do that on brass
03:34 PM Tom_L: or a color
03:35 PM unterhaus: travis, you don't want to try to convince a committee of woodworkers that all use the same finish to change
03:35 PM roycroft: it's a bit late to do inlay, since the engraving is done already and was not planned for inlay
03:35 PM unterhaus: I don't think I've ever heard of it before. Or if I saw it in the store I disregarded it right away
03:36 PM JT-Shop: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Metallic-Red-Enamel-Paint/p/153250
03:36 PM JT-Shop: https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Metallic-Gold-Testors-Enamel-Paint/p/994
03:37 PM roycroft: oh, inlace is a trade name
03:37 PM roycroft: it's basically epoxy
03:38 PM roycroft: that could work, if that's the look you want
03:38 PM roycroft: i'd still seal with shellac (or lacquer) first
03:38 PM JT-Shop: I just want the engraving to be a bit more visible
03:39 PM roycroft: my concern about epoxy in this case is that it's already engraved with a v-groove cutter
03:39 PM roycroft: that doesn't leave a good surface for the epoxy to grab onto
03:39 PM Tom_L: bury an led & button battery in the wood and pour clear plastic in it
03:39 PM Tom_L: :)
03:39 PM roycroft: a good epoxy infill would be slightly undercut
03:40 PM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
03:40 PM JT-Shop: one thing good is I don't have a lot of time invested in the bottom yet :)
03:40 PM roycroft: i'd paint it and be done with it
03:41 PM JT-Shop: and everyone was amazed with the photos of the two bowls
03:41 PM unterhaus: stewmac is pushing Machiche wood for fingerboards
03:41 PM roycroft: that would be the quickest and easiest thing to do
03:41 PM roycroft: are they selling it for ONE MILLION DOLLARS, as they like to price everything there?
03:41 PM Tom_L: roycroft, that doesn't sound like JT though
03:41 PM unterhaus: alternate name for Machiche is Black Cabbagebark
03:42 PM unterhaus: $8 for a fingerboard, which is good for them
03:42 PM roycroft: jt is pretty practical, and if quick and easy yields good results, why not?
03:42 PM unterhaus: I want to do an experiment breaking headstocks, need cheap necks
03:42 PM JT-Shop: so shellac then enamel then wipe with alcohol then T&T
03:43 PM JT-Shop: yup
03:43 PM Tom_L: sounds like a plan
03:43 PM roycroft: well, if you're going to use enamel, it's going to be a little messy around the edges
03:43 PM roycroft: so i would do the shellac, then enamel, then sand to clean up, and after that the alcohol rub is not necessary
03:43 PM roycroft: just t&t
03:43 PM JT-Shop: ok
03:44 PM roycroft: there are 100 ways to do this, of course
03:44 PM JT-Shop: yup
03:44 PM roycroft: but that, i think, would work well
03:44 PM unterhaus: as someone already said, practice first
03:44 PM roycroft: or
03:44 PM JT-Shop: I'll make a test piece tomorrow
03:44 PM roycroft: go buy yourself a laser engraver, rout out a circular recess in the bottom of the bowl, get a shiny brass disc the size of the recess, and engrave the brass disc with the laser :)
03:45 PM roycroft: and while i'm not a fan of lacquer, that would be an application for lacquer - over the brass, to keep it shiny
03:45 PM JT-Shop: hmm I don't have to get one Revere has one...
03:45 PM Tom_L: i knew a guy that had a bridgeport? Pentagraph he did plaques with and he would wipe color in the lettering alot of times
03:46 PM JT-Shop: I wonder if I have a brass disk 2" in diameter
03:46 PM roycroft: i was looking for an excuse to spend more of your money
03:46 PM roycroft: because i'm good at that
03:46 PM JT-Shop: sorry, I can use the one at revere free
03:46 PM JT-Shop: but I like that idea the best
03:46 PM Tom_L: test on alum if you don't
03:47 PM roycroft: oh, if you decide to do the enamel thing, use dewaxed shellac
03:47 PM unterhaus: the local makerspace seems to have a decent laser, but I still haven't made it over there
03:48 PM JT-Shop: I have a 2" diameter chunk of some kind of brass
03:48 PM roycroft: speaking of t&t, i need to go give my spice jar rack a final wipedown
03:49 PM Tom_L: https://www.ebay.com/itm/185516703715 or such
03:50 PM * travis_farmer[m] is apparently having a severe depression day... :-(
03:51 PM Tom_L: copper might be atractive too https://www.ebay.com/itm/185516679424
03:52 PM CaptHindsight[m]: travis_farmer: get out and get some air and sun, being in here just aggravates depression
03:52 PM JT-Shop: I have a stick of 360 brass 2" x 3/16" I can cut into a circle
03:53 PM roycroft: i would consider using bronze
03:53 PM roycroft: i find it a very attractive metal
03:54 PM roycroft: copper is attractive too, but it's pretty gummy to work with
03:54 PM Tom_L: a little harder metal but yes
03:54 PM roycroft: although it might laser engrave nicely
03:54 PM unterhaus: I had seasonal affective disorder and going outside works well for that
03:54 PM unterhaus: but most people don't have SAD
03:55 PM Tom_L: http://tom-itx.no-ip.biz:81/~webpage/cnc/Brass_cup/Brass_bar1.jpg
03:55 PM Tom_L: i found those blank cutoffs at the scrap one day
03:55 PM unterhaus: SAD is not a good thing to have if you are named "basement"
03:58 PM * JT[m] uploaded an image: (207KiB) < https://libera.ems.host/_matrix/media/v3/download/matrix.org/OeZSQEtXsANvxIthLcfxEUPs/20230321_155711.jpg >
03:58 PM Tom_L: maybe you should engrave it first?
03:59 PM Tom_L: you know.. invest more time in it before you scrap it cutting off
03:59 PM JT-Shop: I could engrave that before I cut the disk off
03:59 PM Tom_L: may be easier to hold
03:59 PM JT-Shop: yup
04:00 PM Tom_L: also get fancy and arc the names with the date centered
04:01 PM Tom_L: http://tom-itx.no-ip.biz:81/~webpage/cnc/pendant/pendant2.jpg
04:01 PM Tom_L: i had limited fonts but the arrows & top txt were arc'd
04:02 PM Tom_L: you don't like it, you can always face it off
04:03 PM JT-Shop: I might put some CS holes for some tiny brass screws and screw it to the base then engrave it...
04:03 PM Tom_L: how flat is it?
04:04 PM Tom_L: txt may not come out as even
04:08 PM JT-Shop: the rod?
04:08 PM Tom_L: no the wood
04:08 PM * JT[m] uploaded an image: (136KiB) < https://libera.ems.host/_matrix/media/v3/download/matrix.org/QPdGFqJFIqvqlxksGQfQKpLU/20230321_160736.jpg >
04:08 PM Tom_L: if you engrave it after mounting
04:09 PM JT-Shop: oh I machined the 2" circle in the wood
04:09 PM Tom_L: ok
04:09 PM Tom_L: doesn't take much to make txt look 'off'
04:11 PM Tom_L: also, how thick is the wood? make sure the screws don't poke thru
04:11 PM JT-Shop: I just looked and the wenge doesn't take engraving well so I'll machine the hole a bit deeper for the brass inlay
04:13 PM travis_farmer[m]: if you engrave in brass or copper, i would use chemical antique for the engraved part, and then polish the face after
04:16 PM JT-Shop: got a link?
04:17 PM travis_farmer[m]: me?
04:17 PM roycroft: an antiquing patina could be a nice effect
04:18 PM Tom_L: https://surfinchemical.com/products/k-74-antique
04:18 PM roycroft: especially with darker wood - shiny polished brass may be a bit much if the wood is ark
04:18 PM roycroft: dark
04:18 PM Tom_L: it's going to be hidden most of it's life
04:18 PM roycroft: yes
04:18 PM roycroft: well hopefully
04:19 PM Tom_L: https://www.wikihow.com/Antique-Brass
04:20 PM Tom_L: gawd.. skip that one
04:20 PM Tom_L: it does say: Any type of household vinegar or even table salt in water can be used to antique brass.
04:21 PM JT-Shop: I wish I had a good probe...
04:21 PM XXCoder: didnt there process that uses both for certain style of antiqing
04:22 PM XXCoder: probably https://youtu.be/pkHM213b7d8
04:23 PM Tom_L: https://jaxchemical.com/shop/jax-brown-black/
04:24 PM XXCoder: one guy comments that he had to lightly sand it to remove lacquer first
04:24 PM Tom_L: i've heard of that company before but never used their stuff
04:24 PM roycroft: or you can hop in your time machine, go back to 1927, make the engraved plate then, and then mail it to yourself with instructions not to open it until 2023
04:24 PM XXCoder: "JAX products never expire, however, they can deteriorate over time if not cared for properly."
04:24 PM roycroft: it will have a nice natural patina that way
04:25 PM roycroft: if you do it that way you'll have to hand-engrave it though, since cnc gravers won't have been invented yet
04:25 PM XXCoder: or give it to 80 year old guy at 60 years ago so guy has it for 60 years for constant use and wear lol
04:26 PM travis_farmer[m]: kinda the effect i was thinking, patina engraving, with clean face. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTHBq3t_kNSHVXxylrQP_L2s4LEbl3y3Dtprg&usqp=CAU
04:26 PM Tom_L: take it to the US mint and let them put their faces on it as well
04:26 PM XXCoder: oh other comment says you can just boil brass in hot water to remove protective coating
04:26 PM XXCoder: no sanding needed
04:26 PM XXCoder: nice to know.
04:27 PM Thorhian7490[m]: Doesn’t that depend on the coating type?
04:27 PM XXCoder: oops I had misread it
04:27 PM XXCoder: " I have found that I can remove lacquered brass coatings by boiling the vinegar in a pot with a lid, no salt required, and it will come off by itself. I have left it in the solution and reboiled several days over 4-5 days, and find extraordinary rust build up on the items (hinges and drawer pulls) and a simple rinse in come water took all that of, revealing the brass underneath in an aged way. I also have the verdigris look on other brass items because
04:27 PM XXCoder: I'm told that the copper in brass has started to disintegrate from the acid"
04:28 PM JT-Shop: note to self, touch off the tool before you drop the keyboard
04:29 PM travis_farmer[m]: ouch?
04:31 PM roycroft: i'd be more concerned about the lead that is still present in most brass
04:33 PM mits[m]: Does anyone have a use case for enabling individual axis?
04:33 PM JT-Shop: rapid the engraving bit into the brass... which means the head needs to be trammed
04:33 PM mits[m]: I'm not too concerned about this, but I'm curious if there is a use case for having X Y Z having individual enable signals... apart from just logical seperation
04:34 PM XXCoder: roycroft: yeah though theres bunch of alloys that dont have lead nowdays too
04:35 PM XXCoder: and alum brass forgot exact name of that
04:41 PM IG_Kevin0751[m] is now known as Kevin90990751[m]
04:46 PM Tom_L: mits[m], the important thing is if you have a use case for it
04:46 PM mits[m]: I don't
04:46 PM mits[m]: but I like asking these questions to find out if I'm missing out on something
04:46 PM rmu: is there a standard way to get (from g-code) if machine is setup in metric or imperial units? I don't mean G20/G21, that doesn't tell "native" machine units
04:46 PM Tom_L: maybe we would just keep it a secret anyway
04:47 PM Tom_L: rmu, i have 2 post processors, one for each system
04:48 PM Tom_L: and i doubt the machine would care but would need to be told what it's cutting
04:48 PM rmu: i can query the ini file
04:48 PM rmu: the machine doesn't care, but a universal probing routine that could be part of linuxcnc should
04:48 PM * travis_farmer[m] signs off for the night, waiting for a KFC supper to be brought home... :-)
04:49 PM Tom_L: i would imagine the machine would output the code for which ever G20 21 is set at the time
04:50 PM Tom_L: or maybe it should
04:50 PM rmu: so suppose i have a GUI and probing routines, i specify feedrate approach height etc... and then the user issues G21 or G20 (the wrong one) and hits start
04:51 PM Tom_L: shame on him
04:51 PM rmu: then probing routine would interpret feed rate in wrong coordinates
04:51 PM Tom_L: then units should be the first thing to be established in said routine
04:52 PM rmu: so the probing should M73 at enter and then setup "known good" values, including G20/G21 as appropriate for the machine, but it seems there is no real way to know that...
04:52 PM skunkworks[m]: the probing routine would select the correct units
04:52 PM skunkworks[m]: I think you know what units it is in by a var?
04:52 PM rmu: suppose i want to install same probing routine on metric and imperial machines
04:53 PM Tom_L: check the var
04:53 PM rmu: you can find out which coordinate system is active but not how to interpret user-entered stuff
04:54 PM Tom_L: i have imported drawings into cad and it was up to me to determine the units
04:54 PM skunkworks[m]: hmm - I don't know if it is in the var file
04:55 PM Tom_L: skunkworks[m], there must be a way, axis displays the active codes
04:55 PM rmu: i have not found machine units in var file
04:55 PM rmu: they are in ini file in TRAJ section
04:56 PM skunkworks[m]: ah -
04:56 PM skunkworks[m]: #<_metric> - Return 1 if G21 is on, else 0.
04:56 PM rmu: ini file can be queried from g-code but i don't like that, there are multiple choices
04:57 PM Tom_L: https://forum.linuxcnc.org/38-general-linuxcnc-questions/28803-active-g-codes-list ..... I was using direct calls to emcStatus->task.activeGCodes[t]; etc, I imaging the python calls are just the same through the emcmodule wrapper
04:57 PM rmu: I don't care about active units, I want to set machine native units
04:58 PM Tom_L: then read the units from the ini
04:58 PM rmu: yes, will probably have to do that...
04:59 PM rmu: and check for "in", "inch", "imperial"
05:00 PM rmu: if i get feedrate for probing move from ini file, i have to know which units to use with that feedrate, regardless of active units
05:01 PM Tom_L: i think it will warrant some testing
05:13 PM * JT[m] uploaded an image: (106KiB) < https://libera.ems.host/_matrix/media/v3/download/matrix.org/dsbnNbVmYjdioffQpuzFlwkV/20230321_171204.jpg >
05:13 PM JT-Shop: that's 0.010" deep
05:13 PM JT-Shop: I might do it over and go a bit deeper
05:16 PM roycroft: infill it and see how it looks before you go deeper
05:17 PM JT-Shop: that's kinda what I'm thinking, maybe some black enamel to infill
05:17 PM XXCoder: for testing, use high temp wax
05:17 PM XXCoder: it will show what it looks like without using enamel yet I would say
05:18 PM JT-Shop: don't have any
05:18 PM JT-Shop: I can get a $3 bottle of enamel at hobby lobby tomorrow
05:18 PM XXCoder: I wonder if paint would work lol though just do sloppy job then wipe off top
05:18 PM JT-Shop: if I don't like the result then face it off...
05:18 PM Tom_L: i use what i have
05:18 PM XXCoder: that is true. $3 isnt expensive at all
05:19 PM Tom_L: just don't be tempted to get a car model while you're at HL
05:19 PM JT-Shop: na, never did build a car model
05:19 PM JT-Shop: tanks and planes yup
05:20 PM Tom_L: my grandpa got me a metal one once
05:20 PM Tom_L: wasn't much for models myself either but i did that one
05:20 PM JT-Shop: tank?
05:20 PM Tom_L: car but i don't remember what it was now
05:24 PM JT-Shop: so I wonder if amazon will use starlink sats
05:25 PM skunkworks[m]: no.
05:25 PM skunkworks[m]: they don't have any sats up yet
05:25 PM JT-Shop: ok so it will be a long time for them
05:25 PM JT-Shop: the sky is going to be busy lol
05:25 PM skunkworks[m]: probably atleast a year
05:30 PM Tom_L: phew..
05:32 PM DOS[m] is now known as Bing[m]
05:49 PM JT-Shop: https://libera.ems.host/_matrix/media/v3/download/matrix.org/xXxAnTSsuoJiKimcJKOQNdcz/image.png
05:52 PM skunkworks[m]: nice!
05:56 PM JT-Shop: Lcvette[m], made it
06:04 PM skunkworks[m]: well - then it sucks.. 😉
06:04 PM JT-Shop: lol
06:24 PM JT-Shop: say goodnight Gracie
06:27 PM Tom_L: what's it for?
09:03 PM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
09:47 PM Tom_L: wow.. 81°F tomorrow
09:48 PM XXCoder: pretty hot
09:53 PM roycroft: i just had a delicious thai curry
09:53 PM roycroft: i seem to make curry 4-5 times/year, and every time i wonder why i don't make it more often
09:53 PM roycroft: it's always delicious and quick to make
10:30 PM XXCoder: lol
11:58 PM mrec: ok finally received the manual for the BD612 it's really only available in chinese the guy put together a list of settings that has to be applied
11:59 PM mrec: as yesterday, the company behind it seems to be Zhejiang New Folinn Electric Co. Ltd; the VFD however says Fuling