Apr 25 2021
12:30 AM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
12:55 AM net|: "Among all the machines, the pulley is the most egotistical. It’s always at the center of a tension."
01:01 AM Deejay: moin
03:33 AM miss0r2: I have an issue I need a solution to. I have a 25x25x2 mm square stainless tube. On the center of this I want to add a hinge of sorts. This stainless tube is supported at either end, but the two ends can rest in two positions, one where the stainless tube is bend at an unknown angle and does not have to support any weight and one where the stainless tube is stretched into a straight line - in this position the
03:33 AM miss0r2: tube has to support around 100kgs on top of the hinged position.
03:33 AM miss0r2: the hinge allows it to 'hinge' in the horisontal plane, whereas the load it is under is in the vertical plane
03:33 AM miss0r2: also, the distance from the 'center' hinge to the two hinged ends, is aprox 350mm to each side
03:33 AM miss0r2: I was thinking something along the lines of: https://www.minitecframing.com/Products/Hinges_Links/Hinges_Links_Catalog_Pages.html/Hinges_Links_Catalog_Images/21.2034_Heavy_Duty_Hinge_L.jpg but I would not be able to fit any bigger than a 11mm center pin, otherwise the hinge will loose its strength because of no material left after adding the bronze bushing.
03:33 AM * miss0r2 realy needs some input :D
05:22 AM JT-Cave: morning
05:23 AM XXCoder: welps jt is on, time for me to go to bed lol night
06:22 AM JT-Cave: miss0r2, I would put a leg under that joint... that's pretty small tubing to hold 100kgs
06:26 AM Tom_L: morning
07:14 AM miss0r2: JT-Cave: I know...
07:15 AM miss0r2: and that is the second option, putting a retractable leg under there. But the number one solution, would be that arm there to support it
09:29 AM veegee: DIY pocket calipers: cheap regular 6" calipers + angle grinder
09:29 AM veegee: The vast majority of the time, I don't need more than 5cm range
09:30 AM veegee: the little button that converts between metric and decimal inches and fractional inches is incredibly handy
09:30 AM veegee: Guessing bolt sizes is so damn annoying. I need to make flash cards or something to train myself to guess the right bolt head size the first time
09:32 AM jymmmm: Morning
09:33 AM sensille: veegee: i learned that it's easy to train your fingers to detect the correct size than your eyes
09:34 AM sensille: *I have been taught
09:38 AM veegee: sensille really? That would be awesome. How'd you do it?
09:39 AM veegee: Fingers are exceptionally sensitive when detecting differences between things, but your brain has to do a lot of work to associate it with absolute size
09:50 AM sensille: i never dedicated myself to learn that, but the carpenter in the shop i worked decades ago claimed to use that all the time
09:51 AM sensille: it definitely feels possible for metric sizes
09:57 AM Tom_L: hi jymmmm
11:31 AM unterhaus_: enleth, did you say you got rid of the vari-speed on your bridgeport?
11:33 AM drdoc: miss0r2: what JT-Cave said. Even without the middle break, that tubing is marginal
11:42 AM roycroft: i'm pretty good at sizing fastners by eye, but it took a while to get good at it
11:43 AM roycroft: i can even distinguish between m6 and 1/4" screws most of the time
11:43 AM roycroft: 5/16" and m8 are impossible to sort out by eye, of course
11:44 AM Tom_L: http://tom-itx.no-ip.biz:81/~webpage/temp/thread1.jpg
11:44 AM Tom_L: what size is that fastener?
11:44 AM Tom_L: you can usually tell metric from english threads
11:44 AM drdoc: 3/4"-89
11:44 AM drdoc: 3/4"-8
11:44 AM unterhaus_: I don't guess fastener sizes, I bought a nut and bolt thread checker
11:44 AM roycroft: that is impossible to tell
11:44 AM Tom_L: sometimes i mess up on fine threads
11:44 AM Tom_L: i've got thread gages as well
11:44 AM drdoc: ASSuming that's a 1" grid
11:45 AM Tom_L: 1.5" x 3
11:45 AM roycroft: i have one too, unterhaus_
11:45 AM roycroft: i don't use it all that often though
11:45 AM drdoc: Tom_L: then it's not a 1" grid
11:45 AM unterhaus_: sometime it's obvious, like I can tell 1/4-20 from 1/4-28 etc
11:45 AM Tom_L: not unless i'm really not sure do i need one
11:45 AM Tom_L: 2"
11:46 AM drdoc: then 1.5"-3
11:46 AM drdoc: :-p
11:46 AM roycroft: tom_l: a 5/16-18 screw has almost the same thread pitch as an m8-1.25 screw
11:46 AM roycroft: the difference in diameters is <0.003"
11:47 AM roycroft: and a 1.25mm thread pitch is ~20tpi
11:47 AM Tom_L: until you start to thread one into the other :)
11:47 AM Tom_L: then you know something is wrong
11:47 AM roycroft: actually, even when you start to thread one into the other it works
11:47 AM Tom_L: up to a point
11:47 AM roycroft: it's after about 3 threads where you find trouble
11:47 AM drdoc: what kills me is metric tapered thread
11:47 AM Tom_L: yup
11:48 AM roycroft: depending on the tolerance of the respective threads
11:48 AM roycroft: cheap hardware store stuff you may get 4-5 threads before it sticks
11:48 AM drdoc: chinesium M8 screws work fine with 5/16-18 locknuts
11:49 AM drdoc: Once.
11:49 AM roycroft: speaking of threads, i did something yesterday that i did not expect would work, but it ended up working brilliantly
11:49 AM roycroft: i have an aluminium stop block for a woodworking fixture
11:49 AM Tom_L: most hardware threads are 2A or 2B
11:49 AM roycroft: i needed to modify it
11:50 AM roycroft: it has some slots in it that are 1/4" wide, and i needed to attach fasteners at the base of the slots
11:50 AM roycroft: i ended up putting it on the mill, and bored some 3/8" holes with an end mill
11:51 AM roycroft: and installed some brass threaded inserts that were made for use in hardwoods
11:51 AM roycroft: i was surprised that they went in as well as they did
11:52 AM roycroft: on both of them, i broke off my intallation tool (a hardened shcs) before they were fully seated, but i got at least 2/3 of each insert installed, which was fine
11:52 AM roycroft: i just leveled them with a face cutter after they were installed as far as they would go
11:53 AM roycroft: i really did not think they would go in
11:53 AM roycroft: i was devising plan b while attempting the impossible plan a
11:54 AM Tom_L: you can get different H tolerance taps too
11:55 AM Tom_L: most are probably H2
11:55 AM Tom_L: i've never worried with that that much
11:55 AM roycroft: if you need precision threads, that's what a single point tool is for
11:56 AM Tom_L: alot of production shops will buy the precision taps
11:56 AM roycroft: yes, in a production shop that would make more sense
11:56 AM roycroft: but in a job shop it may or may not
11:57 AM Tom_L: single point are definitely more versatile
11:58 AM Tom_L: on that 1.5" x 8 thread i did, i started tight and adjusted the helix for a nice fit
11:58 AM Tom_L: that aluminum plug i tested it with, my friend made for me since he's got external thread mics
11:59 AM Tom_L: i really didn't wanna spend $$$ for a thread gage for one part
12:03 PM veegee: https://www.bimba.com/en/detail/hvp I think I'll get this so I don't have to deal with oil. 0.999 bar is pretty damn good
12:08 PM roycroft: clickspring really pisses me off sometimes, i have to say
12:08 PM roycroft: i have all this work to do, and then i stumble across his rope knurling videos again, and i need to make some knurled thumbscrews for some projects
12:08 PM roycroft: now he has me thinking i should make rope knurling tools, and that is just another huge time sink
12:09 PM roycroft: although a very fun one, other than figuring out how to tilt my rotary head to 30 degrees
12:43 PM enleth: unterhaus_: yes, replaced it with a 1:1 v-belt and VFD
12:44 PM unterhaus_: enleth, was it straightforward?
12:45 PM unterhaus_: I was thinking about putting a servo motor on mine
12:45 PM unterhaus_: have a 2hp servomotor, which is probably better than the induction motor on it now
12:46 PM enleth: in my case, no, it wasn't, because of damage done to the shafts by the pulley halves running canted over due to wear
12:47 PM enleth: but it would be if your machine is in better condition
12:48 PM enleth: ideally, it's as simple as pulling varispeed pulleys off (other than the lower front half which is also the brake drum) and installing two taperlock v-belt pulleys
12:49 PM enleth: as for the new motor, you'll probably need to make a shaft extension
12:52 PM unterhaus_: it's a plain shaft with a keyway?
12:53 PM enleth: yes
12:54 PM enleth: but it's only supported by the motor
12:54 PM enleth: which makes it dificult if your servo only has a stubby shaft
12:55 PM unterhaus_: I meant the spindle
12:55 PM enleth: then, yes, it is
12:55 PM unterhaus_: never thought about the shaft on the motor being an issue
12:56 PM enleth: well, the original one is really long
12:56 PM enleth: which is not typical
12:56 PM unterhaus_: no
12:56 PM unterhaus_: I would have to make a mount somehow, maybe I can compensate with that
12:57 PM enleth: it is possible to replace the sheet metal cover above the motor with a plate and mount a bearing in it
12:57 PM enleth: so you'd get end support for the extension
01:00 PM enleth: also, while you're in there, inspect the lower bearing housing for the front shaft for looseness
01:00 PM enleth: it was wollered out on mine, had to make a new one
01:01 PM enleth: it's replaceable, not a part of the casting
01:01 PM enleth: take a look at dog clutch teeth, too
01:02 PM unterhaus_: what's a dog clutch?
01:03 PM pcw_home: A small purse for a dog?
01:03 PM enleth: the clutch that engagesbfor 1st gear, to couple the varispeed assembly with the spindle
01:03 PM unterhaus_: okay
01:04 PM unterhaus_: I wonder if never moving any of this stuff leads to more or less wear
01:04 PM unterhaus_: because I think this machine was made to make one operation over and over
01:04 PM enleth: it wears out rapidly if the operator has a habit if punching the machine out of 2nd gear without waiting for it to stop
01:05 PM enleth: the teeth were almost gone on mine, idiot operators at the previous owner
01:05 PM unterhaus_: could you do that with the cnc versions with a pneumatic actuator on that?
01:06 PM unterhaus_: was there a button?
01:06 PM unterhaus_: my control was totally gutted when I got it
01:06 PM enleth: it's a lever on the right side of the head
01:07 PM enleth: I'm pretty sure it is manually operated on every version of the mill
01:10 PM enleth: the mechanism is spring loaded so you only need to flick the lever to make it snap back to 1st gear instantly, but if you do that with the spindle still not fully stopped, the two halves of the clutch are slammed together while *counter*rotating
01:10 PM unterhaus_: I was thinking of the spindle brake for tightening tool holders
01:11 PM unterhaus_: which is probably abused a lot too
01:11 PM enleth: that's the lever on the left side, it might or might not be equipped with an air actuator on your machine
01:11 PM enleth: it's abuse-proof, it's just a drum brake
01:12 PM unterhaus_: It had a pneumatic cylinder, I'm thinking of getting a handle from a manual machine
01:12 PM enleth: just make one
01:12 PM enleth: the original one won't fit anyway
01:12 PM unterhaus_: getting rid of the varispeed would make it so I don't need air
01:13 PM unterhaus_: the way I do things, I probably will just wrap it with duct tape
01:13 PM enleth: you can replace the air motor with a small handwheel
01:13 PM enleth: manual bridgeports do that
01:14 PM unterhaus_: never taken the motor off to look
01:16 PM enleth: as for the dog clutch teeth: normally, repairing them requires a weldup and a second milling machine or hours of filing them down
01:17 PM enleth: but I figured out a better way
01:19 PM enleth: had the whole set of teeth lasercut as a unit and tack welded them in with TIG
01:19 PM enleth: that way they're the right shape immediately and the clutch has a super tight fit
01:20 PM enleth: with very little effort
01:38 PM enleth: unterhaus_: oh, one more thing - did you get the service manual with the machine?
01:47 PM unterhaus_: I have a parts breakdown, not sure if it's a service manual or not
01:48 PM unterhaus_: Just saw it the other day, I was thinking I need to put it in the docs pocket in the cabinet
01:55 PM enleth: I'll send you a link later then, I scanned the thing
01:55 PM enleth: unterhaus_: how much actually works on that mill right now?
01:55 PM unterhaus_: nothing, really
01:55 PM unterhaus_: but if I wired up my vfd I could spin the spindle
01:56 PM unterhaus_: I have moved the axes and then I blew up all my servo drives
01:56 PM enleth: is this a model with mechanical handwheels and axis brakes?
01:57 PM unterhaus_: no, it was all motorized, box ways
01:57 PM unterhaus_: manual knee
01:57 PM enleth: ah, that one
01:57 PM enleth: ok, so not identical to mine
01:58 PM unterhaus_: no. the head looks the same though
01:58 PM enleth: ok, so you'll still have a use for the manual
01:58 PM unterhaus_: that's the most important part
01:58 PM veegee: Damn, these milton G style couplers are impossible to connect under pressure
01:59 PM enleth: there's a bunch of nice fold-out cutaway drawings in it
01:59 PM unterhaus_: that sounds useful
01:59 PM enleth: and a step-by-step procedure for pullibg the Z ballscrew out for cleaning
02:00 PM enleth: which is a bitch to pull out
02:00 PM veegee: I have to add a valve before the pressure side coupler so I can shut off pressure before coupling/uncoupling
02:01 PM enleth: veegee: what's the matter with them still naking those? I've had officially chinese $5 couplers that operate smoothly both ways under full pressure
02:01 PM veegee: enleth these are 1/2" G style couplers
02:02 PM veegee: not the shitty little 1/4" industrial ones
02:02 PM veegee: the V style couplers are perfect for 1/4" applications. They connect/disconnect under pressure perfectly fine and are much higher flow than the industrial style
02:04 PM enleth: ah, right
02:04 PM enleth: still, this looks like a solvable issue
02:05 PM enleth: but maybe I'm spoiled by the ISO F hydraulic couplungs
02:05 PM enleth: flat face on both sides, go in under hundreds or bars
02:06 PM enleth: this is vastly more difficult to achieve foe incompressible medium
02:07 PM veegee: enleth https://www.princessauto.com/en/flat-face-hydraulic-quick-coupler-tips/product/PA1000000741?skuId=8350753 this kind right?
02:08 PM enleth: yep
02:08 PM enleth: the female side is flat face as well
02:09 PM veegee: Yeah they're super expensive but I'm going to switch to those
02:09 PM veegee: Are they safe to disconnect under pressure?
02:09 PM enleth: so there's a bunch of telescoping rings and plugs that need to move inwards without trying to compress the fluid behind
02:09 PM enleth: yes
02:09 PM veegee: ok awesome
02:10 PM veegee: Would be perfect for my new hydraulic power pack
02:10 PM enleth: that's what I'm using them for
02:11 PM enleth: the only issue with disconnecting them under pressure is that as soon as the locking mechanism lets go, they pop out with considerable force while closing sealed
02:12 PM enleth: so you need to grab them securely and don't let your knuckles get in the way
02:12 PM veegee: Not a big deal for me
02:16 PM enleth: I'm also using the small 1/4" ones for a coolant refrigerator that can be used for the CO2 laser cutter or water cooled TIG torch
02:22 PM roycroft: hello, folks
02:22 PM CaptHindsight: princessauto.com looks like it carries lots of good stuff as well as crap like HF
02:22 PM CaptHindsight: whereas HF is mostly crap
02:23 PM roycroft: i'm revisiting projects that i need to complete but have been put on hold for various reasons, and mounting my 4 jaw chuck on my 12x36 lathe is really high on the list
02:23 PM roycroft: as it is the holdup of several other projects
02:23 PM roycroft: my problem is that i do not have a mounting plate for it, and it's a really odd size
02:24 PM roycroft: it's a threaded spindle, and iirc the thread size is m36x8tpi
02:24 PM roycroft: it is definitely a hybrid, with a metric diameter and a us customary thread pitch
02:24 PM roycroft: so i'm going to need to buy a chunk of cast iron and make a mounting plate
02:25 PM roycroft: first a question - is the register surface the shoulder of the spindle, or the spindle shaft behind the threads?
02:25 PM roycroft: i'm pretty sure it's the shoulder
02:25 PM CaptHindsight: the brass versions all leaked for me https://www.harborfreight.com/brass-industrial-quick-coupler-set-4-pc-68241.html
02:25 PM roycroft: second, i currently have no way of mounting the cast iron bar - my 3 jaw chuck does not open nearly wide enough
02:26 PM roycroft: i'm thinking i might get a faceplate for the lathe, which could come in handy for other things, turn a small mount to mount the face plate in the 3 jaw, mount the cast iron blank to that, and turn the back side and the bore/threads with it mounted that way
02:27 PM roycroft: then i'd flip it around, install the new chuck mount directly on the spindle, and turn the front and outer diameter that way
02:27 PM roycroft: does that seem feasible?
02:27 PM roycroft: or would the first mount be to wonky?
02:28 PM roycroft: i did turn and thread a shaft to match the spindle, so i could do some test fits of the bore and threads without removing the mounting plate from the fixture
02:29 PM * roycroft figures the chunk of cast iron will cost him close to $100, and wants to succeed on the first go
02:30 PM roycroft: a collet chuck will follow shortly after the 4-jaw is finally mounted, but that's a whole different conversation
02:42 PM roycroft: the spindle thread is actually m60x8tpi
02:43 PM Tom_L: good thing to learn single point on :)
02:44 PM Tom_L: i'd say the flat is behind the threads
02:45 PM Tom_L: visual may be in order
02:46 PM CaptHindsight: new OrangePi CNC firmware https://gitlab.com/orangecnc see repos with _plus names.
02:49 PM unterhaus_: Cap'n, what hardware do you use with the orangepi?
02:50 PM roycroft: https://roycroft.us/Spindle-Nose.pdf
02:50 PM unterhaus_: I see, direct connect to steppers
02:50 PM CaptHindsight: unterhaus_: IO's are like a *duino
02:50 PM roycroft: that's the drawing i made when i first started working on this project
02:51 PM CaptHindsight: unterhaus_: so it just needs some protection against noise and spikes etc
02:51 PM enleth: unterhaus_: https://owncloud.hackerspace.pl/index.php/s/YxLzOP8Go3ar6sb#pdfviewer
02:52 PM enleth: unterhaus_: section VIII, starting at page 54, is what you want
02:52 PM roycroft: i'm thinking the register surface is perpendicular to the axis
02:53 PM roycroft: the shoulder that lines up with the left side of the 2.0040" dimension
02:54 PM roycroft: my 3 jaw mounting plate spins right up to that shoulder
02:54 PM enleth: roycroft: definitely the shoulder
02:54 PM enleth: roycroft: the procedure you described sounds reasonable
02:55 PM enleth: it doesn't matter that much how you machine the back side of the adapter as long as it threads on and registers on the shoulder
02:55 PM roycroft: so i need to machine that surface + the bore and thread without moving the part
02:55 PM Tom_L: roycroft, yup
02:55 PM roycroft: is my idea for mounting the thing workable or crazy?
02:55 PM enleth: the normal, proper way to machine adapter plates is to form the bare minimum of features that let them be attached to the spindle
02:56 PM enleth: then attach it and do the rest
02:56 PM Tom_L: another mounting plate can't be had?
02:56 PM roycroft: yes
02:56 PM roycroft: if you can find a mounting plate that has an m60x8tpi thread, please let me know
02:56 PM roycroft: it's a pretty crazy thread
02:56 PM Tom_L: so it's unanimous on how to machine it
02:57 PM enleth: roycroft: you are probably fine drilling a few mounting holes into the adapter that will not do anything in the final product but won't interfere with its use either
02:57 PM CaptHindsight: unterhaus_: Remora works with a Smoothieboard or clone https://forum.linuxcnc.org/18-computer/42276-remora-rpi-software-stepping-using-external-microcontroller-via-spi
02:57 PM enleth: roycroft: you can do that on a drill press or whatever
02:57 PM roycroft: right
02:57 PM enleth: and use those holes to mount the blank to the faceplate
02:57 PM roycroft: i'll need some spacers to hold the part off of the backing plate
02:57 PM roycroft: er, faceplate
02:58 PM roycroft: so that i can bore all the way through
02:58 PM roycroft: actually, not necessarily
02:58 PM enleth: straps from a strap clamp set will be fine
02:58 PM roycroft: i can do a blind bore/blind thread
02:58 PM roycroft: because i'll be facing off the other side anyway
02:58 PM Tom_L: shars has them up to M36
02:58 PM Tom_L: 39 excuse me
03:00 PM roycroft: it may be possible to purchase one of those and bore it out larger
03:00 PM roycroft: but i'd still have the mounting issue
03:01 PM roycroft: and i'm not sure that plate is thick enough
03:02 PM roycroft: i don't want the spindle nose protruding through the front of the back plate
03:02 PM enleth: roycroft: there's one more way to mount large stuff without a faceplate, it's kinda iffy but works
03:02 PM roycroft: how's that?
03:02 PM Tom_L: roycroft, you might scan thru this: http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=92427&start=15
03:02 PM enleth: roycroft: have you noticed that the tracks that lathe chuck jaws run in are shaped kinda like T-slots?
03:03 PM roycroft: i was also thinking about boring a precise hole on the mill, and then turning it between centers to get a shoulder that i could chuck up in the 3 jaw
03:03 PM Tom_L: My Jet 12x36 is also 60mm X 8TPI....
03:03 PM enleth: roycroft: so you can find or make T-nuts that fit, pull the jaws off and use the chuck body as a fixture plate
03:03 PM roycroft: hmm
03:04 PM enleth: just make sure you always have the material you're clamping in contact with the face or use some sort of spacers with holes in them
03:04 PM enleth: so you don't rip out the edges of the tracks
03:04 PM enleth: they were not made to work as T-slots
03:04 PM -!- #linuxcnc mode set to +v by ChanServ
03:04 PM enleth: as long as the edges are clamped from both sides, they'll be fine
03:04 PM roycroft: thanks, tom_l
03:05 PM roycroft: that confirms that i measured my spindle accurately, for starters
03:05 PM roycroft: i've always questioned that, because who the hell ever cuts m60x8tpi threads in anything?
03:07 PM roycroft: enleth: i could potentially mount a face plate to the 3 jaw that way, and mount the new back plate blank to the face plate
03:07 PM roycroft: the 4 jaw chuck is bigger than my 3 jaw
03:08 PM enleth: roycroft: something like that should work, yes
03:09 PM roycroft: that would probably be a more rigid mount than making a mount for the face plate that i would just clamp in the 3 jaw
03:09 PM roycroft: and it doesn't need to be mounted concentrically, of course
03:10 PM roycroft: nothing here does, for the initial work
03:10 PM roycroft: for a 6" diameter back plate i'd get a chunk of 6.25" cast iron, and mount it as concentrically as quickly bumping it around facilitates
03:11 PM enleth: yep, sounds about right
03:11 PM roycroft: that article you linked to also confirms that the shoulder is the register surface
03:11 PM roycroft: as well, it has a picture of my lathe
03:13 PM Tom_L: good luck finding a thread gauge
03:13 PM Tom_L: :)
03:14 PM roycroft: huh?
03:14 PM Tom_L: how do you plan to test the fit?
03:14 PM roycroft: i turned a copy of the spindle
03:14 PM roycroft: well
03:14 PM roycroft: the spindle nose - the important part
03:15 PM Tom_L: and the thread is good?
03:15 PM roycroft: yes
03:15 PM Tom_L: you're all set then
03:15 PM Tom_L: that's how i did that odd thread
03:15 PM roycroft: measured over wires my copy is the same as the lathe spindle
03:15 PM Tom_L: http://tom-itx.no-ip.biz:81/~webpage/rue/extinguisher_nut/Pressure_test_cap8.jpg
03:16 PM roycroft: and my 3 jaw chuck threads into the copy just fine
03:16 PM roycroft: so i think that's good
03:16 PM Tom_L: sounds like it
03:16 PM roycroft: and fortunately, this is for a 4 jaw chuck, so if it's not quite perfect it will still work fine
03:17 PM roycroft: as long as it registers in the same position every time
03:18 PM roycroft: that article also shows someone using a barbell weight as the back plate
03:18 PM roycroft: i've been looking for years and have not found a barbell plate thick enough to do that
03:18 PM roycroft: my spindle nose is pretty long
03:25 PM XXCoder: scary dumb https://youtu.be/GmlXzd0NSDc
03:29 PM Tom_L: i got no room for stupid
03:29 PM Tom_L: ruined 2 good hammers someone could have used on his head
03:30 PM XXCoder: yeah
03:30 PM CaptHindsight: stupid is like ice cream, there is always more room for it
03:30 PM XXCoder: lol
03:30 PM Tom_L: doesn't leave the same taste in your mouth
03:31 PM CaptHindsight: Tom_L: how is the mill after the new spindle? Would you do anything different if you built it again?
03:32 PM CaptHindsight: spindle/motor
03:32 PM Tom_L: i'd like a heavier spindle with a tool changer but for what it is, i'm very happy
03:33 PM Tom_L: i wish i knew more about PID tuning and could get it a tiny bit more responsive when it encounters a quick load
03:34 PM Tom_L: the VFD has it's own tuning that i really don't want to mess with and i've got a PID loop for the analog signal to it
03:35 PM Tom_L: as far as the motor upgrade, i'm satisfied. it runs cool on cuts i wouldn't be able to do with the old motor
03:37 PM XXCoder: nice indeed
03:38 PM XXCoder: love it when plan goes together well
03:39 PM JT-Shop: hmm what did I come in here for?
03:39 PM XXCoder: the hammers video? ;)
03:40 PM Tom_L: naw, don't waste your bandwidth
03:40 PM XXCoder: yeah its just stupid
03:42 PM Rab: Stupidly awesome! Why didn't anyone invent a two-handed hammer before?
03:43 PM Tom_L: it may have been more awesome if it flew out of the lathe and hit him after it fused together
03:43 PM Rab: ...Those chuck jaws might never be the same, and don't look cheap.
03:46 PM XXCoder: rab yeah
03:50 PM unterhaus_: Tom_L, feedforward?
03:52 PM roycroft: that was one of my first thoughts, rab
03:52 PM Tom_L: setp pid.0.Igain 1.8
03:52 PM Tom_L: setp pid.0.FF0 .75
03:52 PM Tom_L: setp pid.0.FF1 .75
03:52 PM roycroft: a lot of heat right next to those jaws
03:53 PM Tom_L: that's what seemed to work best so far
03:53 PM Tom_L: no Pgain
03:53 PM Tom_L: or D
03:53 PM Tom_L: was worse with P
03:53 PM JT-Shop: I have seen a 3 handled hammer...
03:53 PM JT-Shop: watched Roy Underhill make it
03:54 PM Tom_L: JT-Shop, did you get much from that lakeshore yt?
04:03 PM enleth: Tom_L: actually, you should be messing with the VFD's PID
04:03 PM enleth: just note down the default settings
04:08 PM JT-Shop: I didn't watch it this morning busy relocating all my Mesa Configuration Tools documents
04:09 PM JT-Shop: travis-ci.org is shutting down so I quit using them to put my docs on github pages
04:32 PM Bleepshop: I hope I don't break this thing. I just enabled the existing update repos in synaptic to get ghostscript and a couple of other goodies.
04:39 PM Tom_L: enleth, if i knew more about it i might
04:39 PM Tom_L: one of these days i may give it a go
07:19 PM Bleepshop: Anybody got a toolpath generator that works vector instead of raster? I want to make a sign quickly.
07:20 PM CaptHindsight: Bleepshop: you are starting with a vector graphic and want to generate toolpaths for carving?
07:20 PM Bleepshop: pycam has bombed do to a lask of something on every system I've tried it on.
07:20 PM Bleepshop: lack
07:21 PM CaptHindsight: inkscape, https://www.scorchworks.com/index.html or camotics
07:22 PM Bleepshop: I've got an image I'v got as .png .svg .ps and the .png ends up as a shitload of excess moves/cuts to cut a border and 3 lines of text. LOL
07:23 PM CaptHindsight: yeah you have to know how to simplify it and just cut the laths you want
07:23 PM CaptHindsight: laths/paths
07:23 PM CaptHindsight: https://www.scorchworks.com/Fengrave/fengrave.html
07:24 PM Bleepshop: Oh! Dirt cheap and easy Z-probe pads. Grab a roll of the aluminum ductwork tape and cut off squares. the glue on hte back insulates it fine to just stick to my metal table.
07:26 PM Bleepshop: Fold one edge or corner over to grab it with an aligator clip and stick it to whatever/whereever.
07:27 PM Bleepshop: I have a bunch of old banana plugs, sockets and binding posts so I just added the pair of sockets to the head and the Z-probe plugs right in.
08:26 PM CaptHindsight: survey question: How long do your cordless drills run with NO Load? with fully charged battery
08:27 PM Rab: Do people test that?
08:30 PM CaptHindsight: manufacturers don't post any useful comparison specs
08:35 PM CaptHindsight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyJ4idYtONM
08:39 PM CaptHindsight: Rab: a handy comparison for me would be how many 1/4-20 or M5-0.8 holes can you tap between charges in pre-drilled t-slot
08:40 PM Rab: CaptHindsight, cut tap or roll tap?
08:41 PM CaptHindsight: hand tap, cut
08:42 PM Rab: I believe I have seen drill reviews which include some kind of real-world performance metric, but it always seems pretty informal. E.g. "I used this for an afternoon of drywalling and only changed the pack once."
08:43 PM CaptHindsight: consumers could use some standard test, number of 1/4" holes drilled through 1/4" thick A36
08:44 PM Rab: I guess a real test would hook up the drill to e.g. an RC dyno, but it would need to run on a partial duty cycle to account for thermal issues and battery rebound.
08:44 PM CaptHindsight: ^^ video above used a few different test, 3/16 holes in concrete, drywall with hole saw 2" etc
08:52 PM CaptHindsight: this vid does a no load full run https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2szflBzicM 16 minute mark
10:07 PM Tom_L: ok so i went thru the parameter list for the vfd and wrote down the defaults. given were P1-0 thru P1-14, however the parameter list goes to P1-34 which i wrote down all the numbers for even though i don't know what they do
10:07 PM Tom_L: it would be nice to have a complete list of functions
10:07 PM Tom_L: even though they are not likely user parameters
10:09 PM Tom_L: the manual i got said default KP was 1520 but it was actually set to 300 and KI default was 320 and was actually set to 100
10:10 PM Tom_L: so obviously the vendor has changed a few of them and not mentioned that
11:26 PM veegee: I bought a used oven but made a bonehead move during transportation and ended up shattering the front glass
11:27 PM veegee: It's for powder coating/heat treating purposes
11:28 PM veegee: So I'm thinking about rebuilding the door and creating a vacuum for insulation
11:28 PM veegee: Not sure if they're vacuum insulated at the factory
11:31 PM veegee: I don't really need a glass door for seeing inside. I don't mind it being opaque. I'm thinking just sheet metal with a few supports inside to prevent the vacuum from collapsing it
11:41 PM roycroft: a mica window would look nice
11:57 PM CaptHindsight: they wont hold a vacuum
11:58 PM CaptHindsight: you'd have to do some welding and add some bracing to keep it from collapsing
11:58 PM CaptHindsight: you'd be better off starting with a safe
11:58 PM XXCoder: bracing or creative structural folding
11:58 PM XXCoder: but yeah easier to build entire case but you can use oven for poarts anyway
11:59 PM CaptHindsight: concrete and fire brick, electric vacuum oven