#linuxcnc Logs

Apr 23 2020

01:03 AM kyle_again: ah that's interesting, guess I didn't consider that was a possibility
01:09 AM kyle_again: figured the aluminum housing ones were just ubiquitous because that's the only kind
01:09 AM kyle_again: actually kinda surprised that would use steppers, though
01:09 AM kyle_again: oh on that note, I'm on the lookout for some cheaper incremental encoders to use on my 3D printer's 8mm leadscrews
01:09 AM kyle_again: oh wow, these are available now: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ams/AS5047P-TS_EK_AB/AS5047P-TS_EK_AB-ND/5452344
01:09 AM kyle_again: last time I looked at them they didn't have eval boards or dev kits available without registration with them and some crazy price iirc
01:15 AM kyle_again: pretty sure I'd have to desolder that stupid jumper header though, you're supposed to have the magnet within 2000 micrometers of the case
01:15 AM kyle_again: who the heck designed this board
01:21 AM sensille: why a rotary encoder on a leadscrew?
01:22 AM kyle_again: peace of mind I suppose
01:22 AM kyle_again: don't wanna worry so much about losing steps throwing off a 3 hour long print
01:22 AM kyle_again: could probably get by just fine with only X and Y
01:23 AM kyle_again: I mention the leadscrew just because the 8mm lead matters if anyone had something in mind already, I guess
01:26 AM sensille: ah, lost step detection. for that a very cheap encoder should do, though
01:29 AM sensille: well, depends if you want to detect mechanically lost steps or lost step commands to the driver
01:30 AM kyle_again: well, I want hands off printing so I was thinking a full closed loop setup
01:30 AM sensille: what would you use as a controller?
01:31 AM sensille: i want to try closed loop an x/y with a linear encoder
01:31 AM sensille: s/an/on
01:36 AM kyle_again: that is a mighty good question
01:36 AM kyle_again: right now I'm using some chinesium smoothieboard knockoff
01:37 AM kyle_again: I think it has some pins for SPI so I can probably get something working using modified marlin firmware
01:52 AM Deejay: moin
03:05 AM Loetmichel: *MAAAN* "harbor freight" tools... Coworker just came out of the shop: "The Drill press is smoking!" ... No, it wasnt the Motor. the Idler in between the two V-belts has a steel pin on cast iron pulley bearing. no grease whatsoever and of course not grease zerg. Would it be SO expensive to have two 10mm ball bearings on that idler? :-(
03:06 AM XXCoder: if company can save 0.01 cent of course they would
03:33 AM Loetmichel: XXCoder: not exactly harborfreight. but same "quality". http://www.cyrom.org/palbum/main.php?g2_itemId=13495&g2_imageViewsIndex=1
03:33 AM Loetmichel: the gray one on the back (right picture)
03:34 AM XXCoder: i see someone added auto-retract
03:34 AM Loetmichel: no, spring broke
03:34 AM XXCoder: oh
03:36 AM Loetmichel: it HAD retract at some time
03:36 AM XXCoder: yeah
03:37 AM Loetmichel: noticed the allen key as motor tensioner? ;)
03:38 AM XXCoder: where?
03:39 AM XXCoder: interesting https://youtu.be/_ybjFqJ1UT0
03:40 AM Loetmichel: where the retrackt rubber is hooked to ;)
03:40 AM XXCoder: its so blurry it looks like regular handle set bolt
03:40 AM Loetmichel: lost the original pin somewhere along the line ;)
03:40 AM Loetmichel: no, not the bolt
03:41 AM Loetmichel: the "push rod" is an allen key
03:41 AM XXCoder: i think I see a bar
03:41 AM XXCoder: yeah I see rest of it now
03:42 AM Loetmichel: yeah, sorry for my stoneage "potato" cam and low light
03:42 AM XXCoder: np
05:06 AM jthornton: morning
05:35 AM veegee: So far I'm really loving TIG welding
05:36 AM veegee: But I've ruined a gas lens. Going to start with cheap collet bodies and the pink cups
05:36 AM veegee: I keep getting spatter which then contaminates the tungsten and goes up into the cup and clogs and ruins the gas lens
05:37 AM veegee: But I get that spatter only sometimes. Not sure what's causing it. Maybe dirty workpiece?
05:37 AM jthornton: yea
05:37 AM jthornton: the metal must be clean
05:37 AM veegee: Either way, going to practice with long cups instead of stubby ones to reduce the amount of spatter that goes up into the cup
05:38 AM veegee: And water cooled torch is so much better than gas cooled. Night and day difference
05:38 AM * jthornton has never seen spatter when tig welding
05:38 AM veegee: Looks like even mill scale isn't allowed
05:39 AM veegee: it's spatter + porosity that I get and I think it's only when I'm going over the part of the metal that I haven't cleaned with a flap disc
05:39 AM jthornton: yea you can't tig on crap it must be clean metal
05:40 AM SpeedEvil: First buy 100l of acetone.
05:41 AM veegee: I have acetone
05:41 AM veegee: Angle grinder and flap disc is enough. I just didn't think I had to get the mill scale off too
05:42 AM veegee: I've been practicing stick welding with all types of rods for like 2 weeks straight, so this is completely different
05:42 AM veegee: I didn't clean anything at all for stick and it turned out fine every time
05:43 AM jthornton: you have to clean for any weld to be good, stick just looks good over scale
05:43 AM veegee: The 6010 rods penetrate real well
05:43 AM syyl: you want to remove millscale for every weldprocess
05:43 AM veegee: I did several tests by cutting and got perfect penetration even through mill scale
05:44 AM veegee: But yeah I should clean it either way
05:44 AM veegee: I'll just run a face mill over the steel plates that I'm practicing on. That should take care of it
05:45 AM veegee: 6010 + "arc force" setting to maintain constant power really lets you gouge that rod right into the joint
05:46 AM veegee: It goes right through rust and paint and oil perfectly
05:47 AM veegee: I bought this machine, got a discount on it: https://www.everlastwelders.ca/products/tigwelders.php/powertig-325ext.php
05:48 AM veegee: Absolutely love it. I measured the current output with a Fluke 376 clamp meter and it's accurate throughout the entire range. The cheap chinese crap I got on amazon to test is off by 50 Amps
05:49 AM SpeedEvil: syyl: for stick, not really so much in many cases
05:49 AM syyl: well, it helps in any case
05:49 AM syyl: i found that with welding, every bit of prepwork will show in the final result
05:50 AM SpeedEvil: Oh yeah
05:50 AM SpeedEvil: Nice bright shiny clean metal is always better
05:50 AM syyl: there will be times when i weld over dirty, zink plated steel with stick
05:50 AM syyl: but i am not proud of it
05:50 AM syyl: ;-)
05:50 AM SpeedEvil: Zinc is a different issue
05:51 AM syyl: well, it messes with the weld AND with you
05:52 AM veegee: well I remove any zinc plating, don't want that in your lungs
05:52 AM veegee: But stick welding is _really_ forgiving of dirty base metal, even the 7018 rods. That's my experience anyway
05:53 AM veegee: I always checked by cutting with a chop saw to make sure I got full penetration
05:53 AM SpeedEvil: then weld it back up after you check it.
05:54 AM veegee: But damn, TIG gets expensive fast. Stick is so awesome in its own way
05:54 AM veegee: torches, torch parts, consumables, gas, water cooler, clean metal, etc.
05:55 AM SpeedEvil: At least with clean metal, you don't need to pay for dirt
05:57 AM veegee: By the way, I'm going to get an actual good welding helmet. Any recommendations? I'm deciding between a Lincoln Viking 3350, 3250D FGS, Optrel Crystal 2.0, 3M 9100FX
06:32 AM Loetmichel: veegee: stick welding is fine. just not for thin sheet metal
06:32 AM Loetmichel: under about 0,6mm it gets a bit ugly with stick
06:32 AM Loetmichel: 0.8mm sheet steel is already a challenge