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[00:39:01] <Crom> I was tryng to make drag chain on the laser cutter.. it was cheaper and easier to order it from ebay
[00:39:59] <Crom> I paid $12 for a meter of 15x30mm used $30 worth of plywood trying to make some
[00:40:45] <FloppyDisk525> Ugh - drag chain is so cheap from china or ebay, amazes me...
[00:40:51] <Crom> this was before air assist though...
[00:42:55] <Crom> gonna redo the drag chain on the laser cutter down the road... it's one length doing x & Y and at x=0 and y=330 it's pulling to hard
[00:46:09] <Crom> x=0 & Y=0 it's good, x=330 & y=220 it's good too end is connected at roughly x=0,y=240
[00:46:41] <Crom> s/x=0 and y=330/x=330 and y=0/
[02:14:29] <_abc_> .
[02:15:41] <_abc_> linuxcnc machine tangent question: Are 6mm i.d. metric ball bearings really rare or am I bad at searching? Found only 4 kinds after some googling. 626 636 686 696 . In theory the numbers in between also exist but are not easily found.
[02:16:34] <_abc_> Also these tend to be rare for some reason. I need 6mm id ones or I need to turn down a sizeable length of a 6mm arbor to get the bearings where I need them. Does anyone have any more xx6 numbers for bearings or some other system where one can search?
[02:17:12] <_abc_> Also, is there an imperial bearing which could be shimmed in place? Slighty larger, like 0.1 to 0.3 maximum larger? This is a slow arbor and it's acceptable for the bearings to be shimmed in place.
[02:25:34] <Deejay> moin
[03:07:24] <Demure_> Goood morning! Yesterday some people recommended I get some lithium grease, I had cleaned rusty parts and was wondering how to keep the rust out of the freshly cleaned surfaces.
[03:07:41] <Demure_> Now I had them lay in towels and warm at night and just went to the home depot shop nearby, no lithium grease.
[03:08:02] <Demure_> I bought classic WD-40 and a PTFE spray from Griffon which says to be for machines under load.
[03:08:07] <Demure_> Would either be acceptable?
[03:11:34] <archivist> there are a number of rust preventative oils and waxes
[03:11:57] <archivist> wd and similar work but must be maintained
[03:12:49] <archivist> grease can be ok some better that others
[03:13:59] <Demure_> What about the PTFE spray? What do you use?
[03:16:06] <archivist> ptfe is not a rust preventative as far as I know
[03:16:58] <Demure_> Ok, thanks
[03:17:04] <archivist> also depends what the parts are as to how I protect them
[03:17:56] <Demure_> Vice and toolholders
[03:17:59] <gonzo_> cloth can absorb moisture. So may not be ideal if there is damp air.
[03:19:23] <gonzo_> I wipe over with generic engine oil. As it's thick enough to stick to surfaces
[03:20:08] <Demure_> Thanks, I guess I'll just wipe it with WD40 for now then.
[03:20:22] <gonzo_> and it's easy enough to wipe the collected muck off after use and recoat
[03:20:42] <_abc_> WD40 is a bad idea, petroleum jelly might work.
[03:21:36] <_abc_> PJ can be dissolved and made more fluid with a small amount of kerosene, which will evaporate and leave the thickened pj where it belongs
[03:22:05] <_abc_> wd40 tends to vanish leaving no traces within a few days at most
[03:22:12] <_abc_> It is too volatile for preservation.
[03:23:00] <Demure_> I see, thanks.
[03:23:28] <_abc_> pj / vaseline should be available everywhere, at worst, in a pharmacy.
[03:23:29] <archivist> best is controlled storage conditions, temperature and humidity
[03:23:38] <_abc_> Yeah, right.
[03:24:02] <_abc_> Because we all have dry Nitrogen bagging facilities archivist ;)
[03:24:04] <_abc_> brb
[03:24:14] <archivist> museums also use microcrystaline wax
[03:25:06] <Demure_> At the museum I work at we just store everything at 13 degrees and dehumidify the fuck out of it :')
[03:25:07] <archivist> no need for nitrogen, stable temp stable humidity means no condensation
[03:27:00] <archivist> stuff used by clockmakers
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-200/dp/B0015F2GEM
[03:29:52] <archivist> seems that type was originally developed at the British Museum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microcrystalline_wax
[03:30:31] <_abc_> clocks are not made of untreated iron/steel parts afaik
[03:31:05] <archivist> define untreated
[03:31:33] <_abc_> dry N2 + silica gel packs + conformal vacuumed hermetic bagging + special oil on parts is what is used for longer term storage. As opposed to temporary treatment for preservation between one factory and another.
[03:31:55] <_abc_> N2 means actually low O2 air tbh but some things are really bagged with N2 from a cylinder
[03:32:07] <archivist> seems you dont work at a clockmakers
[03:32:37] <_abc_> archivist: untreated: without and surface coating or finishing such as paint, special oil or lacquer, varnish, bluing or other chemical surface treatment.
[03:32:49] <_abc_> archivist: I do not.
[03:32:57] <archivist> plenty is untreated
[03:33:37] <archivist> polishing is a treatment used
[03:33:46] <_abc_> I don't know. What kind of steel is used for spindles in mechanical clocks? They run in brass plates and carry brass wheels but what material is it?
[03:34:30] <archivist> a normal steel, in the old days wrought iron, some gets case hardened
[03:34:32] <_abc_> Yes polishing leaves some coating of the polish on the treated parts too. Usually the carrier wax. Easily seen by heating the parts, they will smoke briefly although the wax is undetectable.
[03:35:05] <archivist> actually the polishing pemoves the dimples where rust starts
[03:35:11] <archivist> removes
[03:35:36] <archivist> so its not the residue, it is the shine
[03:35:36] <_abc_> That too. But unless the parts are burned after polishing to get rid of the polish carrier completely some of it will be on them.
[03:35:39] <Demure_> So Vaseline is the same as pj or?
[03:35:43] <_abc_> Demure_: yes!
[03:35:53] <_abc_> Demure_: just make sure it is pure vaseline and has no additives
[03:36:05] <Demure_> Ok,good to know, thanks.
[03:36:07] <_abc_> Demure_: some pharmacy ones will have glycerine and other things in them
[03:36:16] <archivist> see also lanolin as a rust preventer
[03:36:26] <_abc_> lanolin? Haha. Leave them sheeps alone ;)
[03:36:54] <archivist> free from the wool washing department
[03:37:14] <_abc_> Demure_: vaseline is a trademarked name for pj / high carbon alkanes of some sorts.
[03:39:19] <archivist> microcrystaline wax being derived from pj
[03:40:43] <Demure_> Ahh I see. I have some pure vaseline here, so that's good news. No kerosene, could use denatured alcohol instead?
[03:41:03] <_abc_> archivist: say some stories of old old old parts packed in pj and brown wax paper. How old did you find that were rust free and usable? I found some spare gears which were from the 1950s like that once.
[03:41:18] <_abc_> Demure_: try WD40. Denatured alcohol is not to be used.
[03:41:33] <Demure_> Ok, thanks.
[03:42:04] <archivist> some I have unwrapped were rusty, but many ok
[03:42:35] <_abc_> archivist: do you think it was because of uneven covering with pj?
[03:43:01] <archivist> or the stuff in the paper dried out and useless
[03:43:25] <_abc_> Getting petrified pj off is not a nice job.
[03:44:45] <_abc_> https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090813192927AASb1zc also known for this use
[03:45:14] <_abc_> " Petroleum jelly has water in it (moisture = rust = bad for ur gun)." and I am Santa Claus.
[03:47:29] <_abc_> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline etc
[03:49:43] <Demure_> Thanks for the help, now to start the tedious process of coating everything :')
[03:50:15] <archivist> dehumidify, less work
[03:50:39] <Demure_> What do you mean?
[03:52:08] <archivist> http://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/cd10l/electriq-cd10l-dehumidifier?refsource=Apadwords&gclid=CLGhucrD9c8CFckaGwodanwL9A
[03:52:23] <Demure_> Ah, no time for that now I'm afraid
[03:52:28] <Demure_> Just got to do it with what I have
[03:52:50] <archivist> or use passive/chemical dehumidifiers
[03:52:55] <Demure_> If I use a small piece of cloth to wipe the parts, will a small film remain or?
[03:53:18] <archivist> it can
[03:53:40] <archivist> it may leave uncovered patches
[03:54:22] <archivist> also make sure you dont have acid fingers
[03:54:32] <Demure_> I'll use gloves.
[03:54:42] <Demure_> Will cold bluing the parts help against rust?
[03:54:57] <_abc_> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Silica-Gel-Crystals-1.5-lb-Tub/24547309 +
https://www.walmart.com/c/kp/vacuum-bags
[03:55:31] <_abc_> Demure_: you can use a cloth but you will miss bits or you can thin it with WD40 and use a brush and miss less
[03:56:00] <archivist> http://www.sciforums.com/threads/what-causes-my-corrosive-sweat-and-how-can-i-counteract-it.113487/
[03:56:02] <Demure_> Ok, brush it is. Thanks.
[03:56:36] <archivist> I am lucky and dont suffer like some do
[03:57:23] <Demure_> I'll keep a look out for that, but from experience I don't think I have had that issue before.
[03:57:29] <Demure_> I have terribly dry skin, too.
[04:02:48] <_abc_> archivist: what's the best way to hold a M6 screw to turn down a part of it to 5mm for ball bearing installation? Use the split nuts method to hold it or direct 3 jaw chuck on threads?
[04:20:22] <gonzo_> load some nuts onto the threads and hold them in the chuck?
[04:20:44] <archivist> collet
[04:20:53] <gonzo_> sometimes I use some split copper pipe to fold threaded itens in the chuck
[04:21:51] <gonzo_> hold
[04:22:14] <archivist> or buy a proper bolt
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/shoulder-bolts
[04:38:17] <XXCoder> boo
[05:10:58] <Demure_> Okay, everything is now coated in PJ. :) I found one tiny spot of rust in the deepest pocket of a screwhole, but I'll give up on that one and just use the part and see if it gets worse.
[05:12:51] <XXCoder> PJ?
[05:12:59] <archivist> or paint stuff
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=new+filing+machine
[05:13:48] <XXCoder> theres also special paint that turns rust into not rust
[05:14:10] <XXCoder> used that on my heavily rusted car before. held it together for little while lol
[05:15:28] <Demure_> Petrolium Jelly
[05:15:34] <XXCoder> ahh
[05:15:59] <XXCoder> I was confused because peaut butter and jam ;) or pamaja
[05:16:09] <XXCoder> (mispelled, night sleeping clothes)
[05:16:32] <Demure_> It's a mix of all, really. I coated them in a mix of peanut butter and jelly and wraped them up in nice comfy pajamas.
[05:16:37] <Demure_> Does wonders for your toolholders.
[05:17:24] <XXCoder> lol
[05:31:11] <jthornton> morning
[05:31:36] <XXCoder> yo
[05:39:44] <jthornton> split firewood all day yesterday, my 40mm fans were sitting on the porch all day
[05:41:43] <jthornton> http://www.panucatt.com/azteeg_X5_mini_reprap_3d_printer_controller_p/ax5mini.htm
[05:41:58] <jthornton> https://www.google.com/search?q=octoprint
[05:43:36] <XXCoder> interesting
[05:43:53] <XXCoder> 32 bit?
[05:44:06] <XXCoder> ah it is
[05:44:56] <jthornton> yea and up to 40v
[05:45:24] <XXCoder> my tb660s and BOB finally arrievd :D
[05:45:32] <jthornton> yea!
[05:45:43] <jthornton> what are you using them on?
[05:45:48] <XXCoder> cnc router
[05:46:15] <jthornton> cool
[05:47:27] <XXCoder> yea
[05:47:37] <XXCoder> once I have it working I'll figure out spindle options.
[05:55:17] <jthornton> how big is the router?
[05:55:38] <XXCoder> small
[05:55:43] <XXCoder> 500mm x 300mm
[05:59:08] <jthornton> wow that is small
[05:59:38] <jthornton> I want to build a Core XY using linear rails
[06:01:02] <XXCoder> I do have set of SBRs
[06:01:06] <XXCoder> dunno what to do with em
[06:01:15] <XXCoder> and ballscrews to go with em too
[06:01:29] <jthornton> SBR?
[06:01:58] <XXCoder> supported bar rail
[06:02:06] <jthornton> ah
[06:02:15] <jthornton> first I have to make 50 of these
http://mesaus.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=80
[06:02:26] <jthornton> and some of these
http://mesaus.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=88
[06:03:35] <jthornton> sbr like these
http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-support-rails/=14qyal9
[06:04:00] <XXCoder> yeah
[06:08:16] <jthornton> with all the m codes reprap uses I guess you have to stick to either marlin or smoothie
[06:08:27] <XXCoder> pink didnt
[06:08:33] <XXCoder> she manually set temperates
[06:11:24] <jthornton> what is she using for temperature control?
[06:11:44] <XXCoder> not too sure
[06:11:54] <XXCoder> looked like some circuit system with temperate display
[06:12:02] <jthornton> you could create the M codes you need
[06:12:17] <jthornton> for fan control and stuff like that
[06:12:19] <XXCoder> she used mach3 I think
[06:12:41] <XXCoder> she just stripped some m codes from gcode from slicer, then used it
[06:12:50] <jthornton> with the trajectory planner in 2.7 you could get some great prints
[06:13:04] <XXCoder> mach?
[06:13:08] <jthornton> slic3r will output linuxcnc g code
[06:13:20] <jthornton> no linuxcnc 2.7
[06:13:26] <XXCoder> ahh
[06:13:35] <jthornton> made my plasma run 1000% better
[06:13:48] <XXCoder> frankly I'd prefer linuxcnc to run 3d printer
[06:13:55] <XXCoder> everything 3d print is so hacky
[06:15:23] <jthornton> lol
[06:15:40] <jthornton> yea, some Mesa hardware and LinuxCNC!
[06:15:51] <XXCoder> no wonder people here call em glue gun
[06:15:56] <XXCoder> frankly I agree lol
[06:16:03] <XXCoder> I got one just to have fun
[06:16:08] <jthornton> nema 23 steppers and 48v
[06:16:33] <jthornton> I got the cheap one to have fun and learn about the process
[06:17:06] <XXCoder> indeed
[06:18:27] <jthornton> I want to print this
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1312980
[06:18:33] <jthornton> when I get my fans set up
[06:19:33] <XXCoder> that thing looks cast. :P
[06:24:09] <jthornton> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1310530
[06:24:30] <XXCoder> fancy.
[06:24:40] <XXCoder> you ever find one for our crappy ramps one?
[06:24:56] <jthornton> havn't looked for one yet
[06:25:16] <XXCoder> I did, no luck so far.
[06:26:04] <jthornton> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50709
[06:26:22] <jthornton> I don't think that is exactly the right one
[06:27:34] <XXCoder> I need to print a box and lid, see how well calbrated my printer is now
[06:27:55] <XXCoder> inside/outside sizes now match but still wrong size.
[06:28:03] <XXCoder> im missing something, maybe wrong nozzle size.
[06:28:47] <jthornton> could be belt stretch, my plasma scale is not the mathematical scale due to belt stretch
[06:29:09] <XXCoder> too tight?
[06:29:44] <XXCoder> you ever finish that X belt tightner?
[06:29:57] <jthornton> as you tension the belt it grows a tiny bit so I had to adjust the scale to get the actual movement correct
[06:30:03] <jthornton> still working on fans
[06:30:34] <jthornton> I have it modeled up just need to be able to print something that big without heat creep
[06:30:40] <XXCoder> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nnlDQdwkzc&feature=youtu.be
[06:32:34] <jthornton> need a grinder for that
[06:33:04] <jthornton> a bit messy
[06:33:16] <XXCoder> there is grinder shown
[06:33:53] <jthornton> saw that
[06:34:31] <XXCoder> ugh guy skaes camera all over heh
[06:34:56] <jthornton> https://all3dp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/raspberry_pi_hero2b.jpg
[06:35:06] <XXCoder> lol
[06:35:35] <jthornton> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35438
[06:35:49] <jthornton> that still ain't the exact one I don't think
[06:35:57] <jthornton> have to wander out and look at it lol
[06:37:09] <XXCoder> lol
[06:37:45] <XXCoder> man
[06:37:54] <XXCoder> some people at thingverse obress over trump
[06:38:00] <XXCoder> make all kinds of trump crap
[06:44:06] <XXCoder> anyway
[06:44:11] <XXCoder> I love made section
[06:44:17] <XXCoder> its completely random stuff
[06:48:38] <jthornton> I think it fits our smart controller
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35438
[06:48:49] <jthornton> but it needs to mount to the 2020
[06:49:00] <jthornton> and have the ramps on the back side
[06:49:03] <XXCoder> display only it looks like
[06:52:22] <XXCoder> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:536097 nice
[06:52:59] <jthornton> just need some whiskers around it
[06:53:11] <XXCoder> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:536091 52mm version
[06:53:40] <XXCoder> did you see
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:262292 ?
[06:53:41] <jthornton> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1728725
[06:54:10] <XXCoder> not bad
[06:56:51] <jthornton> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:889316
[06:57:20] <XXCoder> lol yeah rather buy off amazon. so cheap thjere :P
[06:58:32] <jthornton> https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Chain-Carrier-Router/dp/B00880AVL2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1477394971&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+chain
[06:58:38] <jthornton> $10
[06:58:55] <XXCoder> yep
[06:59:13] <jthornton> could make custom ends for the cable chain
[06:59:22] <XXCoder> thats all needed really
[07:09:52] <jthornton> using LinuxCNC you can home the Z axis to independent home switches to auto square it every time
[07:10:17] <XXCoder> yea
[07:10:25] <XXCoder> btw i have inductor switches here :D
[07:10:35] <jthornton> hook it up yet?
[07:10:36] <XXCoder> cant wait for resistors to arrive so I can try it
[07:10:46] <XXCoder> not yet
[07:10:53] <jthornton> I'll have to quiz pink_vampire how she handles the heaters
[07:11:27] <pink_vampire> someone call me/
[07:11:28] <pink_vampire> ?
[07:11:32] <XXCoder> yep
[07:11:47] <jthornton> XXCoder: said you are doing 3d printing with LinuxCNC?
[07:11:56] <XXCoder> no mach3
[07:12:00] <pink_vampire> with mach3
[07:12:02] <jthornton> how are you handling the heaters
[07:12:05] <pink_vampire> same thing
[07:12:15] <jthornton> except LinuxCNC is better lol
[07:12:53] <jthornton> anyhow how do you control the heaters?
[07:20:40] <jthornton> http://www.reprap.org/wiki/EmcRepStrap
[07:21:36] <pink_vampire> I have a pid controller
[07:22:06] <jthornton> you just set the temperature in it manually?
[07:22:12] <pink_vampire> yes
[07:22:47] <jthornton> that is probably the simplest solution
[07:23:38] <pink_vampire> yes
[07:23:53] <pink_vampire> it is work pretty good
[07:27:49] <jthornton> do you use Slic3r to create the g code?
[07:30:50] <jthornton> looks like Slic3r outputs some bad M codes for LinuxCNC M84 for one
[07:36:53] <jthornton> fixed that one now to create some dummy M codes
[07:50:04] <pink_vampire> yes
[07:50:27] <pink_vampire> just remove all the mcodes
[07:51:28] <jthornton> did you configure the A axis as linear?
[08:07:56] <pink_vampire> I've just add the extruder as my 4th axis
[08:08:22] <pink_vampire> and change the settings in slic3r to mach3
[08:08:59] <pink_vampire> "gcode flavor"
[08:09:46] <gregcnc> Demure_ Castrol DWF is supposed to be good for preserving parts
[08:10:22] <pink_vampire> it's a day time, I have to go to sleep.
[08:11:31] <Demure_> Thanks Greg. I've coated everything in petrolium jelly for now, I hope that'll do. I've kept one part uncoated that is unnecesary so I can handle it and see if it develops rust anytime soon.
[08:48:00] <witnit> Demure_: depending on how long the parts need to be stored, I usually just put cutting oil on mine. though a heavier oil may be better for longer term parts, if its in a high moisture area I put the parts in a plastic freezer bag then box the parts.
[08:48:45] <Demure_> The moisture here is not too bad, it's all inside the house, too. I hope to start cutting in a month or two so I think it'll be fine. :)
[08:49:20] <witnit> I just pulled parts off the shelf after 5 years and getting a p.o. at noon today :) these were lightly oiled and kept in a cardboard box.
[08:51:57] <witnit> I came this | | close to scrapping them a month ago and the company got back with me yesterday to see if I had 10,000 pieces on the shelf, I had 12,500. Glad I didnt scrap em!
[08:57:34] <gonzo_> all in good condx?
[09:58:35] <nubcake> hey
[09:59:49] <Jymmm> nubcake: WHAT?!
[09:59:56] <Jymmm> ;)
[10:00:08] <nubcake> uhm.. nothing Mr. Overlord Sir
[10:00:23] <nubcake> good day i mean
[10:00:25] <Jymmm> haha
[10:03:25] <nubcake> let's see if the new aluminium plate is better than the glass-bed i had on my printer :)
[10:04:00] <nubcake> looks shiny, hope it does it's job as shiny as it looks like
[10:54:17] <MacGalempsy> morning
[10:55:04] <MacGalempsy> just got a terrain model for Ouray Colorado generated and just about ready to print
[11:32:28] <MacGalempsy> well, it is printing, so we shall see how well it comes out.
[11:33:02] <Jymmm> MacGalempsy: You can help it print faster if you hold a torch over the piece ;)
[11:34:16] <MacGalempsy> Jymmm: if we build it in your newspaperbox, it would be like a heated chamber
[11:35:03] <MacGalempsy> there is a lot of relief on this model, but it was amazingly easy to convert the data from DEM to a printable model with qgis
[12:19:49] <IchGucksLive> hi
[12:34:23] <IchGucksLive> nubcake: cool miling
[12:35:19] <IchGucksLive> hi Robh__
[13:04:21] <_abc_> Hello. Is there anything to be done about dirtycow @linux patching for live dvd based linuxcnc? Is that what the title is about?
[13:11:42] <IchGucksLive> you can run the CNC mashine on the Download CD DVD
[13:11:48] <Jymmm> linuxcnc is based upon ubuntu. When ubuntu releases a patched build, I'd suspect that it would trickle down to here.
[13:12:01] <IchGucksLive> im off Gn8
[13:12:06] <_abc_> The one I use is based on wheezy
[13:12:43] <_abc_> And a fix for wheezy exists, but it is a kernel. Will someone provide a rebuilt patched wheezy kernel for the linuxcnc install ?
[13:13:58] <Jymmm> Is the kernel you speak of a "real time" kernel?
[13:14:46] <_abc_> The one provided by debian security patch releases is not rtai. Therefore, I ask, will someone provide a patched kernel for the linuxnc devbian based dvd installs?
[13:15:18] <Jymmm> Try the mailing list
[13:41:59] <hetii> Hello :)
[13:44:33] <hetii> Q: could someone tell me pros/cons to use half/Quarter/Eighth step, I have limited pinout of my IC used in my driver so need to decide before flash it with one mode it will be used at the end
[13:46:09] <cradek> more steps is usually good for smoothness of motion (note: NOT precision) but if you have too many, you can need pulses too fast for a software stepgen to supply
[13:46:17] <cradek> that's the only tradeoff I know
[13:46:29] <cradek> if you don't intend to use software stepgen, use the highest microstep setting
[13:47:17] <cradek> if you DO, do the math for your machine and figure out the highest you can get while still having a reasonable step rate
[13:49:48] <hetii> cradek, well at the end GRBL will be used to drive it, no clue yet about "stepgen"
[13:51:24] <hetii> ok I think that will use the same line step/dir and will add some bootstrap timeout where based on state of those line I will configure this microsteps
[13:53:07] <cradek> I don't know anything about grbl, but you should try to find out its maximum step rate
[13:53:39] <cradek> I always make the mistake of thinking people are asking about linuxcnc
[13:54:38] <hetii> well, I will play also with linuxcnc but then need to see if this will work,
[13:55:11] <hetii> then my plan is to use some cypress board and write firmware to it to be able use USB port instead paraller
[14:05:04] <Jymmm> hetii: If you are going thru all that, you might as well use machinekit instead of linuxnc...
http://www.machinekit.io/
[14:05:25] <Jymmm> That is a TOTALLY different project and we really have no clue on it's specifics.
[14:05:46] <Jymmm> hetii: You'll have to speak to them for any details.
[14:50:08] <terkaa> Evening
[14:51:56] <Deejay> moi
[14:52:30] <terkaa> moi moi
[15:04:58] <jdh> no moi
[15:08:52] * JT-Shop learns drum instruction for a Click
[15:10:40] <jdh> drum programmer?
[15:13:27] <Jymmm> JT-Shop: Drum? This is awesome...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-0Zv4rTp80
[15:18:14] <JT-Shop> it's an event based drum sequencer
[15:22:06] <jdh> random step choice
[15:23:13] <jdh> I had a system with a software drum programmer. only choice was 'next step'
[15:31:28] <JT-Shop> this one has a bail input
[15:40:55] <_abc_> http://www.theregister.co.uk/2016/10/23/every_lte_call_text_can_be_intercepted_blacked_out_hacker_finds/
[15:41:07] <_abc_> Sorry
[16:12:22] <hetii> hmm, If I change direction the last step should be repeated or dropped ?
[16:12:50] <_abc_> repeated in reverse
[16:13:21] <hetii> what you mean by reverse ?
[16:13:57] <hetii> there should be a movement ?
[16:14:23] <_abc_> What do you mean by "reverse". A motor? The program?
[16:14:32] <hetii> yep, motor
[16:15:32] <hetii> so a->b->c-d (here change dir) c->b->a
[16:16:47] <_abc_> a,b,c,d -- c,b,a -- d wil lnot be repeated
[16:18:43] <hetii> ok thx :)
[16:34:35] <Deejay> gn8
[16:38:44] <nubcake> n8 everyone
[17:07:16] <hetii> hmm interesting, for eighth step mode I don`t need to slow down my program between steps
[17:07:34] <hetii> but for othermodes i need to do it cause motor just make some noises
[17:12:49] <JT-Shop> could be your acceleration setting... voltage etc
[18:15:09] <hetii> Odd, I set static direction flag in my driver to be use that my motor should go to one direction but as I see, he do 3~4 step forward and one backward
[18:17:43] <JT-Shop> sounds electrical
[18:18:37] <Tom_L> JT-Shop are you gonna use linuxcnc for your big printer?
[18:19:26] <hetii> ok time to go bed, will try to fix it tommorow
[18:19:27] <hetii> :_
[18:19:29] <hetii> see U
[18:20:04] <JT-Shop> Tom_L: that's the plan atm, make a filter program to fix a few small things like M codes
[18:20:22] <JT-Shop> I'll get much better performance than a ramps or the 24v one
[18:20:44] <Tom_L> how so?
[18:20:48] <Tom_L> stepper wise?
[18:21:15] <JT-Shop> well yes, a 50v driver can go much faster than a 12v or 24v one
[18:21:34] <JT-Shop> plus the gecko drives are very smooth
[18:21:49] <Tom_L> yeah
[18:21:55] <Mac-Phone> i thought the largest factor to speed is extrusion spped
[18:22:00] <Tom_L> a 2560 could drive those too though
[18:22:29] <JT-Shop> prob go 48v and the G251X gecko drives
[18:23:10] <JT-Shop> you can go bigger nozzles and 3mm filament
[18:23:37] <Tom_L> print quality suffers though doesn't it?
[18:29:23] <JT-Shop> print texture changes with nozzle size not quality, I feel with my limited experience that slop, backlash and other mechanical issues cause quality issues
[18:29:37] <JT-Shop> but I may be full of shit and not know it yet
[18:31:34] <JT-Shop> being able to get an accurate first layer is the biggest hurdle on hobby crap machines
[18:33:38] <MacGalempsy> This came out pretty good. Ouray, Colorado is the washer.
https://flic.kr/p/MBfker
[18:59:18] <Jymmm> MacGalempsy: Then shouldn't it be a pot leaf instead?
[19:01:41] <Frank_10> i fuc**d up;... i cleaned some burrs from drilling holes on a precision ground surface with an angle grinder; and i ended up taking away 1/8" from the circunference of the hole; about 0.001" in depth; but now the hiwin rail block wont sit close to the holes by that 1/8 T_T
[19:02:06] <Frank_10> maybe someone can tell me if its a serious issue or i am beeing too picky
[19:03:43] <Frank_10> i know; not enough information; i just had to say it somewhere my mind is non stop thinking about it; i should see a shrink hehe..
[19:12:47] <JT-Shop> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRfRITVdz4k
[19:18:15] <Frank_10> it literally helped. heh sweet old medicine
[19:21:48] <SpeedEvil> Simply go over the whole surface evenly with the grinder
[19:24:24] <SpeedEvil> More seriously. Unless very highly stressed, it's not an issue.
[19:28:09] * Jymmm shrink is 300 rounds and an hour later... and cheap too!
[19:51:04] <MacGalempsy> Jymmm: maybe that is the paint job they want on them. I am amazed at how well the contourng came out on the mountains.
[19:53:38] <Frank_10> heh i thought you were serious speedevil i didnt knew what to answer
[19:57:05] <Frank_10> hehe thats another one jymmm; thanks guys
[19:57:17] <Crom> got tips for my soldering iron... changing it though, mucked up the heting element... now I have to replace the iron
[19:58:04] <SpeedEvil> Frank_10: filled epoxy can be somewhat useful for this
[19:58:30] <Frank_10> i was thinking of some similar idea;
[19:58:47] <Frank_10> but its just 0.01mm depth
[19:59:00] <Frank_10> 3mm around the hole
[19:59:11] <SpeedEvil> hmm
[20:00:47] <Frank_10> i was just worried that the bolt would pull the block material imside those 0.01 to 0.02mm; but it doesnt seem to be much; even if it bends; the hell with it. lol
[20:01:24] <Frank_10> its my first machine ever.. you know.. stuff heh
[20:02:01] <BeachBumPete> if you are terribly worried about it have someone tig weld the holes shut and then surface grind again and remachine them ;)
[20:02:50] <Frank_10> never actually made a project so big; actually i've never before tapped a hole before this machine; i should be impressed of what i've accomplished so far..
[20:03:08] <BeachBumPete> did ya break any taps?
[20:04:04] <Frank_10> yeah.. maybe if they give some kind of wired; not expectable; problem ill just plain re ground; no need for filling the holes. thanks for listening thou; probably thats what i just needed heh
[20:04:41] <Frank_10> (english not first language excuse me)
[20:05:01] <BeachBumPete> sure not sure I helped ya tho ;)
[20:06:45] <Frank_10> hehe nevermind jack is here to do that for me
[20:07:00] <Frank_10> the bottle) just in case....
[20:07:19] <gorbypark> i have a button that works for turning machine power on and off, but i switched it out to a non-momentary turn switch...how can i tell hal to not use it as a momentary ?
[20:24:51] <Jymmm> Crom: It's cheap enugh that you can buy another one, instead of new tips for it...
https://www.amazon.com/Velleman-VTSS5U-Low-Cost-Soldering-150-480%C2%B0C/dp/B000I40HFQ
[20:27:04] <Jymmm> Crom: I use these instead of a sponge
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Brite-Stainless-Steel-Scrubbing-Pads-3-Pack/13281617
[20:29:14] <Jymmm> Crom: liquid flux (which I transfer to an empty nail polish bottle)
https://www.amazon.com/Solder-Flux-Liquid-2oz-10-4202/dp/B004RIF3BM
[20:40:56] <Frank_10> beachbumpete: 40min later; but i'vr just noticed; yeah i broke 3; but after those! not another one again; you kind of learn to know when they are going to die..(taps)
[20:42:27] <BeachBumPete> hehe sure do. Especially the small ones can be quite challenging doing many holes.
[21:33:03] <Crom> nice
[21:34:20] <Crom> I use the copper scrubby tip cleaner... epoxied to the top of the soldering iron base
[21:34:58] <Crom> My iron was from Power Express
[21:35:01] <Crom> $15
[21:36:49] <Crom> ahhh my 0-10v speed control is actually 10v-0v
[21:37:13] <Crom> 10v is 0 rpm and 0v is 12000 rpm
[21:39:18] <Crom> so I have to get another soldering iron before I can finish my nano PID spindle control
[21:42:08] <Crom> parts-express.com
[21:43:20] <Crom> carp it's gone up in price
http://www.parts-express.com/stahl-tools-ssvt-variable-temperature-soldering-iron-station--374-100
[22:25:16] <Jymmm> Crom: still cheap enough =)
[23:17:42] <CaptHindsight> http://www.tubecollectors.org/archives/606.pdf
[23:31:16] <FloppyDisk525> Ummm, the type of tungsten is a bit interesting...
[23:32:30] <FloppyDisk525> three fingers of the crow and 5000 cubic feet per second - that's precision and power at the same time...
[23:36:51] <CaptHindsight> http://www.earlytelevision.org/mechanical_gallery.html got me thinking of a LCNC controlled mechanical TV
