#linuxcnc | Logs for 2016-10-09

[00:07:38] <Cromaglious_> Just thought of a way to get more Z height on the 3040. If I cut the sides of the gantry, I have some AL plate I can bolt to the side.
[00:08:02] <XXCoder> or just change new sides
[00:08:09] <XXCoder> do a lean back mod at same time
[00:08:18] <XXCoder> so you recover some of X too
[00:08:26] <Cromaglious_> I can mill some holes so I can adjust it up 0,50,100mm
[00:09:31] <XXCoder> http://www.cnccookbook.com/img/OthersProjects/SmCNC4.jpg
[00:09:36] <Cromaglious_> just need to order some transfer punches
[00:09:36] <XXCoder> look at how gantry sides are shaped
[00:09:40] <XXCoder> thats to recover some Y
[00:09:47] <XXCoder> mine is plain up and down
[00:10:13] <Cromaglious_> yep thinking about leaning back the plates to recover Y
[00:11:20] <XXCoder> yeah
[00:11:27] <XXCoder> couple inches but may make difference.
[00:11:36] <XXCoder> if you want that as well as make it taller too
[00:16:54] <XXCoder> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:292655
[00:17:00] <XXCoder> convert delta to mill lol
[00:17:05] <XXCoder> crazy, bet its weak
[00:20:04] <codepython777> can a tarmach 440 cut carbon fiber plates?
[00:20:45] <XXCoder> heh cf usually eat tools, otherwise I got no idea. guys?
[00:38:00] <FloppyDisk525> Erant - Wouldn've never guessed that!?
[00:39:23] <XXCoder> yeah someone underpricing china
[00:39:24] <XXCoder> amazing
[00:39:37] <FloppyDisk525> Erant - is that Zapp in the UK, shipping is still not bad?
[00:49:13] <codepython777> link please? :)
[00:55:09] <Erant> FloppyDisk525: Yeah, shipping's about $25.
[00:55:12] <FloppyDisk525> maybe here, but not sure: http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/mechanical-products/ballscrews.html
[00:55:18] <FloppyDisk525> Sweet - not bad...
[00:55:23] <Erant> http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/mechanical-products/ballscrews/ballnuts-144/rsw-ballnuts/r1003r3-rsw-ballnut.html
[00:55:34] <Erant> That ballnut in particular, combined with the C7 R1003 ballscrew.
[00:56:14] <Erant> (Significantly more expensive than like, an SFU1204, but I just don't have the space for that guy)
[00:56:34] <Erant> That one already requires machining the saddle.
[00:56:44] <Erant> Which will be exciting.
[00:57:50] <FloppyDisk525> Yeah - that will be exciting!
[00:59:11] <FloppyDisk525> Ah - you went w/ the c7, nice. I missed the 'length' selection, thought they only had shortie's, but found it.. Nice.
[01:01:30] <FloppyDisk525> You need a discount code. I can't believe how cheap it is to get one of those shipped. Shipping in the US seems overly expensive to me...
[01:01:43] <FloppyDisk525> I pay that for 20lbs to/from midwest or east coast...
[02:31:13] <Deejay> moin
[02:31:25] <XXCoder> heeeeey
[05:07:29] <jthornton> morning
[05:08:09] <XXCoder> yo
[05:12:41] <andypugh> Erant: If you look carefuly at the Zapp site they have two sorts of ballscrew, generic Chinese and Gten (Which is Chinese, but at least a company with a name). The Gten ones are probably a bit better. I had a problem with a generic one in a rotating-nut application where the balls pushed the recirculation plugs out and things siezed up. When I replaced the nut I put epoxy putty over the tops of the plastic plugs so tha
[05:12:41] <andypugh> the same thing couldn’t happen again (the nut fits in a well-sized sleeve, the epoxy was just a spacer)
[05:46:48] <MacGalempsy> mornin.
[05:46:54] <jthornton> XXCoder: for some reason I can't get the pla to stick to the hot bed anymore, it just wads up
[05:47:07] <XXCoder> either too close to bed or far
[05:51:04] <jthornton> what's the ideal distance? I tried going closer by 0.1 and 0.2
[05:51:24] <jthornton> printed the skirt ok but wadded up the first layer on the part
[05:52:01] <XXCoder> is skirt super flat?
[05:52:02] <malcom2073_> jthornton: You clean the bed?
[05:52:43] <XXCoder> I use 0.18 feeler gage in such way it bumps lightly but goes under the nozzle.
[05:52:56] <XXCoder> then print setting slic3r 0.5 mm rise z
[05:53:03] <XXCoder> err 0.05? lemme look
[05:53:10] <XXCoder> 0.5mm
[05:53:36] <XXCoder> more like fairly strong bump but till slides in
[05:53:41] <jthornton> yes the bed is clean
[05:56:16] <jthornton> so home z then set the hot bed for 0.5mm
[05:56:57] <XXCoder> slic3r can rise initial height so it prints nice
[06:16:00] <jthornton> I'll look for it in a bit when I go out to the shop
[06:18:26] <XXCoder> cool
[06:20:42] <MacGalempsy> jt try gluestick on the bed
[06:20:51] <MacGalempsy> or blue tape
[06:27:42] <jthornton> everything I've read about blue tape says don't use it on a hot bed only a cold bed
[06:28:23] <XXCoder> dunno I used tape heh
[06:28:35] <XXCoder> they may be correct dunno
[06:30:51] <jthornton> weird I printed several parts and all of a sudden I have problems... I'll just check everything twice in a bit
[06:31:10] <MacGalempsy> oh. i didnt realize its hot. i use the cheapest rocker hold hairspray with abs and a heated bed
[06:32:17] <MacGalempsy> if a gust of cold air hits, it could be a problem. in a shop you may put it inside an enclosure
[06:33:32] <enleth> jthornton: having sudden problems is a given with FDM 3D printers, do not be surprised
[06:35:29] <XXCoder> yeah
[06:35:34] <jthornton> there is not any air blowing in the shop, pretty calm all sealed up
[06:35:40] <XXCoder> 3d printers is sensibve compared to rough cnc machinbes
[06:35:50] <jthornton> I figured there was a learning curve lol
[06:36:14] <XXCoder> im printing reasonable level of accuracy but still can be better
[06:36:23] <jthornton> I figured out what happens when the cold end fan stops working too
[06:36:24] <XXCoder> whats annoying me now is lines on sides
[06:36:34] <XXCoder> the ribs? ow
[06:36:41] <XXCoder> inside gets gummy?
[06:40:08] <jthornton> jams up lol
[06:42:25] <XXCoder> lol
[06:42:35] <XXCoder> you did cold pulls to clean interior up?
[06:43:28] <MacGalempsy> any singed finger tips yet?
[06:43:50] <XXCoder> couple times, when petg and pla clogged up
[06:43:56] <XXCoder> I usually use feeler gage t0 clean
[06:48:28] <jthornton> me, no
[06:48:57] <jthornton> I used a small screw driver to screw it out the end after taking it apart
[06:50:56] <XXCoder> cool
[06:54:44] <jthornton> come to think of it the problems started when I clicked on easy button in slic3r I think
[07:37:47] <pink_vampire> https://cnc4pc.com/software-plugins/uccnc-control-software-966.html
[07:38:03] <pink_vampire> what is that?
[07:41:01] <archivist> crippleware
[07:43:27] <pink_vampire> I mean it's just mach3 with other skin or other windows based cnc controller?
[07:48:24] <waynix> hi i have a problem configuring the endstops that are connected with the pluto p board
[07:48:43] <pink_vampire> woooooooooowwww pluto p !!!!!!!
[07:48:49] <waynix> my machine does not stop if I pull the enstop high or low
[07:48:52] <pink_vampire> years
[07:49:18] <waynix> ^^
[07:49:27] <waynix> my config is here https://github.com/fablab-neckar-alb/fraese2
[07:51:21] <pink_vampire> I was touched it about 10 years ago
[07:51:47] <waynix> my motors are disconnected atm and I'm doing tests with jumper wires
[07:53:19] <waynix> @10 Years -- I know! It was dufficult to find a pc that is compatible to the plutop board
[07:54:18] <pink_vampire> I know it was very complicated to work with it.
[07:54:38] <pink_vampire> then I just move to the parallel port..
[07:55:06] <waynix> plutop was recommended to me by a friend ...
[07:55:59] <pink_vampire> I know now all the "hard core" users here use the mesa cards
[07:56:09] <waynix> ok
[07:56:20] <andypugh> friends don’t let friends buy Pluto P :-)
[07:56:28] <JT-i3> lol
[07:56:32] <waynix> rofl
[07:57:05] <JT-i3> even the "soft core" users use Mesa cards
[07:57:30] <andypugh> I think that Ihave heard that Pluto-P either works OK, or doesn’t, on any given computer. And there is no way to predict. It’s to do with exact parallel port implementations.
[07:58:09] <malcom2073_> It's only us lamers who don't use mesa cards. parallel port 4 lyfe!
[07:58:20] <MacGalempsy> lol
[07:58:25] <andypugh> pink_vampire: UCCNC appears to be specific to a certain motion controller. And doesn’t do some things that Mach3 does, so it isn’t Mac.
[07:59:02] <JT-i3> there is nothing wrong with using the parallel port
[07:59:50] <MacGalempsy> andypugh: did the buy come get the cnc yet?
[08:00:00] <MacGalempsy> buyer*
[08:00:02] <waynix> the plutop has mor in and output pins
[08:00:02] <andypugh> Yes. He came the next day.
[08:00:22] <MacGalempsy> any support calla yet?
[08:01:26] <andypugh> MacGalempsy: And then again, 2 days later. By a bizarre coincidence he won a diving bottle from a shop a few hundred yards away from me in a diffeent auction, so came back for me to change user-names and give him some docmentation I had forgotten.
[08:01:46] <andypugh> I think he is busy having his birthday celebrated for him this weekend. :-)
[08:02:26] <MacGalempsy> :) everything the ups lady comes its a holiday
[08:03:32] <MacGalempsy> oops i hate the phone keyboard.. everytime*
[08:04:14] <pink_vampire> hope it will work
[08:05:32] <andypugh> waynix: Anyway, to try to be more helpful. What is the problem you have with the endstops?
[08:05:58] <andypugh> Is LinuxCNC seeing the switches trigger and not doing the right thing, or not seeing them trigger?
[08:08:13] <archivist> waynix, if it is parallel port problems scope the signals for the switch, and check if pulled up properly
[08:08:38] <waynix> I am currently testing if i need to pull them up or down but linuxCNC does not react in either direction
[08:11:31] <enleth> I'm getting the impression that life would be easier for many DIY CNC builders if we just started telling people to set up separate home switches handled by linuxcnc and endstops handled by the e-stop circuit (and a completely hardware-based e-stop) in their machines before coming back with any endstop problems
[08:12:23] <archivist> waynix, here I am talking about between the pluto and the par port
[08:12:41] <archivist> a separate problem
[08:13:25] <archivist> so many ways to skin the stops problem
[08:13:50] <pink_vampire> I'm using aux contact on my main contactor to feet the e-stop to the mach3. but the real e-stop button kill the power to the mail contactor
[08:14:31] <pink_vampire> http://i.imgur.com/VzFbojR.png
[08:14:47] <pink_vampire> 3d printer...
[08:16:09] <pink_vampire> I'm going to make the setup for it now..
[08:16:16] <pink_vampire> hope for good
[08:20:10] <pink_vampire> archivist: users in reprap allergic to cast iron
[08:20:38] <archivist> cast iron is the best
[08:20:41] <waynix> i can move ste stepper motors without problem
[08:20:42] <andypugh> waynix: First thing to do is ue HAL meter to see if the pluto pins are responding to the physical switches. Then check that those signals are getting to axis.N.pos-lim-sw-in pins etc.
[08:21:15] <andypugh> archivist: a
[08:21:16] <waynix> thanks I didnt know the program halmeter
[08:21:27] <andypugh> archivist: Cast Cobalt might be better?
[08:21:52] <archivist> nah http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=cast+iron+pendulum
[08:22:19] <andypugh> waynix: either “machine->hal-meter” in Axis, or open a terminal and type “halcmd -kf” then “loadusr halmeter”
[08:22:25] <andypugh> You can open several of them.
[08:22:34] <pink_vampire> archivist: WOW
[08:23:00] <archivist> some cast iron can take a polish :)
[08:23:16] <andypugh> archivist: That certainly looks very pendulous.
[08:23:28] <pink_vampire> this is how the machine cut???
[08:23:31] <malcom2073_> Hah wow
[08:23:37] <pink_vampire> as machined?
[08:23:52] <malcom2073_> How heavy is that one?
[08:24:00] <archivist> the lid shows polished as well as machined
[08:24:26] <archivist> malcom2073_, was bored out for mercury
[08:25:12] <archivist> cant remember the weight, but will have it somewhere on a solidworks model
[08:28:37] <Deejay> yay, nice
[08:29:30] <archivist> fun part, was working out the centre of gravity with temperature, invar rod, cast bottle, and mercury inside
[08:29:59] <archivist> with an o ring to keep vapours inside
[08:30:16] <waynix> halmeter works!
[08:31:12] <archivist> halmeter saves hours of work
[08:34:43] <Tom_itx> JT-i3, glue sticks work on pla or abs. they use both at the uni
[08:34:50] <Tom_itx> http://www.target.com/p/2pk-elmers-glue-stick/-/A-17088980?ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=&adgroup=&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9024248&gclid=CIfr4KDkzc8CFcOGaQod4usG5w&gclsrc=aw.ds
[08:34:52] <Tom_itx> or similar
[08:34:57] <archivist> pink_vampire, by the way, that polish was wet and dry like we mentioned the other day
[08:42:17] <JT-i3> Tom_itx: thanks, I think I have a different problem... when I load the file I get manifold errors whatever that is
[08:42:43] <JT-i3> the successful prints in slic3r said manifold:yes
[08:46:15] <JT-i3> well that test proved that theory wrong
[08:49:52] <_methods> still no pete?
[08:50:21] <_methods> no power here still
[08:51:34] <JT-i3> lol a spritz of white rain worked
[08:51:48] <JT-i3> must have got the aluminum plate too clean
[08:52:32] <JT-i3> _methods: where is "here"?
[09:00:42] <JT-i3> I guess the aluminum had a coating on it and when I cleaned it I removed it and then it was too slick lol
[09:14:09] <MacGalempsy> pete was in last night
[09:14:58] <MacGalempsy> JT-i3: there use to be a free program named netfabb that is used to create manifold stls
[09:15:36] <MacGalempsy> usually if was just upload and its automatically processed the file
[09:37:09] <JT-Shop> I can't use online services except during free time
[09:43:37] <JT-i3> MacGalempsy: I just d/l meshmixer or something like that and it fixed the file :)
[09:59:02] * JT-i3 finally got a print to start of the atomic hub
[10:05:58] <JT-i3> almost lol
[10:13:02] <Erant> andypugh: It looks like the ones I'm looking at are actually Gten
[10:13:28] <andypugh> Great
[10:13:36] <Erant> But only because all the downloads related to those all feature Gten documentation.
[10:14:03] <Erant> So... Unless they're using Gten's CAD and Catalogue for generic Chinese ballnuts...
[10:14:04] <andypugh> Which nut?
[10:14:11] <Erant> http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/mechanical-products/ballscrews/ballnuts-144/rsw-ballnuts/r1003r3-rsw-ballnut.html
[10:14:47] <andypugh> (I only ask because one of the nuts in the GTEN catalogue has a ball transfeer tube in real life, but not in the catalogue)
[10:15:33] <Erant> It could be this one, if it's the RSW
[10:18:50] <andypugh> No, it’s the RSH 16-H5-3.5. Which is (apart from the ball tube) very useful, being for a 16mm screw bit with a 1” dia body. And they can provide it preloaded.
[10:19:21] <andypugh> It’s far slimmer than any other 16mm nut.
[10:19:28] <Erant> Huh, interesting.
[10:19:43] <andypugh> (and, in fact, is much slimmer than the RSH 12mm !
[10:20:58] <Erant> Yeah, I just noticed that.
[10:21:10] <Erant> That's... interesting?
[10:22:28] <andypugh> Here is hoe I squozed one into my mill: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/vertical-mill-lathe-project-log/109301-cnc-post1393132.html#post1393132
[10:24:38] <Erant> Djeez
[10:24:56] <andypugh> (the image links are now broken, but the album link below each one works, if you want bigger pics)
[10:26:50] <Erant> That is a marvelously tiny ball nut.
[10:27:12] <Erant> Did you just end up contacting Gten directly?
[10:27:46] <andypugh> No, I ordered via Zapp
[10:29:15] <Erant> Do you know if the rest of their nuts are P1? Or will I have to go fiddle with the bearings myself.
[10:29:17] <andypugh> I used the same nut for the lathe, for the same reason. Slim. 16mm and aailable with preload: http://bodgesoc.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Holbrook08%20X-axis%20and%20first%20parts
[10:29:55] <andypugh> Send an email, the Zapp chap is good at replying.
[10:30:01] <Erant> Will do.
[10:30:15] <Erant> I'm still confused as to how he's cheaper than China.
[10:34:50] <Erant> He's coming out to about $150 for two ball screws, shipped. The end-supports are pricy, but those I can get somewhere else (or integrate them into the adapter myself)
[10:35:28] <Erant> andypugh: Did you end up machining the ends yourself?
[10:35:47] <andypugh> Ye
[10:35:50] <andypugh> Yes
[10:36:10] <Erant> I was going to do that. Hard machining, or did you grind off the case hardening?
[10:36:14] <Erant> Or add a journal
[10:37:54] <andypugh> I hard-turned them using CBN inserts. Here is an example, done on an old COlchester Student lathe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmuZXXP_hMY
[10:39:06] <Erant> Wonder if my poor little Atlas would be up to it.
[10:40:19] <Erant> Guess I'll find out.
[10:40:20] <andypugh> I think I did the milling machine screws on the Cheap Chinese Lathe. I only used the Colchester for that screw because it was 20mm and wouldn’t fit down the spindle of the CCL.
[10:41:00] <andypugh> You can actually use normal carbide. But use a crazy-high spindle speed so that the swarf comes off as molten metal.
[10:41:14] <andypugh> (Google for “hard turning”
[10:47:20] <Erant> O_o That sounds... scary.
[10:58:26] <andypugh> Sandals are depreacted
[10:58:38] <andypugh> (deprecated, that is)
[10:59:11] <archivist> steel toe caps recommended
[11:00:45] <Erant> I always wear steel toe boots.
[11:01:07] <archivist> and me
[11:01:16] <Erant> Not sure why, there's nothing especially heavy in my shop. But if I drop an angle grinder or something...
[11:13:42] <pink_vampire> I need some good music
[11:15:05] <Erant> pink_vampire: Euh... what kind
[12:11:35] <Roguish> Erant: you can anneal the ends of the screws you are going to machine. just the ends....
[12:12:03] <IchGucksLive> hi
[12:13:05] <Deejay> hi
[12:14:19] <IchGucksLive> ungefähr 400 leute waren da
[12:14:31] <IchGucksLive> Deejay: war cool milling
[12:14:43] <Deejay> nice
[12:14:44] <IchGucksLive> as the temp in the shop droped
[12:15:35] <IchGucksLive> nice the Kress people showed up with the prototype of TC for the FBS
[12:15:47] <IchGucksLive> so on x-mas this year sale starts
[12:15:52] <IchGucksLive> on sk20 TC
[12:17:01] <IchGucksLive> so time to rest
[12:17:09] <IchGucksLive> Gn8 till tomorrow
[12:17:15] <Deejay> gn8
[12:39:39] <Erant> Roguish: Yeah, I thought about that too. Get some wet towels, basically.
[12:41:02] <Roguish> I did it on 2 screws. heat up and cool slowly. but only the very ends you're machining. worked out good.
[12:41:37] <Roguish> try to isolate the heat to just the ends.
[12:43:39] <Erant> I've seen recommendations to either wrap the screws in wet towels, or for smaller screws to just keep them under water.
[12:45:03] <Erant> The alternative I've seen, which I sorta like, is to drill a hole, tap the end of the hole, and loctite a new end in there.
[12:46:42] <Erant> Allows an oversized journal. Otherwise I end up with a ~6mm shaft for the coupling.
[12:46:53] <Erant> Not that's the end of the world.
[13:33:42] <andypugh> Roguish: Have you tried machining screws without the heating and cooling? It’s not so hard to do.
[13:34:36] <Roguish> no, just did a set a few years back.. you're probably right. just good tools needed and patience.
[13:35:49] <Roguish> depending upon the couple you're using, might not have to machine all the way to the root of the ball groove.
[13:36:19] <Roguish> ONLY use clamp style couplers. no keysways or flats or the like.
[13:42:23] <andypugh> I like to use tapers.
[13:44:08] <andypugh> This is the end of one of my screws, with a differential screw to pull the extension piece onto the taper: https://goo.gl/photos/N7rE2QQBkrNwTTbbA
[13:46:03] <andypugh> Then the differential screw can be operated from the end, down a hole: https://goo.gl/photos/92w45WnUkJJqYX4S8
[13:46:35] <andypugh> (This was basically the only way I could see to assemble this)
[13:49:33] <Cromaglious_> all my boots except my costume boots are steel toes. I do need to get some slip on steel toe shoes
[13:50:12] <andypugh> All my clothes are Hi-Viz
[13:50:13] <Cromaglious_> I really want to get some redwing slip on boots too
[13:50:36] <andypugh> In fact, I might get my skin tatooed n Hi-Viz, Just in case.
[13:50:40] <Cromaglious_> most of my long sleeve tshirts are highviz
[13:51:04] <Cromaglious_> blaze orange and highviz green
[13:51:17] <andypugh> I was actually lying. I wear black at all times, and prefer to avoid steell toe caps where possible.
[13:51:52] <andypugh> I also almost never wear any eye protection.
[13:52:04] <Cromaglious_> I can't see without glasses
[13:52:55] <Cromaglious_> they aren't safety glasses.. but they are polycarb lens
[13:53:24] <CaptHindsight> andypugh: ever machine Hastelloy?
[13:54:20] <Duc> steel toes suck but the new composite toes feel nice
[13:54:37] <CaptHindsight> andypugh: looking at alloy options for the inner chamber of a ~1cu ft oven filled with inert gas at 200C
[13:55:14] <andypugh> CaptHindsight: I haven’t, but I suspect it’s not the easiest thing to machine.
[13:55:29] <andypugh> Do you mean 2000C?
[13:55:46] <andypugh> 200C is hardly a challenge for anything?
[13:55:50] <CaptHindsight> no just up to 200C, 400F
[13:56:08] <CaptHindsight> well it has to hold temp +- 1C
[13:56:31] <CaptHindsight> it's mainly to act as mass to hold heat
[13:57:31] <CaptHindsight> try to provide as even a temp throughout it's volume
[13:58:49] <CaptHindsight> it's sealed since it's filled with either nitrogen or argon
[13:59:19] <andypugh> Ordinary stainless should be fine, I think
[14:00:32] <CaptHindsight> stainless is ~7-26/mK, Hastelloy is ~6W/mK
[14:01:12] <t12> hi
[14:01:13] <CaptHindsight> carbon steels max at at ~21W/mK
[14:02:19] <CaptHindsight> the exterior will be well insulated
[14:03:15] <CaptHindsight> hey t12
[14:04:24] <t12> whats shakin
[14:04:44] <CaptHindsight> trying to decide where to go for lunch
[14:05:21] <t12> im eating lunch currently
[14:16:05] <Erant> andypugh: Interesting, with the taper. I'm leaning towards adding a journal, as it only needs very minor machining of anything hardened, and dooesn't require annealing. Plus I get to make the shaft any size I want.
[14:30:32] <XXCoder> holy shit
[14:31:05] <SpeedEvil> CaptHindsight: aluminium?
[14:31:26] <SpeedEvil> If you don't care much about strength, should be fine.
[14:32:23] <XXCoder> apparently landlord fixer guy screwed long screw into power cable inside wall
[14:32:53] <XXCoder> it worked till my bro removed screw, now my room one power plugs is dead :(
[14:38:01] <JT-i3> put it back
[14:38:17] <XXCoder> and risk fire sure why not
[14:40:31] <JT-i3> followed this and finally got it printing again http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter's_Calibration_Guide#Slicer_settings
[14:41:14] <JT-i3> not sure I'm ready to walk very far away at the moment
[14:42:19] <Tom_itx> triffid is pretty sharp
[14:42:41] <Tom_itx> he's usually in robotics
[14:42:45] <JT-i3> hmm one of the arms for lack of a better description is lifting up
[14:42:50] <Tom_itx> another aussie
[14:43:13] <Tom_itx> the flanges on the roll holder?
[14:43:37] <XXCoder> JT-i3: pla plastic?
[14:43:53] <JT-i3> yea
[14:44:01] <XXCoder> weird
[14:44:53] <JT-i3> the rest was stuck pretty good
[14:45:09] <XXCoder> you probably touched that area heh
[14:45:22] <XXCoder> finger oil can affect that
[14:45:33] <XXCoder> I need to buy achcol cleaner so I can clean mine
[14:45:54] <JT-i3> yea I bet I touched it
[14:48:33] <andypugh> Is anyone selling thses to the 3D printer crowd yet? http://www.firetrace.com/fire-suppression-systems/indirect-release-systems/
[14:49:04] <JT-i3> without even clicking on it most are too cheap to buy that
[14:51:40] <XXCoder> price is not listed
[14:51:43] <XXCoder> I cant afford that
[14:52:28] <malcom2073_> Heh, yeah 3d printer guys don't care about fire
[14:53:17] <Duc> a CO2 tank or nitrogen is fairly cheap to setup to do that
[14:53:27] <XXCoder> or HALON ;)
[14:53:37] <Duc> alot of the offroad racers are starting to use the systems in the engine bay
[14:53:41] <Duc> Halon is the shit
[14:54:29] <Duc> I used to have a bottle or two in the garage for fires
[14:54:30] <XXCoder> for IT worker thats also murderers too heh
[14:55:19] <XXCoder> BOFH
[14:56:30] <Duc> flight simulators used to have all the computer rooms and inside the sims
[15:05:17] <JT-i3> this print seems to be doing ok, just need to fine tune the E steps
[15:08:39] <XXCoder> JT-i3: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21330-what-does-a-successful-first-layer-look-like
[15:08:56] <XXCoder> its for ultimaker but good guide
[15:10:01] <JT-i3> mine is still like the middle one
[15:10:30] <XXCoder> mines somewhat closer to correct one b8ut still bit squished
[15:11:00] <JT-i3> my Esteps is at 152 but I think I need to up that a bit
[15:11:38] <XXCoder> mine is 156
[15:12:06] <JT-i3> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:264738
[15:14:11] <XXCoder> pretty simple. mine is simpler lol though more annoying too
[15:15:49] <Tom_itx> JT-i3 did you switch spool stands?
[15:18:42] <JT-i3> still using the two cardboard boxes with a nail stuck in them and a rod
[15:20:31] <XXCoder> JT-i3: http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide
[15:20:33] <XXCoder> interesting
[15:27:04] <XXCoder> https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits this is best resource I know so far, JT-i3
[15:32:33] <t12> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y68WLvSBts
[15:33:38] <XXCoder> human robot
[15:37:15] <JT-i3> had some stick outs but the od came out right on the money
[15:37:56] <JT-i3> increased E to 155 printing another one
[15:38:08] <XXCoder> yeah that should be fine
[15:38:18] <XXCoder> you want extrude to be just under correct
[15:38:50] <XXCoder> because it cant be exact, can be either under or over, and you want under to avoid pressure building up slowly
[15:39:02] <JT-i3> does retract help with the strings
[15:39:24] <XXCoder> yeah
[15:39:27] <XXCoder> mine at 5 mm
[15:39:27] <JT-i3> this part looks better already
[15:40:13] <XXCoder> I plan to test -.3 mm on Extra Restart Distance
[15:40:26] <XXCoder> so theres no zits and blobs
[15:40:42] <XXCoder> but like I said above my room plug is dead so i cant print :(
[15:41:31] <XXCoder> https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits
[15:41:35] <XXCoder> my printer current issue
[15:41:35] <JT-i3> hmm can't find retract
[15:41:50] <XXCoder> its in printer setting / extruder
[15:42:06] <XXCoder> in slic3r
[15:42:58] <JT-i3> it would help to have the right nozzle size I bet
[15:43:09] <JT-i3> just figured out how to save your settings lol
[15:43:11] <XXCoder> ow
[15:43:16] <XXCoder> whats your set to, and what is actual
[15:43:28] <XXCoder> HACKER!!! ;)
[15:43:31] <JT-i3> default is 0.5 and mine is 0.4
[15:44:29] <XXCoder> that definitely would affect print
[15:44:41] <JT-i3> the nozzle size is prob a big part of the problem
[15:44:41] <XXCoder> and fixing that will also affect others lol
[15:45:05] <JT-i3> I set it like 3 times but forgot to set it when it crashed and I started it back up
[15:45:35] <Cromaglious_> 94.1F and dry today...
[15:46:18] <XXCoder> JT-i3: I HIGHLY recommand you grab the humidity indictor plates I linked you bit ago
[15:46:30] <Cromaglious_> XXCoder, is the outlet dead, do you have power getting to the outlet?
[15:46:33] <XXCoder> boith boxes indictor is less than 10% :D meaning filiment is staying dry
[15:46:45] <XXCoder> Cromaglious_: dumbass repair guy screwed into power cable inside wall
[15:46:53] <Tom_itx> JT-i3 you gettin those squirt guns all figured out?
[15:47:04] <XXCoder> power is restored but one of my room plugs is permently dead
[15:47:14] <JT-i3> yea just opened up the black today, need to get a sack of desiccant out
[15:47:23] <Cromaglious_> ouch...
[15:47:28] <JT-i3> Tom_itx: fingering out more and more lol
[15:47:34] <JT-i3> kinda neat when it works lol
[15:47:38] <XXCoder> as its partially underground I only have 2 plug walls, and one is dead :( I cant draw too much more power from other one
[15:47:54] <Tom_itx> they always left the spools out at the uni... no problems noticed
[15:47:56] <XXCoder> Tom_itx: yeah been figuring shit up too lol
[15:48:07] <Cromaglious_> that can be a pain... and you can't open up the sheetrock to fix it...
[15:48:13] <XXCoder> tom one of issues in my room is humidity is always high
[15:48:30] <JT-i3> my shop has real low humidity
[15:48:33] <XXCoder> in least its not my nephew room which is nearly always 90%+
[15:48:36] <Tom_itx> JT-i3, yeah we'd sit thru the catia lab classes listening to em print away all the time
[15:48:40] <JT-i3> worse in the winter
[15:48:42] <Tom_itx> they had 2 in that lab
[15:48:50] <JT-i3> with the heater burning
[15:48:54] <Tom_itx> probably 20 or so scattered all over
[15:48:59] <JT-i3> dang
[15:49:03] <XXCoder> bad house :( cant wait to evenually move. minor mold issues too, using true hepa filter to keep it clean + ionizer
[15:49:17] <JT-i3> ouch
[15:49:37] <Tom_itx> during open house they'd have a row of em in the hall printing trinkets to hand out
[15:49:38] <Cromaglious_> I still need to fix the sheet rock I took out to fix the shower
[15:49:47] <JT-i3> set retract to 4 and no more strings, was at 2mm
[15:50:16] <XXCoder> nice
[15:50:19] <JT-i3> I still need to rip the bathtub jacuzzi out and install the shower
[15:50:29] <XXCoder> try Extra Restart Distance" of -.2
[15:50:30] <JT-i3> I'll try 3 to see what it does
[15:50:42] <XXCoder> if your printer is samne as mine im sure its making zits and blobs
[15:50:55] <Cromaglious_> In my master bath I need to rip out the shower and fix all the dryrot
[15:51:08] <Tom_itx> that 20 doesn't count their $$$ precision ones or the larger ones
[15:51:14] <Tom_itx> or the metal printers
[15:51:25] <JT-i3> mind doesn't seem to have zits and blobs
[15:51:58] <JT-i3> when its not your money price is no object
[15:52:28] <XXCoder> interesting, try random perementers and see if it appears. it gets rid of seam on prints, but also makes zit/lines worse
[15:52:38] <XXCoder> since its not aligned its far more visiable
[15:52:40] <Tom_itx> they have a bunch of the 'robo' ones which i don't like the enclosure on but they seem to work pretty good
[16:00:08] <Tom_itx> JT-i3, true about the money but we could use them
[16:01:58] <JT-i3> both of my sisters are educators, my older sister ran the school system in some county forget the name in NC and you hear stories about creative spending so you don't get a reduction in funding lol
[16:02:33] <XXCoder> yeah its same for IT from what I hear
[16:02:50] <XXCoder> thats why theres sudden new computers and sometimes network near end of fiscal year
[16:03:33] <JT-i3> next part should be with near the right settings lol wonder how it will turn out
[16:04:01] <Tom_itx> how many prints have you done now?
[16:04:21] <XXCoder> nice. you added anti-wobble adopters already correct? sorry cant remember
[16:04:33] <JT-i3> 8 successful prints
[16:04:49] <JT-i3> no, I have not nor do I see any wobble
[16:04:52] <Tom_itx> finished with the chinese plastic yet?
[16:05:03] <JT-i3> but I reamed out the holes for nut
[16:05:16] <JT-i3> not using it at the moment, using Atomic
[16:05:29] <Tom_itx> is that what most are using now?
[16:05:38] <JT-i3> when I cleaned the hot bed off and started having problems I started shooting
[16:06:00] <JT-i3> it's good quality filament
[16:06:02] <XXCoder> Tom_itx: atomic is the shit
[16:06:18] <XXCoder> I m throwing away free chinese filiment I got with printer
[16:06:22] <XXCoder> its shit
[16:06:33] <Tom_itx> what about diamond age?
[16:06:34] <XXCoder> sorry if you dont live in usa though
[16:06:39] <XXCoder> no idea
[16:06:43] <JT-i3> I printed 5 parts with it and they came out ok
[16:07:21] <XXCoder> mine it was ok till I got dizzy and sick while it was printing
[16:07:21] <Tom_L> http://diamondage.co.nz/
[16:07:26] <Tom_itx> they sell in the US too
[16:07:44] <XXCoder> I guess chemistry changed across time as filiment was made so its bad now
[16:08:52] <malcom2073_> You're not supposed to breathe molten plastic fumes :-P
[16:09:39] <XXCoder> malcom2073_: no pla its fine, if normal chemistry
[16:09:48] <XXCoder> abs is one you must vent and control
[16:10:15] <XXCoder> it means my chinese filiment has something abormal in it. maybe different plastics mixed in
[16:11:00] <Tom_itx> lead
[16:11:45] <Tom_itx> left over from the fire suits at chernobyl
[16:11:54] <XXCoder> 1 mm nozzle, .6 layer https://i.reddituploads.com/626b7c6d1c6a4572a91949ac82a8e744?fit=max&h=1536&w=1536&s=509a0125e8ba4e3767b57c2ffafb43b3
[16:11:57] <XXCoder> lol
[16:12:04] <Tom_itx> sold to them by the russians
[16:12:18] <andypugh> Tom_itx: Ah, I thought you meant: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Age-Neal-Stephenson/dp/0241953197/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476045815&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+age
[16:12:44] <XXCoder> theres sites where you can buy filiment for $5
[16:12:49] <XXCoder> yeah not trusting those at all
[16:13:02] <XXCoder> probably has rocks in filiment and varancy over 1 mm
[16:13:11] <andypugh> (Which, incidentally, is his second best book, but as his best book is my all-time favourite…)
[16:13:12] <XXCoder> vrianracy
[16:13:13] <Tom_itx> andypugh, this is reprap r us now..
[16:13:39] <XXCoder> apparently
[16:14:05] <JT-i3> ID and OD came out good, getting better
[16:14:15] <JT-i3> much friendlier over here lol
[16:14:53] <XXCoder> maybe new channel #notreprap
[16:15:07] <Tom_itx> if they'd let me moderate the channel....
[16:15:17] <XXCoder> whos "they"
[16:15:27] <Tom_itx> the repcrappers
[16:15:47] <Tom_itx> they gave me crap for logging their channel
[16:16:13] <XXCoder> I dont like that channel very mucjh
[16:16:18] <JT-i3> start a new channel #reprap-no-crap
[16:16:18] <XXCoder> but okay sometimes
[16:16:31] <XXCoder> sorry I named channel first ;)
[16:16:49] <JT-i3> I actually got two good answers today
[16:17:04] <XXCoder> from who?
[16:17:07] <_methods> snowcrash?
[16:17:33] <Tom_itx> JT-i3 how much crap did you sift to get them?
[16:17:44] <JT-i3> actually none
[16:17:57] <JT-i3> I was very surprised
[16:18:18] <XXCoder> reprap isnt that bad, just not as good as this channel
[16:19:07] <Tom_itx> when i was there everybody there had something to sell
[16:19:48] <XXCoder> only crunch tries to sell, but then his filiment is awesome
[16:20:14] <Tom_itx> is that the Atomic stuff?
[16:20:23] <XXCoder> ordered 6 from him, and love all I bought from him. only one I havent used and its abs and my room it cant be vented
[16:20:25] <XXCoder> yeah
[16:21:06] <XXCoder> 4 pla, 1 petg and one abs
[16:21:30] <JT-i3> this print looks way better!
[16:21:45] <XXCoder> more retract, and correct nozzle size?
[16:21:47] <Tom_itx> pics or it never happened
[16:22:03] <JT-i3> it ain't done yet lol
[16:22:09] <Tom_itx> that's ok
[16:22:16] <Deejay> gn8
[16:22:17] <Tom_itx> work in progress
[16:22:26] <Tom_itx> bbiab..
[16:53:47] <Cromaglious_> hmmm do I want to upgrade the 3040, or just build a new one...
[16:53:50] <witnit> anyone know of a good(cost) supplier of things like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/DB25-Male-Ribbon-Connector-/380996469652?hash=item58b528c394:g:zZYAAOSwGvhUE0f-
[16:53:59] <witnit> build moar!
[16:54:37] <Cromaglious_> all DB's are getting expensive...
[16:55:14] <XXCoder> aliexpress heh
[16:55:55] <witnit> I suppose I should probably try a website like ali, just never bought from there
[16:56:18] <XXCoder> aliexpress is ok, though if you live in state that they disallow, just mispell the state name
[16:56:35] <witnit> lol
[16:56:36] <pcw_home> digikey is cheaper
[16:56:36] <XXCoder> my state it was the case so I just put in waashington
[16:56:46] <witnit> thank you pc
[16:57:42] <pcw_home> Amphenol is $2.88 qty 1
[16:58:03] <witnit> amphenol and 3M were nice to me in the past
[16:58:32] <witnit> the 3M ones I had even taken on and off a couple times in a pinch and reused them
[17:01:18] <JT-i3> that part came out sweet!
[17:01:29] <XXCoder> JT-i3: pics or its very ugly
[17:02:25] <witnit> hideous
[17:02:56] <XXCoder> it gets uglier each min that passes between request and post ;)
[17:03:04] <JT-Shop> lol
[17:03:21] <nubcake> :D
[17:05:58] <Duc> andypugh: got it working. I tihnk I had the 7i92 hooked to the wrong connector when tying in the 7i76
[17:06:03] <XXCoder> soon it will arrive at critical uglyness
[17:06:07] <JT-i3> http://gnipsel.com/images/prusa-i3-clone/Atomic-hub-V4-01.jpg
[17:06:12] <JT-i3> http://gnipsel.com/images/prusa-i3-clone/Atomic-hub-V4-02.jpg
[17:06:17] <XXCoder> just on time, pics are safe to clickj
[17:06:31] <JT-i3> better quality than the parts that made it lol
[17:06:39] <XXCoder> nice
[17:06:57] <XXCoder> little z banding and lines
[17:06:58] * JT-i3 gets his evening beer
[17:07:04] <andypugh> It’s like a thing, made badly out of snot :-)
[17:07:52] <JT-i3> it turns to snot real fast when things go bad lol
[17:08:09] <XXCoder> andypugh: I made angel pasta few times so far lol
[17:08:13] <andypugh> I am very surprised I don’t have one
[17:08:15] <XXCoder> its when print go very bad
[17:08:23] <JT-i3> still gotta tighten up the bottom layer, some tiny gaps between the runs
[17:08:53] <XXCoder> and some anti-wobbling, and also Extra Restart Distance
[17:09:09] <XXCoder> im not very surpised you are getting exact same problems I had
[17:10:15] <XXCoder> what temperate was you running pla at?
[17:11:21] <JT-i3> first layer 215, rest 200
[17:11:35] <XXCoder> interesting
[17:11:53] <XXCoder> yours look little bit more shiny than mine. my room probably is colder though
[17:12:18] <Tom_itx> he's got a better camera :)
[17:12:20] <JT-i3> bed is 65/55
[17:12:22] <JT-i3> lol
[17:12:46] <Tom_itx> hard to tell from a black printed part
[17:12:59] <XXCoder> Tom_itx: very.
[17:13:05] <JT-i3> I wish I had the stl files for the printed parts on this printer
[17:13:20] <Tom_itx> they're probably around somewhere
[17:13:54] <Tom_itx> i bet someone with solidworks could reproduce them fairly quickly
[17:13:59] <XXCoder> JT-i3: its in sd you got with your printer
[17:14:09] <XXCoder> in least mine did
[17:14:16] <JT-i3> some good printed parts and good bearings and this printer would be real nice
[17:14:21] * JT-i3 looks
[17:14:29] <Tom_itx> what's it called?
[17:14:39] <XXCoder> prusa i3 2020 frame
[17:14:45] <XXCoder> chinese clone
[17:14:53] <XXCoder> we have exact same model lol
[17:14:55] <JT-i3> all metal is in the description too
[17:15:29] <JT-i3> did some of the stl files have chinese names
[17:16:42] <XXCoder> hmm havent looked for a bit but unfortunately have to run, my van is very cloose to out of fuel and I cant refuel during week.
[17:18:20] <XXCoder> JT-i3: btw if you decide to use my design anti-wobble, you would need to lower couplers by 10 mm or so
[17:18:26] <XXCoder> simple enough to doi
[17:18:37] <JT-i3> ok
[17:18:43] <XXCoder> you wont need nuts for anti-wobble, it should be tight enough to just bolt in
[17:18:58] <Tom_itx> what's this anti-wobble thing you keep talking about?
[17:19:19] <XXCoder> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1804112
[17:20:00] <XXCoder> it decouples screw from x assembly so it simply lift and lower, and not push x array around as it rotates (wobble)
[17:20:42] <witnit> ahh, so like when the screw goes up and down it also moves the head in helix?
[17:21:00] <XXCoder> witnit: because screw isnt perfectly stright
[17:21:42] <XXCoder> threads is pretty good itself so lift and lower is accurate, its just that its also moving head around because screws is not stright
[17:21:55] <XXCoder> so prints have those ripples
[17:22:16] <XXCoder> not those zit and lines, that is entirely different problem
[17:22:26] <witnit> yeah seems like it would be a common problem, imagine the acme thread on a mill table or lathe carriage, they always wobble and are not concentric
[17:22:53] <JT-Shop> Tom_itx: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Full-Metal-Frame-3D-Printer-Professional-3d-Color-Printer-with-8GB-SD-Card-LCD-One-Roll/32705186296.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.xOSMPe
[17:23:27] <Tom_itx> https://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-reprap-2020-prusa-i3-full-aluminum-3d-printer-kit
[17:23:33] <Tom_itx> looks quite similar
[17:23:46] <XXCoder> folger one is real one
[17:23:56] <XXCoder> aliexpress is clone design
[17:24:03] <Tom_itx> not that much price difference
[17:24:22] <JT-i3> crap you need to rotate the part
[17:24:37] <Tom_itx> except you probably pay shipping on the real one
[17:25:03] <XXCoder> I need to rotate the part?
[17:26:21] <JT-i3> you have to add the lcd controller to compare kits
[17:26:29] <JT-i3> yea it opens up wrong
[17:26:49] <XXCoder> strange, I designed it so its flat on surface
[17:26:52] <Tom_itx> ahh the original doesn't have an lcd..
[17:27:27] <XXCoder> though slic3r have "lay flat on surface" thing
[17:27:37] <XXCoder> try that after rotating to close enoygh
[17:27:53] <nubcake> n8 everyone
[17:28:04] <JT-i3> it has manifold errors so I need to pipe it through the stl fixing thing
[17:28:24] <XXCoder> wobble stl file?
[17:28:42] <Tom_itx> JT-i3 it even has the encoder knob for the menus on the lcd?
[17:28:50] <JT-i3> yea
[17:28:58] <Tom_itx> sd or thumbdrive?
[17:29:01] <JT-i3> the coffee one is a different design
[17:29:03] <JT-i3> sd
[17:29:09] <XXCoder> JT-i3: wow failed in cura
[17:29:15] <XXCoder> lemme re-upload
[17:29:21] <JT-i3> I just print from the pc
[17:29:24] <Tom_itx> to just load the files or does it keep pulling code from the sd?
[17:29:40] <JT-i3> you can run from the sd
[17:29:50] <Tom_itx> have you tried it?
[17:30:02] <JT-i3> copy the file from slic3r to the sd then put the sd in the controller and awwayyyy you go
[17:30:05] <JT-i3> nopt
[17:30:07] <Tom_itx> you should...
[17:30:16] <JT-i3> when I get time I will
[17:31:09] <Tom_itx> you should machine all the plastic parts from aluminum
[17:31:20] <Tom_itx> since you have the stuff to do it
[17:32:07] <XXCoder> JT-i3: I fucked up export'
[17:32:15] <XXCoder> im uploading corrected fike'
[17:32:51] <Tom_itx> ok. i've just about wore out this $3 keyboard
[17:32:59] <Tom_itx> may need to pick up another soon
[17:33:15] <witnit> maybe you should buy a more expensive one this time
[17:33:23] <Tom_itx> i have really good ones too
[17:33:31] <Tom_itx> but i've got ~10 pcs
[17:33:31] <XXCoder> JT-i3: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1804112
[17:33:49] <Tom_itx> just not on on all of em
[17:33:57] <witnit> when I got my nintendo brand keyboard it only cost tree fiddy
[17:34:28] <Tom_itx> i've got one at least 15 yrs old and you'd have to pry it outta my cold dead hands to get it...
[17:34:53] <Tom_itx> i've gotten a few replacement keytops for it along the way
[17:35:23] <andypugh> 54321§23765r4 cde3 y6cde3jmu7 frv4bgt5ikm8bgt5 frv4ju7 ,lo9hy6gt5ju7 p0-;gt5lo9]lo9hy65ju7 lp0o9gt5hy6i8.-p0gt5hy6 lp0-ojmu7'jnu7 p0-]
[17:35:27] <andypugh> \|]t5e3hny6 fr4w2t5r4f aq1cde3o90p-[7yg6dr45w3q2ahny6 -;p.
[17:35:27] <witnit> you dont say?
[17:35:30] <XXCoder> Tom_itx: my apple keyboard is 10 years old lol
[17:37:43] <JT-i3> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12925
[17:38:04] <XXCoder> I need to try that
[17:38:13] <XXCoder> my pla can bridge pretty good.
[17:38:38] <XXCoder> tried my tower/bridge/retract torture bridge test chair yet? lol
[17:38:48] <Tom_itx> JT-i3, print that 2.5" hdd mount
[17:38:52] <JT-i3> where do you make bridge settings?
[17:38:54] <Tom_itx> it's got a pretty good bridge
[17:39:18] <witnit> wheres that confounded bridge
[17:39:20] <JT-i3> bridge flow ratio
[17:39:30] <XXCoder> lemme look at mine
[17:39:46] <JT-i3> says a fan helps with bridges
[17:40:00] <Tom_itx> https://grabcad.com/library/hard-drive-adapter-1
[17:40:04] <Tom_itx> we did that on end just fine
[17:40:05] <XXCoder> JT-i3: my bridge flow ratio is 0.8
[17:40:16] <XXCoder> bridge speed 25 mm/s
[17:40:17] <JT-i3> ok
[17:41:02] <JT-i3> got it
[17:41:23] <JT-i3> almost done with Atomic Hub Mk5
[17:41:41] <XXCoder> btw dont try to print my chair with petg unless you increase distance travel before retract to over 20mm
[17:41:50] <XXCoder> otherwise it will... get very ugly
[17:42:09] <JT-i3> I've already seen enough ugly to last a while
[17:42:11] <XXCoder> petg really dont like retracting very often
[17:42:26] <JT-i3> why petg?
[17:42:27] <XXCoder> my my bridge test chair is very nasty on retracts
[17:42:40] <XXCoder> its like abs, only not as sensive
[17:43:36] <witnit> why dont 3d printers do this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss96tsbG5KY
[17:44:01] <XXCoder> cant do that at tiny scale
[17:44:45] <witnit> says you
[17:44:47] <witnit> hahahah
[17:45:07] <witnit> it just seems like the next step, curious why it wasnt there yet
[17:45:09] <XXCoder> I suppose can vary nozzle apenture
[17:45:42] <XXCoder> JT-i3: file loads fine this time?
[17:51:19] <JT-i3> which file?
[18:01:12] <XXCoder> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1804112
[18:01:17] <XXCoder> bad stl file
[18:01:32] <XXCoder> I uploaded and this time thingverse rendered a model picture so it is correct this time
[18:38:57] <codepython777> I'm looking to cut carbon fiber plates, alum. - 24" x 24". What is a good router to buy? Preferably with good accuracy.
[19:04:28] <LeelooMinai> cf or alum?
[19:06:57] <LeelooMinai> You want to cut it by hand or you are looking for CNC router setup or what?
[19:18:37] <codepython777> LeelooMinai: cnc/router setup
[19:18:47] <codepython777> LeelooMinai: preferably both cf and alum cuts
[19:20:01] <Erant> codepython777: CF is nasty.
[19:20:35] <Erant> You need a good vacuum setup, and probably some special endmills.
[19:20:57] <Erant> Outside of that, what's "good accuracy"?
[19:22:52] <codepython777> Erant: 0.1mm would be nice enough for me
[19:23:04] <codepython777> more zeros before the 1, the better
[19:23:25] <codepython777> Erant: under water cutting?
[19:23:39] <Erant> Whatever keeps the dust down.
[19:24:04] <Erant> 0.1mm is fairly easy to achieve.
[19:24:29] <codepython777> Erant: is there a machine in the market one can use, instead of building one's own?
[19:24:55] <Erant> There's a bunch, I don't have a lot of experience with any. Shapeoko comes to mind though
[19:25:53] <witnit> codepython777: where about are you located?
[19:26:33] <codepython777> FL
[19:27:42] <codepython777> Erant: X-carve?
[19:30:03] <Erant> codepython777: Sure.
[19:31:11] <witnit> if you got the room for it codepython777 maybe you could keep your eye out for deals like this? http://www.exfactory.com/Detail.aspx?recnum=RL-010654
[19:31:24] <witnit> though smaller
[19:33:18] <Erant> Hehe.
[19:34:05] <Erant> codepython777: One important thing with CNC routing is tool runout.
[19:34:52] <Erant> codepython777: You'll be using small-ish tools, and those like turning along their axis.
[19:35:14] <Erant> codepython777: http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/
[19:35:18] <Erant> Read that guy
[19:35:33] <Erant> Ignore the resin casting bits, unless you're also looking to do that of course :P
[19:42:09] <codepython777> witnit: that looks pretty expensive - to maintain
[19:43:37] <codepython777> Erant: https://www.rolanddga.com/products/3d/srm-20-small-milling-machine - from your link
[19:43:38] <witnit> input=output :)
[19:44:54] <codepython777> witnit: https://www.rolanddga.com/products/3d/srm-20-small-milling-machine - this looks pretty impressive
[19:45:06] <Erant> codepython777: Roland's good. Also expensive.
[19:45:41] <Erant> I think Carbide3D might be just as good, less expensive.
[19:45:54] <Erant> Certainly a small work-envelope though
[19:47:26] <Erant> I also don't think it does aluminum
[19:48:24] <codepython777> ah i see - you are right, no alum or cf
[19:50:50] <Erant> It's made for precision prototyping, so.
[19:51:10] <codepython777> Erant: so shapeoko is what i should be looking at then?
[19:51:24] <Erant> https://shop.carbide3d.com/collections/machines/products/nomad883?variant=1257580459
[19:51:51] <Erant> I mean, I'd do your research. 24" x 24" means shapeoko is out. X-Carve will work.
[19:52:56] <codepython777> Erant: shopbot?
[19:53:11] <Erant> And because your accuracy requirements are fairly loose, you're OK with a larger workarea.
[19:53:16] <codepython777> Erant: nomad 883 is good for alum i guess?
[19:53:33] <codepython777> shopbot looks pretty expensive
[19:53:48] <codepython777> 24"x 18" - I could live with that
[19:54:01] <witnit> if you are going that size and buying new, you will pay bigtime for heavy cuts and accuracy in the same box
[19:54:53] <codepython777> shopbot is almost touching tormach 770 and 440 machines though
[19:59:30] <Erant> witnit: 'Accuracy' is .1mm here.
[20:00:01] <witnit> oh, thats pretty wide open
[20:00:20] <codepython777> how do 440 and shopbot compare?
[20:01:24] <Erant> They're fundamentally different machines
[20:01:30] <codepython777> Erant: what is the main difference?
[20:01:55] <Erant> Well, one's a CNC router... one's a CNC mill.
[20:02:36] <Erant> Yes, they both cut things, and they're both CNC, but that's roughly where the similarities end.
[20:03:13] <codepython777> so if i want to do metal work, i go with the tormach, if i want to cut sheets, go with shopbot?
[20:03:41] <Erant> Pretty much. Though if you're mostly going for sheet work, I'd consider a laser cutter instead.
[20:04:13] <Erant> Are you doing this as a business?
[20:04:27] <witnit> codepython777: maybe something along these lines? I think they are mostly steel construction anyhow http://www.toolcraftcnc.com/cnc-mini-milling-4np-series.html
[20:05:05] <codepython777> Erant: mostly hobby stuff
[20:05:09] <codepython777> have some money saved
[20:05:24] <codepython777> Erant: laser cutter for alum or CF?
[20:06:38] <Erant> CF. Aluminum's a bit tricky with laser.
[20:07:29] <AndChat|234416> had another good day fabricating forms.
[20:07:45] <Erant> codepython777: Actually, I take that back. What thickness Al are you cutting?
[20:08:33] <codepython777> Erant: a mm or so alum. CF
[20:08:42] <MacGalempsy> https://flic.kr/p/M6gSqH
[20:09:22] <MacGalempsy> just a few more plywood disc and it will be time to pour
[20:09:40] <witnit> MacGalempsy: whatchya doin?
[20:10:22] <MacGalempsy> witnit: just finished making forms.
[20:10:26] <Erant> codepython777: Yeah, that sounds like more a job for a lasercutter.
[20:10:41] <codepython777> Erant: metal cutting laser cutters cost an arm + leg?
[20:11:00] <MacGalempsy> yeah like 500k
[20:12:29] <Erant> Well, otherwise it's a waterjet
[20:13:41] <Erant> Milling sheet metal is a *bleep*
[20:13:59] <MacGalempsy> wish i had a laser to cut all these form discs.
[20:16:19] <Erant> codepython777: Basically, if you wanted to cut mm thick aluminum, you'd have to glue it to something.
[20:24:58] <codepython777> Erant: laser or water jets are expensive, right?
[20:32:39] <MacGalempsy> i would like to build a knockoff of an omax micro
[20:35:00] <XXCoder> JT-i3: how goes it
[20:36:14] <Cromaglious_> metal cutting lasers are YAG's and not cheap
[20:36:42] <XXCoder> add laser diode to your machine
[20:36:50] <XXCoder> and goggles. and surrounds
[20:54:32] <MacGalempsy> someone in here built a galvo. who waa that?
[20:54:47] <XXCoder> not me thats for sure
[20:55:09] <Tom_itx> can't recall
[20:55:28] <codepython777> how expensive and accurate are water jets?
[20:55:32] <MacGalempsy> it wasnt so long ago. a few months at mosy.
[20:56:25] <XXCoder> codepython777: most can be fairly cheap
[20:56:30] <XXCoder> its waterjet thats hard
[20:56:35] <Tom_itx> maybe capn?
[20:56:39] <XXCoder> HUGE amount of psi
[20:57:04] <MacGalempsy> Tom_itx: that is who came to my mind too
[20:57:04] <codepython777> XXCoder: I was looking to cut a few mms of alum or Carbon fiber clean for small projects
[20:57:05] <XXCoder> accuracy well pretty good actually though far below other cnc machines ability
[20:57:16] <codepython777> Was looking at shopbot 3
[20:57:30] <XXCoder> actually I recall there was that kickstarter
[20:57:33] <XXCoder> small waterjet?
[20:57:57] <codepython777> XXCoder: i've no experience with waterjet machines
[20:57:57] <MacGalempsy> its the pump. might as well build a wire edm
[20:58:05] <codepython777> XXCoder: how much do 24" x 24" cutters cost?
[20:58:27] <Tom_itx> <CaptHindsight> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gK14SaaYMoc CNC laser galvo scanner head test
[20:58:35] <XXCoder> not enough experence myself but saw one being ran. very interesting machine. HUGE pump and pressure system
[20:58:51] <MacGalempsy> cnx plasma cutter is pretty popular around here
[20:58:53] <XXCoder> and MacGalempsy is right, pump is HUGE part pof cost
[21:00:37] <MacGalempsy> that omax micro waterjet sets up over a collapsable pool
[21:01:06] <CaptHindsight> Tom_itx: saw that video, but didn't see any configs
[21:02:41] <Tom_itx> hmm
[21:03:13] <CaptHindsight> he also made his own galvos
[21:04:49] <codepython777> XXCoder: what are you doing? What cnc's are you using/
[21:05:20] <XXCoder> cnc router is still down, waiting for parts. im futzing with 3d printer, and now THATS down, due to dead wall outlet
[21:05:57] <XXCoder> few months ago dumbass repairman screwed into wall with much longer screw and screwed into cable./
[21:06:18] <XXCoder> it worked anyway but when removed today screw was removed leaving a gap so outlets dead now
[21:08:09] <CaptHindsight> Tom_itx: he also supposedly created a galvokins.c but no sign of that posted anywhere
[21:14:36] <CaptHindsight> Tom_itx: I see a window that the laser lasses through under the galvos but no f-theta lens to correct the spot geometry
[21:15:24] <CaptHindsight> lasses/passes
[21:16:13] <CaptHindsight> tjtr33: howdy
[21:16:21] <Tom_itx> MacGalempsy was asking
[21:17:24] <MacGalempsy> does galvo just etch, or can it cut thru?
[21:18:19] <CaptHindsight> MacGalempsy: depends on power and materials
[21:18:42] <CaptHindsight> you can get a few hundred watts through a large aperture galvo
[21:19:03] <CaptHindsight> but they get expensive
[21:21:38] <CaptHindsight> loss through a ZnSe lens and off mirrors is <1%, so as power levels get into the hundreds of watts you have to start having to deal with heat
[21:23:20] <CaptHindsight> MacGalempsy: http://www.camtech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=138&Itemid=167 these are 10's of $K's
[22:52:12] <jesseg> hey anyone used those 1.4oz burzomatic oxy/mapp torches? How many hours of welding do you tend to get on an oxygen tank?
[23:44:49] <Cromaglious_> xxnever have used one...
[23:45:31] <Cromaglious_> I just have an acetylene plumbers torch
[23:49:01] <CaptHindsight> jesseg: http://www.lampworketc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-153765.html
[23:49:06] <Cromaglious_> I really want to buy a complete Oxy/Acetylene rig big oxy tank
[23:54:37] <Cromaglious_> 300cf tank
[23:55:05] <Cromaglious_> though a 250 could fit better in the area I have for it