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[00:00:04] <zeeshan-laptop> the fracture line usually goes along the weaker direction
[00:00:07] <zeeshan-laptop> lemme show you a pic
[00:01:10] <zeeshan-laptop> http://i.imgur.com/n8L3RFT.jpg
[00:01:23] <zeeshan-laptop> that is some 5457 aluminum ,
[00:01:30] <zeeshan-laptop> highly anisotropic cause of cold rolling
[00:01:43] <zeeshan-laptop> you can see the direction of rolling by the lines
[00:02:53] <furrywolf> http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/sphere-object-covered-red-cloth-d-illustration-shaped-satin-isolated-white-background-surprise-presentation-concept-37073372.jpg the folds around the edges concentrate stress sharply... the top of the fold is loose, with no tension on it, while the inside of the fold has all the tenstion of trying to hold the center in place.
[00:03:19] <furrywolf> just one of many theories, of course.
[00:03:44] <zeeshan-laptop> you only see the folds
[00:03:51] <zeeshan-laptop> cause it relaxed by the time i took the pic
[00:03:58] <zeeshan-laptop> those folds werent there during the test
[00:04:04] <furrywolf> looking at your picture more, the more I lean towards the sample being of uneven thickness and/or having uneven stretching properties. I don't mean one way vs the other, I mean due to uneven rolling or such.
[00:04:20] <zeeshan-laptop> it does have uneven stretching prpoerties
[00:04:25] <zeeshan-laptop> but that doesnt explain why it didnt fail at the pole
[00:04:33] <zeeshan-laptop> cause the pole has the most amount of strain on it
[00:04:39] <zeeshan-laptop> the material is uneven throughout
[00:04:41] <furrywolf> what if the material was simply thinner or weaker there?
[00:04:43] <zeeshan-laptop> (btw its not uneven)
[00:04:50] <zeeshan-laptop> its .008" uniform
[00:04:52] <furrywolf> more tests. :)
[00:04:55] <zeeshan-laptop> it stretches unevenly
[00:05:00] <zeeshan-laptop> yea im gonna do one again
[00:05:46] <furrywolf> also, compare a test at the shape-holding temperature range, the shape-restoring temperature range, and your theorized remelt temperature range.
[00:08:18] <furrywolf> it might become more isotropic above the remelt temperature
[00:10:38] <furrywolf> bbl, it's past wolfy bedtime again.
[00:15:36] <zeeshan-laptop> noo
[00:15:42] <zeeshan-laptop> i did the test again
[00:15:56] <zeeshan-laptop> http://i.imgur.com/WL6jnjB.jpg
[00:15:58] <furrywolf> and?
[00:16:01] <zeeshan-laptop> heres another one
[00:16:06] <zeeshan-laptop> i took it during the step
[00:16:09] <zeeshan-laptop> so the lines show show
[00:16:17] <zeeshan-laptop> it blew up in multiple spots
[00:16:18] <zeeshan-laptop> lol
[00:16:20] <zeeshan-laptop> completely weird
[00:16:50] <furrywolf> again all aligned with the rolling direction
[00:17:19] <zeeshan-laptop> oh well
[00:17:46] <furrywolf> I think you're assuming the material is more uniform than it actually is.
[00:18:01] <zeeshan-laptop> ive measured it
[00:18:25] <zeeshan-laptop> okay i think its time to head home
[00:18:27] <furrywolf> I think it has some form of significant grain structure, and in addition to a large-scale difference with and across the rolling direction, there's lots of local variation.
[00:19:00] <furrywolf> that is, if you dividied it into tiny pieces and popped each one separately, you'd find a very wide spread of burst pressures
[00:19:54] <zeeshan-laptop> :/
[00:19:57] <furrywolf> however, I also don't think this is really relevant to your actual research, as I don't think it'll affect the shape memory or remelt properties, just the bursting properties, and slight unevenness in the others...
[00:20:22] <furrywolf> unless your research is now about burst pressures rather than the fancy shape memory bit. :)
[00:20:58] <zeeshan-laptop> well i was doing these tests
[00:21:07] <zeeshan-laptop> to know what my limits were for thermocycling pressures
[00:21:14] <zeeshan-laptop> =/
[00:21:17] <furrywolf> random question: does it even take on a mottled/orange peel texture when restoring shape?
[00:21:23] <furrywolf> s/even/ever
[00:21:34] <zeeshan-laptop> you see those lines upon recovery yea
[00:21:55] <furrywolf> if so, that's pretty direct evidence for local variations in properties.
[00:22:06] <zeeshan-laptop> i know that!
[00:22:13] <zeeshan-laptop> it doesnt explain why it randomly fails like that
[00:22:25] <furrywolf> sure it does. some areas are weaker than others. :)
[00:22:26] <zeeshan-laptop> it should happen at the pole
[00:22:28] <zeeshan-laptop> always
[00:22:39] <furrywolf> what if there's weaker areas elsewhere?
[00:22:59] <zeeshan-laptop> i know its not that badly uniform
[00:23:02] <zeeshan-laptop> from uniaxial tests
[00:23:06] <zeeshan-laptop> they elongate to 160%
[00:23:11] <zeeshan-laptop> biaxial should elongate double
[00:23:19] <zeeshan-laptop> so the theory of non uniformity doesnt work
[00:23:45] <zeeshan-laptop> i am almost positive its something to do with my die
[00:23:55] <furrywolf> weaker areas could be popping first... or, STIFFER areas could be causing first pops, by concentrating stress on the normal areas around them. or, if you're near one of the temperature transitions, some parts could be in one temperature mode and some parts in the other...
[00:24:06] <zeeshan-laptop> weaker areas should be failing at 30% strain
[00:24:11] <zeeshan-laptop> on the uniaxial tensile test then
[00:24:14] <zeeshan-laptop> not just under biaxial
[00:25:04] <zeeshan-laptop> i gotta go! you sleep sir!
[00:25:09] <zeeshan-laptop> i need to gtfo this building
[00:25:28] <furrywolf> the last one, slight differences in the temperature transition points at different parts of the material, could be particularly interesting.
[02:24:50] <Jymmm> Stretchwrap... the best invention ever!!!
[02:25:28] <MrSunshine> mm she doesnt smell or anything ...
[02:25:35] <MrSunshine> ehm .. i mean .. yeah the food wraps great in it
[02:28:00] <Deejay__> moin
[02:41:41] <Jymmm> MrSunshine: lol
[02:42:39] <Jymmm> Took apart the gorilla rack and shrinkwrapped the steel
[02:43:49] <Jymmm> Not sure whats heavier, the steel or the partical board shelves
[03:20:10] <eventor> linuxcnc.org is down, any infos ?
[03:22:22] <archivist> known about by some and by the person who pays the bill (a donation)
[07:01:26] <_methods> alright finally got a 5i25/7i76
[07:19:49] <Tom_itx> in hand or on order?
[07:20:37] <_methods> on order
[07:20:51] <_methods> there were 11 of the plugngo kits available
[07:21:27] <Tom_itx> should get my junk today
[07:21:44] <_methods> what did you order?
[07:21:47] <Tom_itx> spare board and parts to fix this one
[07:21:50] <_methods> ahh
[07:22:01] <_methods> how'd you smoke it?
[07:22:16] <Tom_itx> so i should end up with 2.5 possible systems
[07:22:26] <Tom_itx> no, actually 3 now
[07:22:33] <_methods> nice
[07:22:54] <Tom_itx> was testing and one of those cheap chinese 5v regs gave up
[07:23:03] <_methods> ahhh
[07:23:07] <Tom_itx> went to 23v
[07:23:23] <_methods> oh wow
[07:23:28] <_methods> yeah that'll do it
[07:23:43] <Tom_itx> i was nearly done with it too
[07:24:01] <_methods> ouch
[07:24:29] <skunkworks> crow bar!
[07:24:55] <_methods> air compressor and tig rig next
[07:27:50] <_methods> then plasma and plasma table
[07:27:52] <_methods> gettin there
[07:46:55] <Tom_itx> skunkworks, yes i need to make one for it
[07:48:19] <Tom_itx> do i want 5v or just above 5v?
[07:51:22] <skunkworks> a bit above 5 volts. 5.5 or 6
[07:53:11] <Tom_itx> do you use a zenner or something else for it?
[07:55:11] <Tom_itx> hefty zenner to pop a fuse if it goes above the v
[07:58:07] <archivist_herron> the sensing for a good crowbar then fires a thyristor or power transistor to short the supply and blow the fuse
[07:58:33] <skunkworks> I have used scr's
[07:59:32] <Tom_itx> http://www.circuitstoday.com/5v-power-supply-with-overvoltage-protection
[07:59:38] <Tom_itx> that one shows a 5.6v zenner
[07:59:46] <Tom_itx> back to the scr
[08:00:40] <skunkworks> so it would fire at about 6ish volts
[08:01:00] <Tom_itx> wonder if i should go a bit lower
[08:01:49] <skunkworks> I would be ok with 6 volts.. but you might want to ask others. Usually it is for a catostrofic failure.
[08:02:01] <skunkworks> the regulator is going to regulate until that point.
[08:02:17] <Tom_itx> they used a triac there, i've got a few of those around
[08:03:45] <archivist_herron> 5.2 is the max quoted in some places
[08:04:52] <Tom_itx> yeah i was gonna say alot of parts max is 5.5v
[08:05:58] <Tom_itx> in that case, once the triac fires it will stay on
[08:06:20] <_methods> theoretically
[08:06:23] <_methods> lol
[08:06:25] <Tom_itx> heh
[08:11:02] <archivist_herron> remains on until the smoke gets out the fuse or something
[08:11:34] <Tom_itx> right
[08:12:44] <archivist_herron> just size the part to handle the fuse failure time and potential current from the capacitors
[08:14:46] <Tom_itx> i've got some 6A triacs here somewhere i used on my toaster oven that should work
[08:22:33] <Tom_itx> unfortunately all i've got are 4.7v zenners
[08:23:19] <Tom_itx> maybe i could fake it with a couple diode drops in series
[08:50:20] <_methods> omg i bet this is entertaining
[08:50:22] <_methods> http://makezine.com/2015/07/10/introduction-programmable-logic-controllers-plcs/
[08:55:46] <archivist_herron> ! 1968....... erm relays were in computers in the 1930's rofl
[09:02:44] <_methods> gotta love MAKE-believe magazine
[09:03:50] <archivist_herron> daydreamerzine
[09:03:56] <_methods> yeah
[09:08:42] <archivist_herron> it is amusing how many things get re invented
[09:12:20] <_methods> those who don't know history..............
[09:13:40] <_methods> i guess now the saying should be amended to
[09:13:54] <_methods> those who don't know how to use google are doomed to repeat history lol
[09:21:47] <archivist_herron> hehe
[09:22:13] <archivist_herron> or have a library or go and use one
[09:26:13] <archivist_herron> just skimming the new patent pages from a 1904 and 1905 set of bound volumes of The Engineer I found ideas I had seen recently
[09:27:54] <archivist_herron> funniest was a series of posters on the underground wall to make a movie as the train came into the station
[09:28:20] <furrywolf> lol
[09:29:37] <CaptHindsight> do you really want informed critical thinkers running around in crony capitalist society?
[09:34:31] <_methods> plants need 'lectrolytes
[09:36:11] <greg> CaptHindsight, just power at home single phase, so delta. 126.6/252.6V today. I'm trying to decide if that will be OK for my Emco which asks for 230±5%.
[09:39:36] <CaptHindsight> greg: Emco lathe? CNC or manual?
[09:39:56] <greg> PCMill 125
[09:40:53] <greg> the previous PCMill 100 called for 230V+10-5%
[09:41:14] <furrywolf> that's unrealistic.
[09:41:25] <furrywolf> real world power is worse than +/-10%.
[09:42:18] <greg> US power is supposed to be ±5%
[09:42:36] <greg> 120/240V
[09:43:44] <CaptHindsight> any news on linuxcnc.org?
[09:44:29] <furrywolf> local power company says 106-127 is normal.
[09:44:35] <SWPLinux> working on it (for small values of working)
[09:44:40] <CaptHindsight> SWPLinux to the rescue
[09:45:12] <furrywolf> hrmm, yes, it does seem to be down, doesn't it? lol
[09:46:12] <furrywolf> NEMA specs +/-10%
[09:46:43] <CaptHindsight> I'm still waiting for the Emco manual to download
[09:46:55] <greg> I saw 5% from NEMA
[09:46:58] <CaptHindsight> some more minutes
[09:47:35] <greg> I have the manuals and all. The older machines were very picky about voltage. I'm just not sure about this one.
[09:48:01] <CaptHindsight> it is a 50Hz machine?
[09:48:22] <greg> but the older machines were made for 220 being run on our 240
[09:48:26] <greg> 50/60
[09:48:50] <furrywolf> another page from the local powerco specs 104.4-127.2 as normal..
[09:49:08] <CaptHindsight> it should be fine, but what do you mean by "picky"?
[09:49:20] <greg> like they error and wouldn't run
[09:49:28] <_methods> yeah i've had that before too
[09:49:35] <CaptHindsight> burst into flame if 11% over picky?
[09:49:37] <_methods> not with emco
[09:49:47] <furrywolf> sounds like defective equipment. :)
[09:49:52] <_methods> but yeah i've had machines that if you were over they would error out
[09:49:58] <_methods> or under
[09:50:00] <CaptHindsight> poor design
[09:50:29] <furrywolf> my generator seems to target >125ish, only sagging to 120 at full load...
[09:50:32] <_methods> well in the morning before all the local plants fired up we'd be +20% some times
[09:50:55] <_methods> once some stuff started running it'd drop down to nominal and the mill would fire up fine
[09:51:15] <furrywolf> "IEC 61000-2-2 mentions that the normal operational tolerances are ± 10% of the declared voltage. This is the basis of requirements for voltage regulation in EN 50160 for the European Community. EN 50160 requires that voltage regulation be within ± 10% for 95% of the 10 minute samples in a one week period, and that all 10 minute samples be within -15% to +10%, excluding voltage dips. "
[09:51:25] <furrywolf> I've always heard +/-10...
[09:51:44] <furrywolf> _methods: I once got 145 at my last house for a few hours...
[09:51:51] <_methods> yeah it happens
[09:51:51] <furrywolf> (on a 120v nominal)
[09:52:05] <CaptHindsight> run it through a #18 25' extension cord
[09:52:12] <_methods> heheh
[09:52:20] <greg> voltage will still be high at low currents
[09:52:22] <CaptHindsight> the voltage drop should keep it closer to 5%
[09:52:41] <furrywolf> if I need regulated voltage, I have a ferroresonant voltage regulator in storage...
[09:52:53] <_methods> i would just make sure at that shop as soon as i came in i fired up the lasers and their chillers
[09:53:03] <_methods> that would drop it right down lol
[09:53:30] <furrywolf> I currently have 122.0V, but as power here comes from an inverter, that doesn't mean much. :)
[09:53:47] <greg> are you off gird?
[09:53:59] <furrywolf> yes
[09:55:14] <furrywolf> FX port 1, inv 1.0A, chg 0.0A, buy 0.0A, sell 0.0A, load 1.0A, in 0.0V, out 122.0V, batt 23.2V, mode 2, ac 0, error 0x00, warning 0x00, misc 0x08.
[09:56:58] <CaptHindsight> greg:
http://www.machinetoolsalesonline.com/uploads/370/IMG_3220.jpg is this it?
[09:58:00] <greg> poking around the machine yesterday checking schematics, found a couple discrepancies??, and found a coolant tank and pump in the cabinet that was never connected or plumbed! I hadn't loooked under the front covers.
[09:58:01] <greg> yes
[09:58:24] <_methods> nice little machine
[09:58:27] <CaptHindsight> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f11/142220d1435001534-emco-pc-mill-125-power-rpc-w-w-o-transformer-power_schematic.jpg
[09:58:43] <greg> yeah that's me
[09:58:53] * furrywolf wants a nice machine
[09:59:31] <greg> I waited a long time to find one locally
[09:59:58] <CaptHindsight> heh, looks like your posting
[10:01:44] <greg> the Euro 400V is Wye with N. so when setup that way 230 1P gets distributed to the various components in the machine. It looks like it will be a significant amount of rewiring to make it take single phase input.
[10:01:46] <CaptHindsight> 230V to 90V and 18V transformer, the primary has a taps for 5% + _
[10:02:04] <greg> Emco was very helpful with manuals and schematics
[10:02:09] <greg> right
[10:03:19] <greg> all the drives are emco proprietary or it would be easy to figure out if it will run on 250+V
[10:04:08] <furrywolf> boost/buck transformers (of the mains variety, not the identically-named dc-dc topologies) are pretty cheap.
[10:04:16] <CaptHindsight> are you going to rewire for single phase anyway?
[10:04:48] <MrFluffy> isnt a buck boost ac transformer just named "transformer"?
[10:05:00] <skunkworks> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iNn9Jv5_h64
[10:05:21] <SpeedEvil> MrFluffy: a buck/boost can be specifically configured to precise ratios
[10:05:26] <skunkworks> and a realtime error on the screen..
[10:05:36] <CaptHindsight> shocking
[10:06:04] <furrywolf> MrFluffy: no, they're special transformers designed for raising/lowering the voltage some small amount, such as 5% or 10%. either autotransformers or isolated transformers intended to be wired as autotransformers...
[10:06:24] <skunkworks> that's moving suprisingly fast
[10:06:27] <greg> I'm going to trace a wire that doesn't match the schematic and decide. I'd have to make sure all the L1,L2,L3,N conncetions are moved to L1,L2.
[10:08:28] <MrFluffy> Oh ok, I always figured that was what the windings ratios on isolated transformers were about. Ive only ever heard of buck/boost in the dc world.
[10:09:15] <furrywolf> "my voltage isn't quite right" is a common complaint, and a product exists for that. :)
[10:09:52] <greg> Right the buck boost would be the solution if it won't run.
[10:10:45] <_methods> hmm never seen an edm running that wasn't submerged
[10:11:14] <MrFluffy> I have a edm that runs dry tank...
[10:11:15] <CaptHindsight> the wire or the whole machine?
[10:11:28] <MrFluffy> the wire still flushes, just the drain on the tank is open
[10:11:55] <_methods> every edm i've ever dealt with had submerged table
[10:12:04] <_methods> i thought it had to be submerged lol
[10:12:09] <_methods> shows you how much i know about edm
[10:12:13] <MrFluffy> it means you can do stupid things like leave half the tank off to get weird shaped objects inside, water ejecting in strange places aside
[10:12:38] <MrFluffy> its slower though because the flushing can be poorer
[10:14:32] <MrFluffy> mine is a sodick bf275, theres a vid of it cutting something on youtube...
[10:19:03] <CaptHindsight> http://www.edm-products.com/Dielectrics/ifase/ifase_4.htm At first they used ordinary air as a dielectric. Very soon it became clear, however, that liquid mineral oil derivatives had considerable advantages.
[10:20:21] <MrFluffy> thats sinker isnt it?
[10:20:47] <MrFluffy> wire is water dielectric normally, maybe the oldest wires are oil but the ones Ive seen have all been die sinkers with oil dielectric
[10:22:19] <MrFluffy> mine :-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1KA9JqOtAo
[10:24:31] <CaptHindsight> there are all sorts of dielectric fluids for EDM, they all have their claims on which is better and for what application
[10:25:33] <MrFluffy> water has the great advantage that you never have to worry about it being on fire :)
[10:28:36] <MrFluffy> you can get subtanks which fit around the part to run submerged even on a dry tank machine
[10:29:03] <MrFluffy> C frames for the wire heads to get into awkward places, all sorts of adaptions
[10:30:10] <furrywolf> so far I haven't needed an EDM machine... which is good, because they seem even more expensive than all the other machines I can't afford.
[10:30:28] <MrFluffy> mine had been on fire, so was its weight in scrap
[10:30:40] <MrFluffy> sodick had written it off as unrepairable...
[10:30:55] <MrFluffy> soditech in the uk anyway
[10:31:50] <MrFluffy> CaptHindsight, it says oil for carbides on a wire, just reading it, I dont cut much in the way of carbide on it though
[10:35:32] <membiblio> hey guys - what is up with linuxcnc.org today specifically this url?
http://linuxcnc.org/index.php/english/forum/49-basic-configuration/27724-homing-a-dual-motor-for-one-axis-gantry-machine
[10:35:33] <CaptHindsight> http://machinedesign.com does this always load really slow for just me?
[10:35:53] <cradek> membiblio: the whole website is down and we're working on it as fast as we can
[10:35:53] <CaptHindsight> membiblio: website under repair
[10:36:47] <membiblio> ok no problem :) 'stuff' happens
[10:37:00] <cradek> yes unfortunately
[10:37:53] <membiblio> Is this associated with the not-hack of United, Wall St. Journal, etc?
[10:37:55] <furrywolf> membiblio: google's cache and/or the wayback machine might have a copy, if you need to read that page
[10:38:10] <membiblio> Hey Furry - that is a great idea - thank you.
[10:38:27] <furrywolf> http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:4tng52b2BwoJ:linuxcnc.org/index.php/english/forum/49-basic-configuration/27724-homing-a-dual-motor-for-one-axis-gantry-machine+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
[10:40:35] <membiblio> This is why *some* people say 9 heads are better than 2
[10:47:39] <PetefromTn_> Damn I think I overlooked something here...
[10:48:15] <archivist> it's Friday?
[10:48:19] <PetefromTn_> I bought this aluminum degreaser for my parts and it has a mixture ratio of course but what I did not notice is that apparently it also has to be heater
[10:48:22] <PetefromTn_> heated
[10:48:44] <PetefromTn_> I am trying to get this all setup so I can attempt an anodizing of a test part
[10:48:56] <PetefromTn_> says it needs 130 degrees
[10:49:27] <PetefromTn_> I only bought one hot plate for the setup
[10:49:28] <archivist> you can use the current you pass through the items as part of the heating
[10:49:51] <PetefromTn_> there will be no current passing thru this bath as it is the first bath just to clean the parts
[10:50:48] <archivist> at the plant I worked at it had a heating system (steam iirc)
[10:50:53] <PetefromTn_> I was also going to setup the anodizing bath with a 50/50 ratio of acid to water planning on four gallons of each but I am finding that thre gallons of each is probably going to be plenty so that is good
[10:51:52] <PetefromTn_> worst part is I spent a bunch of money on all of this and I am kinda tapped out now so going and buying more stuff is not really an option at this point.
[10:51:53] <furrywolf> fisktank heaters
[10:52:44] <CaptHindsight> warmer is better but it will still have some activity at room temp
[10:52:58] <archivist> without heating stuff takes longer and less evaporation
[10:53:15] <PetefromTn_> I am sure.. actually the fish tank heaters do not appear to be all that pricey they even have some at Wal mart
[10:53:47] <PetefromTn_> no idea whether they can withstand the chemical in the sealer and degreaser baths
[10:53:58] <ssi> they're cheap enough that it's worth a shot :)
[10:54:46] <archivist> kep the plastic and wire out the bath just leave the glass immersed
[10:55:38] <CaptHindsight> don't use the included suction cup for mounting
[10:55:43] <PetefromTn_> sure it says they MAINTAIN the temperature I wonder if they have some sort of rheostat or whatever on them. that would be nice. have never even seen one before
[10:56:14] <ssi> they have a thermostat in them, yes
[10:56:20] <archivist> fish tank include a thermostat probably run too cool
[10:56:32] <CaptHindsight> oops, you don't want a heater set at 78F from the factory
[10:56:49] <PetefromTn_> the degreaser bath needs to see 130 degrees F the sealer needs to be 200-210 degrees F
[10:57:15] <CaptHindsight> I could find a heating blanket that didn't have an auto shutoff after 10 hours
[10:57:17] <PetefromTn_> are they all set to max at 78F
[10:57:35] <CaptHindsight> could not
[10:57:40] <archivist> ever seen fish at 130?
[10:57:53] <MrFluffy> In the chippy :)
[10:57:54] <CaptHindsight> slightly blanched
[10:58:05] <_methods> poached salmon?
[10:58:09] * furrywolf suspects a jumper wire can fix the thermostat nicely
[10:58:25] <ssi> http://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Submersible-Heater-300-Watt/dp/B006QI8304/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436542491&sr=8-2&keywords=fish+tank+heater
[10:58:25] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: I use things that look like fishtank heaters to heat all of the tanks
[10:58:28] <ssi> that one goes to 93F
[10:58:29] <PetefromTn_> yeah not too good for the goldfish heh
[10:58:29] <furrywolf> CaptHindsight: electric blankets have auto-shutoffs now?
[10:58:30] <MrFluffy> I had one that had a knob you adjusted, but irrc it only altered over a 10deg range or something
[10:58:49] <CaptHindsight> Range of temperature adjustment: 20~34°C
[10:58:51] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: Also, it really helps to have aeration in them
[10:59:01] <furrywolf> again, just disable the thermostat... or plier-mangle it to a different temperature range.
[10:59:02] <_methods> couldn't you just heat the water before you put it in?
[10:59:22] <CaptHindsight> do they have a metric aluminum cleaner?
[10:59:56] <PetefromTn_> apparently the degreaser bath is only supposed to be 3-10 minutes of submersion
[10:59:59] <ssi> yea the metric stuff only needs to be 40C
[10:59:59] <MrFluffy> what about a homebrew fermenting heater?
[11:00:27] <PetefromTn_> so I suppose I could heat the water on the stove and add until the temp is reached.
[11:00:34] <MrFluffy> too cold.. just reading
[11:00:51] <furrywolf> get a small pump, some chemically-compatible tubing, and circulate a glycol loop between the tank with a heater and the tank that needs heat. :)
[11:01:27] <PetefromTn_> I am trying to do this WITHOUT additional costs. Already spent a bunch of money here. I am tapped out right now.
[11:01:29] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: That can work
[11:01:32] <CaptHindsight> how far down until the earths mantle is a consistent 130F?
[11:01:37] <PetefromTn_> I can add some of these niceties later on
[11:01:38] <os1r1s> heating on a stove
[11:01:57] <PetefromTn_> what a bunch of smartasses sheesh ;)
[11:02:14] <furrywolf> PetefromTn_: get a big lump of metal (most shops have many of these), heat it on the stove, then sit in the tank. :)
[11:02:36] <zeeshan> set it on fire
[11:02:43] <PetefromTn_> I think just heating the water is fine for now
[11:03:03] <PetefromTn_> since the temp control duration is only 3-10 minutes for the part
[11:03:07] <zeeshan> 130f isn't a lot
[11:03:11] * furrywolf would do some math to see what the thermal capacity of 20lbs of steel is and how hot you'd need to heat it to raise the temperature of some number of gallons by 40 degrees, but is lazy.
[11:03:17] <zeeshan> circulate your water heater water through it
[11:03:17] <zeeshan> :D
[11:03:49] <PetefromTn_> I guess I knew better than to ask this kind of question in here.
[11:03:53] <zeeshan> furrywolf: that isn't a simple problem :")
[11:03:57] <furrywolf> zeeshan-lab:
http://i.imgur.com/WL6jnjB.jpg looking at the surface, especially visible at the specular reflection, it has numerous defects, looking like small craters... it's probably just popping at these first?
[11:04:18] <zeeshan> furrywolf: those craters werent there before
[11:04:21] <zeeshan> thats localized necking happening
[11:04:25] <SpeedEvil> furrywolf: To a very handy degree - the thermal capacity of everything is about constant per cubic whatever
[11:04:29] <zeeshan> im meeting with the supervisor today
[11:04:35] <CaptHindsight> yes, thermal equilibrium, just use the mass of the water and the hunk of heated steel
http://www.ux1.eiu.edu/~cfadd/1150/12Temptr/equilibrium.html
[11:04:45] <zeeshan> hes gonna give me a lecture on it
[11:04:45] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: I use these in all of my non-acid tanks ...
http://www.omega.com/Heaters/images/ARMTI2_HEATER_l.jpg
[11:04:45] <zeeshan> lol
[11:05:06] * furrywolf could give zee some lecturing too. :P
[11:05:07] <PetefromTn_> is that a water heater element?
[11:05:18] <zeeshan> PetefromTn_: those cartridge heaters are expensive
[11:05:25] <zeeshan> i found an alternative when building my apparatus
[11:05:38] <PetefromTn_> everything I need to do this is expensive except the damn water LOL
[11:05:45] <SpeedEvil> furrywolf:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity#Table_of_specific_heat_capacities - from about 1.3-3 for solids - joules per cubic centimeter per K
[11:05:55] <furrywolf> go to a yard sale, get a random hotplate / electric grill / etc, silicone wiring well, stuff in tank? :)
[11:05:56] <zeeshan> like you can do the mathto figure out what size heater you need to maintain that temp
[11:06:07] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: Yeah
[11:06:08] <os1r1s> 2000w
[11:06:08] <zeeshan> but lets say you went overkill and just bought a 750watt
[11:06:23] <zeeshan> http://www.mcmaster.com/#3618k386/=xzr02w
[11:06:27] <zeeshan> only 30 bux
[11:06:37] <zeeshan> trhose immersion style i couldnt find cheaper than 150
[11:06:37] <PetefromTn_> I have a hotplate and stainless pot for the sealer tank
[11:06:37] <furrywolf> he's using insulated coolers... he has quite low thermal losses as long as the lid is on...
[11:06:52] <os1r1s> furrywolf: He still has to get it to temp
[11:07:01] <os1r1s> furrywolf: And in some cases hold for 10-15
[11:07:11] <SpeedEvil> furrywolf: Iron - per unit volume - is about 80% of that of watrer
[11:07:36] <furrywolf> PetefromTn_: what's your opinion on exothermic chemical reactions occouring in your degreasing bath? :P
[11:07:43] <zeeshan> SpeedEvil: you still need to know the convective heat transfer coefficient
[11:07:47] <zeeshan> which is the harder part :P
[11:08:04] <zeeshan> and if you ask the question "how long will it take"
[11:08:06] <zeeshan> it becomes even harder :P
[11:08:20] <furrywolf> PetefromTn_: got some MREs? dump a few FRHs into it. :)
[11:08:28] <SpeedEvil> zeeshan: Steel doesn't convect very well
[11:08:34] <PetefromTn_> furrywolf my feeling is I could give a rats ass as long as it works right
[11:08:51] <furrywolf> lol
[11:08:52] <CaptHindsight> zeeshan: just add a propeller to circulate the water
[11:09:09] <zeeshan> CaptHindsight: that makes the mathematical model even more complicated
[11:09:13] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: I used some scrap alum with aquarium tubing to serve as a bubbler
[11:09:15] <zeeshan> now you probably need cfd to solve it :)
[11:09:22] <furrywolf> most of my MREs are probably expired... meh
[11:09:27] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: In all of the tanks. Its cheap and was easy
[11:09:29] <os1r1s> fwiw
[11:09:45] <SpeedEvil> CaptHindsight: Coincidentally.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191423803099?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
[11:09:56] <PetefromTn_> I am planning to add some PVC pipe bubblers here as soon as I can
[11:10:10] <SpeedEvil> CaptHindsight: The second largest ~8l neatly fits inside the 11l one.
[11:10:18] <PetefromTn_> right now I need to get the degreaser bath heated sufficiently
[11:10:21] <CaptHindsight> zeeshan: but all he needs to know it the thermal equilibrium and the approximate time to reach it
[11:10:30] <SpeedEvil> Add water to the outside, stick on stove, add small pump
[11:10:54] <PetefromTn_> that is what I am using for the sealer bath since the heat is almost boiling
[11:11:00] <zeeshan> the approach im proposing gets you within +/-10%
[11:11:01] <zeeshan> :P
[11:11:04] <PetefromTn_> did not figure the cooler would survive that
[11:13:24] <CaptHindsight> http://www.instructables.com/id/Sous-vide-cooker-for-less-than-40/
[11:14:05] <PetefromTn_> Hey a crock pot!
[11:14:21] <PetefromTn_> not a bad idea really and some are rather large
[11:14:22] <CaptHindsight> http://www.amazon.com/VacMaster-SV1-Sous-Immersion-Circulator/dp/B00HFDPM6W
[11:15:16] <Pudlo> How sketchy is this?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-1-8-High-Quality-Cnc-Bits-Single-Flute-Spiral-Router-Carbide-End-Mill-Cutter-Tools/32329709414.html
[11:15:25] <CaptHindsight> what was that water jet bath that used to be on TV late at night in the 60's/70's?
[11:16:02] <Pudlo> would I be crazy to consider it? Or am I gonna get something made of chinesium?
[11:17:56] <archivist> some stuff is cheap enough not to care too much. if they work its a win
[11:18:31] <MrFluffy> I have got my sticky hands on a tea urn for such duties. but I imagine theyre few and far between in anywhere but the uk :)
[11:19:15] <archivist> http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/burco-boiler
[11:19:41] <MrFluffy> thats the one archivist
[11:19:50] <archivist> every tea and buns event has one in the tent
[11:20:09] <PetefromTn_> jeez I should have bought some of those instead of the damn coolers...
[11:20:13] <ssi> I want to go to a tea and buns event!
[11:20:30] <PetefromTn_> hehe
[11:20:52] <CaptHindsight> if you google that will you get what you expect?
[11:21:17] <ssi> apparently so
[11:21:33] <ssi> http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3186/3094203953_a1a4d5ce99_o.jpg
[11:21:47] <MrFluffy> you can go listen to poetry at a buns and roses event too
[11:22:49] <archivist> hot cross buns!
[11:23:54] <MrFluffy> they have a simmerstat which cycles the on off time of the element and the control adjusts the duration
[11:24:31] <PetefromTn_> those would probably have been damn near perfect for this.
[11:24:33] <MrFluffy> thats the original burco's, probably they come with a thermostat now
[11:24:43] <PetefromTn_> shame nobody ever MENTIONED IT BEFORE!!!
[11:24:48] <MrFluffy> dont you just need the heating element from one?
[11:25:50] * PetefromTn_ meanders back out to the shop mumbling about freaking heating elements
[11:28:36] * MrFluffy wonders if they leave hot water cylinders that have developed a leak in the dump ready for raiding of the heating element and thermostat from...
[11:28:47] <MrFluffy> but then, I have deep pockets and short arms
[11:31:00] <archivist> I am using a hotplate element for my bluing "kiln"
[11:40:31] <MrFluffy> dishwasher or washing machine element too, so many junk possibilities
[11:41:05] <MrFluffy> you'd need a seperate thermal cutout setup for them though
[11:53:41] <CaptHindsight> we use the Sous Vide heaters for small tanks
[11:54:38] <CaptHindsight> http://www.instructables.com/id/Hack-an-aquarium-heater-to-be-always-on/
[11:59:16] <archivist> damn this feels dirty for my elcheapo cnc probe
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arduino-Pro-Mini-5v-16MHZ-CH340-CH340G-USB-to-TTL-Serial-Adapter-UK-SELLER-/251742349460
[11:59:44] <archivist> but it is tiny
[11:59:50] <CaptHindsight> they work
[12:00:23] <archivist> that seller is a mere 10 miles from me
[12:06:36] <CaptHindsight> http://www.linuxcnc.org/ also working again \0/
[12:07:06] <archivist> thanks to SWPLinux :)
[12:29:29] <CaptHindsight> anyone try these yet?
http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/ac-servo-motors/the-ac-servo-driver-ac-servo-motor-400w-set
[12:29:49] <CaptHindsight> http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/ac-servo-motors/servo-driversimdrive-servo-motor-750w-set
[12:30:04] <CaptHindsight> http://www.cs-lab.eu/en/produkt-31,3-simDriveAC_Servo_400W_325V_Model_M4H040K.html anyone ever heard of/used them?
[12:30:18] <CaptHindsight> tjtr33 have you seen these at Keiling yet?
[13:27:05] * jt-mobile is at Eagle River
[13:27:44] * archivist is home alone
[13:27:52] <jt-mobile> We got to see humpback whales and moose yesterday
[13:28:13] <_methods> i hope you killed them
[13:28:40] <jt-mobile> Not allowed unless you are a native
[13:29:02] <_methods> but but it's 'murrica
[13:29:13] <_methods> it's your god given right to kill wild animals
[13:29:33] <_methods> no matter what continent you are on
[13:29:35] * archivist shoots _methods
[13:29:39] <_methods> lol
[13:29:44] <jt-mobile> lol
[13:29:47] <_methods> sorry i'm domesticated any more
[13:35:04] <_methods> hehe
[14:40:46] <cncjerry> cradek? home? cncjerry here, I fixed my post processor problem from yesterday. turns out i was only changing the decimal places for x,y,z and not i,j,k. that only took 20hrs.
[14:41:21] <cncjerry> new question: my post spits out a 'H' code on tool changes, anyway to get linuxcnc 2.6.8 to ignore it?
[14:41:50] <cradek> what's it look like?
[14:42:16] <cncjerry> N0004 Z.5000 H001
[14:42:31] <cradek> hm
[14:42:32] <cncjerry> I think it is selecting from a height table
[14:42:37] <cradek> what's the previous line?
[14:42:59] <cncjerry> N0003 G0 X.8125 Y1.0000 S70 M3
[14:43:18] <cradek> there's no tool change?
[14:43:22] <cncjerry> and right before that is the tool change: N0002 T01 M6
[14:43:31] <cradek> oh ok
[14:43:51] <cradek> so it wants to load the tool offset and go 0.5 above the work
[14:44:01] <cncjerry> yes
[14:44:05] <cradek> N4 needs to include a G43
[14:44:21] <cncjerry> before the h?
[14:44:26] <cradek> sure
[14:44:32] <cradek> doesn't matter but it needs to be there
[14:44:53] <cncjerry> that would correct the error? not familiar with that
[14:45:11] <cradek> yeah they mean something like G43 H1 G0 Z0.5
[14:45:23] <cncjerry> right now I just delete the h0001 manually as I am not using a table
[14:45:47] <cncjerry> I would like emc to just ignore it.
[14:45:49] <cradek> well you'll have to use tool lengths eventually...
[14:46:10] <cncjerry> yep, but haven't on this machine since it was installed in 2006
[14:46:41] * cradek shrugs
[14:46:43] <greg> Why not remove the H from the post?
[14:46:54] <cradek> or fix it by adding G43
[14:47:12] <cncjerry> I can't find my IMS post processor application that would allow me to just take that out. another casualty of my hd failure.
[14:47:37] <greg> IMS won't help you?
[14:48:18] <cncjerry> I have it backed up somewhere. have to look for it. it is the most complicated software I own. haven't called them. they charge a bundle for support the last I looked. they'll say, load up the ims post application and take it out.
[14:49:38] <cncjerry> i'm milling pockets in copper plate today. what a mess.
[14:50:01] <cncjerry> these are for 1Ghz cavity filters. haven't milled copper in a long time.
[14:50:31] <cncjerry> someone said to use milk as a fluid, yeh, right, putrid milk under my bedroom.
[14:52:12] <cradek> copper is terrible
[14:52:33] <cncjerry> anyway, thanks for the yearly support, all else is well. talk to you next time I have a hd failure.
[14:52:48] <cradek> welcome. perhaps consider backups.
[14:53:07] <greg> just don't do it like I did and crash your drive doing the backup
[14:53:19] <greg> I did a reinstall last week
[14:53:37] <cncjerry> ' I don't need no stinkin backup' actually I had one. the problem was I decided to change to win7 from xp. that's where all the problems started.
[14:54:03] <cradek> never heard of those
[14:54:45] <cncjerry> then I needed the updated from 2.3 to 2.5 because the old planner was giving me scallops on high speed arcs. never figured out why. could have been some stupid resonance. it went downhill from there.
[15:01:30] <_methods> i've heard a few people swear by kerosene for lube with copper
[15:02:01] <_methods> i did see where some guys had been told the same thing and filled their coolant tank with kerosene
[15:02:04] <ssi> cncjerry: I like to keep my linuxcnc configs in a github repository
[15:02:11] <ssi> they're code as far as I'm concerned
[15:02:13] <_methods> that didn't go so well
[15:03:58] <_methods> i've personally always just stuck with swisslube and kept my feeds and speeds on teh conservative side
[15:06:07] <cradek> I've cut it slowly (like 50 sfm) under oil and it's ok
[15:06:37] <_methods> it can be problematic that is for sure
[15:06:49] <_methods> but i've found once you get your feeds and speeds right it cuts just fine
[15:06:59] <_methods> sometimes can take some jiggery pokery
[15:07:35] <cradek> heh
[15:14:32] <_methods> i've never tried milk though lol
[15:14:56] <_methods> wonder if buttermilk would be better
[15:15:01] <_methods> or maybe yogurt
[15:15:02] <cradek> ewwww
[15:15:05] <_methods> hahahahah
[15:15:13] <_methods> sour cream
[15:15:21] <_methods> ice cream
[15:15:22] <cradek> melted butter
[15:15:26] <_methods> one scoop for you
[15:15:29] <_methods> one scoop for me
[15:15:48] <_methods> be nice having an ice cream dispenser at your cnc station
[15:16:05] <cradek> imagining ice cream through loc-line
[15:16:10] <_methods> hahahahhah
[15:16:26] <cradek> you'd need a special hydraulic pump
[15:17:09] <_methods> probably lol
[15:17:35] <_methods> mount soft serve ice cream machine to the top of your machine
[15:21:19] <greg> I think i used lamp oil (kerosene) when I worked with some copper
[15:22:03] <greg> lamp oil doesn't stink, i use it on aluminum particularly when parting in the lathe
[15:26:54] <CaptHindsight> milk burns at a pretty low temp, how do you keep it from burning?
[15:28:20] <CaptHindsight> maybe a softserve nozzle since it dispenses at under 0C
[15:28:53] <CaptHindsight> and most softserve doesn't contain much milk
[15:33:03] <SWPLinux> or even food
[15:38:56] <furrywolf> so, new stainless steel ultrasonic cleaners from china cost about the same as used, older american ones... anyone ever used them? they any good? ones like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-6L-ULTRASONIC-CLEANER-DIGITAL-ELEGANT-STURDY-PACKAGE-Top-Quality-/291285997257
[15:52:43] <greg> I have a 2.6L for a few years now. Takes hours to warm up to 150°F, I use a ceramic heater.
[15:53:27] <furrywolf> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRASONIC-CLEANER-6L-6-L-LITER-STAINLESS-STEEL-INDUSTRY-HEATED-BRACKET-W-TIMER-/181434466620
[15:53:36] <furrywolf> is yours china or name brand?
[15:53:46] <greg> china
[15:53:59] <furrywolf> I'll only be using it for cleaning tools and car parts, not for industrial use or daily stuff.
[15:54:00] <greg> programming is dumb, when the timer runs out the heater turns off
[15:54:16] <furrywolf> my current one isn't heated
[15:54:41] <greg> works much better when hot
[15:54:46] <furrywolf> and it works great, so not worried about any heater-related things.
[15:55:01] <furrywolf> mine ends up hot after a few hours... heat from the transducer and ultrasound. heh.
[15:55:11] <greg> maybe mine sucks, I have a feeling it just doesn't work well
[15:55:33] <greg> I'm tempted to get a use US make
[15:55:39] <furrywolf> how is the actual ultrasonic performance, and how long have you used it without it breaking?
[15:56:02] <greg> I don't ahve anythign to compare to
[15:56:19] <furrywolf> heh
[15:56:33] <furrywolf> put in a piece of aluminum foil and time how long before it goes away. :)
[15:56:35] <greg> I've had it for at least 4 years
[15:56:45] <greg> gets occasional use
[15:57:04] <furrywolf> I'm always impressed how mine makes foil vanish.
[15:57:55] <greg> I don't think i've ever tried that
[15:58:19] <furrywolf> try it. it's cool. :P
[16:22:09] <Deejay> gn8
[16:30:08] <furrywolf> just tried some pickles I got from the local health food store... "HOT DAMN DILLS" according to the label. the habaneros floating on top were a good sign. they're not bad.
[16:32:47] <furrywolf> definitely a bit of the habanero tongue burn to them
[16:32:54] <furrywolf> not super hot, but not bad.
[17:37:28] <PetefromTn_> LOL just posted a bunch of stuff accidentally about my anodizing progress in LinuxCNC Devel.. sorry DOH!
[17:39:40] <skunkworks> heh.. remis remis
[17:40:32] <PetefromTn_> Oh well I will just continue here
[17:43:24] <PetefromTn_> anyway I setup that stainless steel cookpot on the hotplate with DI water and the mixture of nickel acetate
[17:43:32] <PetefromTn_> that is the sealer bath
[17:44:19] <PetefromTn_> so at this point I have the acid tank setup with the electronic connections, and mixed the acid so that is all ready.
[17:44:42] <PetefromTn_> got the degreaser tank setup with DI water and that mixture of aluminum degreaser from Casewell
[17:45:22] <PetefromTn_> fabricated some little hooks to hold the thermometers I bought in each tank
[17:45:48] <PetefromTn_> so now I just need to start heating stuff up, hookup the power supply, and have at it and hope for the best LOL
[17:46:25] <PetefromTn_> My wife ran to the store to grab some new clean spray bottles to spray off the fluids at each station as I have seen done in videos on youtube with DI water
[17:47:02] <PetefromTn_> I also did not spill a single drop of the battery acid ;)
[17:48:01] <furrywolf> there's still time. :P
[17:48:08] <PetefromTn_> always
[17:48:25] <PetefromTn_> I have some stuff to build some bubblers here too I will be working on
[17:49:04] <PetefromTn_> there sure is a lot of little things you need to get to do this safely and correctly and I am sure I am still missing something here and there.
[17:51:28] <PetefromTn_> well I am gonna get to it here and see what happens as soon as she gets back from the store with the spray bottles.
[17:59:32] <CaptHindsight> anodzing headdress and matching vest
[18:00:13] <PetefromTn_> CaptHindsight good to hear from you. any comments on what I have done here so far?
[18:00:40] <CaptHindsight> looks good, just keep the pets and kids away
[18:01:00] <PetefromTn_> yeah they stay inside while I am doing this largely right outside the shop door
[18:01:04] <CaptHindsight> good ventilation
[18:01:26] <PetefromTn_> the sealer bath and the degreaser can be inside I would think just the anodizing bath outside no?
[18:01:32] <CaptHindsight> don't wear sandals
[18:02:01] <CaptHindsight> the acid vapor is not good inside
[18:02:05] <PetefromTn_> I feel like an underwater welder with my facemask and gauntlet gloves and whatnot LOL
[18:02:22] <CaptHindsight> better safe than sorry
[18:02:24] <PetefromTn_> just from the anodizing tank right
[18:03:03] <CaptHindsight> yes, in the anodizing tank
[18:03:12] <PetefromTn_> should I kind of do a burn in run with nothing in the tank first before I try a test part or is that not necessary
[18:03:55] <CaptHindsight> well make sure everything is hooked up correctly
[18:04:02] <CaptHindsight> then run a part
[18:04:15] <PetefromTn_> ground to the cathodes, positive to the part and crank it up right
[18:05:27] <PetefromTn_> Okay
[18:07:35] <CaptHindsight> PetefromTn_: how are you moving parts from tank to tank?
[18:14:41] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: You need to rinse the parts between stages
[18:14:43] <PetefromTn_> well I was planning to just hand it from the ti wire
[18:34:48] <CaptHindsight> PetefromTn_: they have to be completely dry of water before using the solvent dye
[18:35:43] <CaptHindsight> PetefromTn_: after anodize but before sealing the aluminum will absorb just about anything
[18:36:38] <CaptHindsight> fingerprints, dirt, etc
[18:46:17] <SpeedEvil> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_elephant_seal - I was just reading
[18:46:22] * SpeedEvil imagines sealing.
[18:47:20] * furrywolf sends paul watson after SpeedEvil
[18:58:24] <SpeedEvil> Elephant seals are ideally designed by nature to work in electroplating and anodising factories.
[19:13:12] <CaptHindsight> poor seals or pore seals?
[19:26:14] <tiwake> cutting steel
[19:26:18] <tiwake> yay
[19:26:48] <tiwake> except its an annoying thing
[19:27:28] <tiwake> going slow and making sure everything is correct
[19:27:43] <tiwake> still not sure how I'm going to get the bottom holes
[19:33:43] <PetefromTn_> Okay guys its going....
[19:34:19] <PetefromTn_> I just heated up the degreaser tank and put my first part in there for ten minutes swirling it around etc.
[19:34:22] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: Got any pics?
[19:34:41] <PetefromTn_> I have started heating up the sealer
[19:34:52] <PetefromTn_> and I have the anodizing tank hooked up.
[19:35:25] <PetefromTn_> I crammed a TI wire into a tapped hole in the part and hung it from there during the swirling and now it is in the anodizing tank
[19:35:33] <PetefromTn_> I did have a little issue with the power supply
[19:35:46] <PetefromTn_> for some reason I could not get it adjusted to the 1 amp and 15 volts
[19:35:52] <Tom_itx> pics or it never happened
[19:35:55] <PetefromTn_> it will not seem to go below 1.4
[19:38:55] <PetefromTn_> http://i.imgur.com/KyRc698.jpg
[19:39:12] <PetefromTn_> http://i.imgur.com/QmxgnM4.jpg
[19:39:22] <PetefromTn_> nothing earth shattering I know
[19:40:59] <SpeedEvil> PetefromTn_: Do you mean it did not reach 1A at 15V?
[19:41:22] <PetefromTn_> I mean it does not seem to want to go below 1.4
[19:47:47] <PetefromTn_> Comments Criticisms witicisms?
[19:51:36] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: The current I believe is how much the part is absorbing
[19:51:38] <PetefromTn_> I know I should not expect a tornado in there but it just seems to be getting covered with tiny bubbles right now
[19:51:41] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: Which is a good thing
[19:52:29] <PetefromTn_> does it take a long time to start doing something? about 20 minutes in so far
[19:52:45] <SpeedEvil> It is 'doing something'
[19:52:56] <os1r1s> If its forming bubbles, that's good
[19:53:02] <SpeedEvil> It's building up a film of AlO - assuming you got the wires round the right way
[19:53:09] <SpeedEvil> Has the current now dropped?
[19:53:11] <PetefromTn_> okay so light tiny bubbles all over the part is okay then
[19:53:22] <SpeedEvil> yes
[19:53:32] <os1r1s> yes
[19:53:37] <os1r1s> That means its working
[19:53:41] <PetefromTn_> current according to the pps is still the same
[19:54:06] <PetefromTn_> I'm sitting here watching it out the window eating dinner
[19:54:13] <PetefromTn_> still 1.4 amps 15v
[19:54:36] <PetefromTn_> when I try to adjust the coarse and fine adjustments on the current side it seems to want to click off below that 1.4
[19:54:54] <PetefromTn_> then the readouts say 00.0 and 00.0
[19:55:35] <PetefromTn_> if I tweak it slightly higher it clicks back on the red indicator lights come on and it says 15 volts again and goes right to the 1.4 amps
[19:56:29] <tiwake> PetefromTn_: most of the time you have either a constant current power supply, or a constant voltage power supply
[19:57:00] <tiwake> where you set either the current or voltage, and whatever the circuit can carry for the other is what is used
[19:57:33] <PetefromTn_> ok so what am I doing wrong then LOL
[19:58:12] <CaptHindsight> from the pic it looks like it's in CV mode
[19:58:14] <PetefromTn_> if the amps were supposed to be at 1 amp and 15 volts according to the website calculator
[19:58:31] <tiwake> with anodizing you want a constant current power supply, where you set the current to, donno, 4 amps or whatever, and the anodizing parts will take however many volts it needs to do what it needs to do
[19:58:32] <PetefromTn_> oh okay how do I swap it to CC mode
[19:59:34] <tiwake> uh
[19:59:35] <PetefromTn_> the red light is on on the voltage side
[19:59:40] <tiwake> it depends on the power supply
[20:00:03] <PetefromTn_> do I just crank down the voltage and tweak the amperage
[20:00:09] <tiwake> the one I have you turn one of the knobs down all the way before you turn it on
[20:00:21] <CaptHindsight> try and see if the LED jumps to the CC side
[20:00:44] <tiwake> disconnect the circuit first
[20:01:04] <CaptHindsight> the calculator doesn't say set at 15V that just the peak voltage
[20:01:37] <tiwake> I think with mine I have to turn the voltage to about the middle range, and turn the amps down all the way before turning it on
[20:01:49] <tiwake> turn it on and slowly crank up the amp knob
[20:02:24] <tiwake> (if I'm remembering correctly)
[20:02:30] <DaViruz> most lab supplies will just switch to cc whenever the current tries to go above the set current
[20:02:33] <tiwake> but like I said, it really depends on the power supply
[20:02:44] <DaViruz> just lowering the set current will force it into constant current
[20:03:26] <tiwake> DaPeace: yeah, my power supply is pretty simple with its design
[20:04:21] <tiwake> once mine switches to constant voltage it wont switch back to constant current unless its turned off
[20:04:47] <tiwake> anyway, back to cutting steel
[20:05:01] <DaViruz> sounds dangerous, that will essentially disable the current limiting
[20:05:47] <DaViruz> the thing with cv and cc is that it isn't really a mode you set, it's the power supply telling you what it's doing.
[20:05:59] <DaViruz> with electronics lab supplies that is
[20:06:08] <DaViruz> other power supplies can do whatever
[20:07:27] <PetefromTn_> freaking chinese manual sucks
[20:07:47] <PetefromTn_> tiwake sounds like you have one like mine or similar
[20:07:55] <tiwake> heh
[20:08:04] <DaViruz> just start lowering the current knob. at some point the current will start to decrease and the CC led will light
[20:08:17] <PetefromTn_> when you say you turn down one of the knobs all the way are you talking voltage or current side
[20:08:45] <tiwake> I do seem to recall the voltage knob sets the upper limit for the voltage
[20:09:03] <tiwake> but its been a while since I last used my power supply
[20:09:09] <tiwake> *shrug*
[20:09:34] <PetefromTn_> the LED is pretty much staying on the voltage side
[20:09:36] <tiwake> PetefromTn_: turn down the current knob all the way
[20:09:47] <PetefromTn_> Coarse or fine
[20:09:49] <tiwake> put the voltage at about the middle
[20:10:02] <tiwake> fine leave in the middle of how much it can turn
[20:10:47] <PetefromTn_> ok
[20:12:27] <tiwake> those bench power supplies have large capacitors, so when you turn them off leave it off for ~10 seconds before turning it back on
[20:13:02] <tiwake> normally they have resistors to drain the capacitors, but it still takes a while
[20:14:06] <PetefromTn_> I turned it off
[20:14:17] <PetefromTn_> set the voltage to the middle on coarse knob
[20:14:24] <PetefromTn_> to the middle on fine knob
[20:14:36] <PetefromTn_> set current coarse to zero
[20:14:42] <PetefromTn_> and current fine to zero
[20:14:52] <PetefromTn_> disconnected the wires to the cathode
[20:15:01] <PetefromTn_> reconnected wires
[20:15:06] <PetefromTn_> turned it on
[20:15:20] <PetefromTn_> tried to adjust current with fine only up
[20:15:32] <tiwake> use coarse
[20:15:46] <PetefromTn_> it does not do anything until it gets to like 1.4 then it clicks on to voltage and the voltage was like 16.6
[20:16:03] <tiwake> is it disconnected from the circuit?
[20:16:13] <PetefromTn_> should it be?
[20:16:40] <tiwake> probably, to just trying to get it in CC mode
[20:16:46] <tiwake> grammar
[20:16:52] <PetefromTn_> I can't seem to get it to stay in CC mode
[20:17:04] <PetefromTn_> okay so disconnect it
[20:17:15] <tiwake> but it does get in CC mode at first?
[20:17:35] <PetefromTn_> lemme try power it down again like I did before only this time I will not hook it to the cathodes
[20:19:09] <mutley_> i asked about stubby drills and drilling into 303 stainless the other day, thought id update
[20:19:30] <mutley_> i got some stubby cobalt 3.2 drill bits, working a dream
[20:20:13] <mutley_> 10 packs for £4
[20:20:15] <tiwake> mutley_: yeah... I cant imagine using anything other than cobalt with 304 or 316 stainless
[20:20:40] <tiwake> its even better than carbide, cause carbide likes to chip
[20:20:43] <mutley_> yea these ar going into it like butter :)
[20:21:05] <tiwake> erm, not the words I would use to describe it XD
[20:21:10] <furrywolf> it always is at one limit or the other. if you don't draw enough current, it stops at the voltage limit instead.
[20:21:32] <mutley_> yea im getting lovely curls of swarf. i was using some hss normal length jobbers, they were chattering and chipping like crazy, and really getting hot too
[20:21:38] * tiwake thinks back to all the melted drill bits from 304/316
[20:22:30] <mutley_> yea these cobalts are working like a charm :) anyways was just saying thanks to those (if they are here) for their inout the other day
[20:22:39] <mutley_> *input
[20:23:54] <tiwake> mutley_: a good cobalt parabolic drill is fantastic for the stuff, depending on the diameter... if its really small I've found that the parabolic drills dont help as much
[20:24:23] <tiwake> and of course, slow with lots of coolant
[20:24:24] <PetefromTn_> OK I just went out there and powered it down
[20:24:31] <mutley_> ya im drilling 3.2 holes into the ends of 5mm rod
[20:24:35] <PetefromTn_> checked all the connections and powered it back up
[20:24:43] <PetefromTn_> NOW it stays in constant current mode
[20:24:47] <mutley_> running slow, no coolant
[20:24:52] <tiwake> PetefromTn_: woo
[20:24:53] <PetefromTn_> I was able to adjust it up to 1 amp
[20:25:04] <PetefromTn_> the voltage is at around 11.6 volts
[20:25:28] <PetefromTn_> so NOW I should see the voltage increase as the part gets the anodizing layer built up on it right.
[20:25:38] <mutley_> manual feed, but just letting the drill find its way through and its real nice, getting a single piece of swarf out of it on each hole
[20:25:44] <PetefromTn_> yeah the LED for the CC side is on and staying on now.
[20:26:04] <tiwake> you might need to adjust the voltage limit higher if it switches to CV mode
[20:26:29] <tiwake> but otherwise, yay :)
[20:26:35] <PetefromTn_> YAY YAY
[20:27:26] <tiwake> ANODIZE ALL THE THINGS
[20:27:45] <PetefromTn_> let's just get ONE part anodized first shall we :)
[20:27:51] <tiwake> make a nice laptop cover replacement out of aluminum and splash anodize it :D
[20:28:34] <PetefromTn_> man I tell you what if I can get this to work I will be anodizing every damn thing in sight LOL
[20:28:58] <PetefromTn_> the nickel acetate sealer bath kinda stinks tho
[20:29:37] <PetefromTn_> I am supposed to have to anodize this single part at this setting for 120 minutes. I might turn the sealer bath down until say ten minutes from the end
[20:29:50] <furrywolf> lid. :)
[20:30:30] <PetefromTn_> kinda wierd how the power supply works but I guess it makes sense
[20:30:59] <furrywolf> it works like every single other adjustable power supply. lol
[20:31:41] <PetefromTn_> well since I have never owned one before I guess that is okay LOL
[20:33:47] <mutley_> PetefromTn_: ahh this is th anodising kit you mentioed the other day?
[20:34:10] <PetefromTn_> yeah something like that
[20:38:47] <os1r1s> PetefromTn_: Did you dye yet?
[20:39:31] <PetefromTn_> no man I had the machine in voltage mode and it was not working. now I think it is in CC mode at 1 amp so now gotta wait 120 minutes
[20:40:36] <furrywolf> sounds like you had a bad connection the first time
[20:40:50] <furrywolf> if you hit the voltage limit with no current flow, you have excessive resistance somewhere
[20:42:15] <PetefromTn_> actually man you might be right because I redid the connections
[20:42:29] <PetefromTn_> and now it seems to be working the way i expected it to.
[20:42:34] <PetefromTn_> Just went out there and checked it
[20:42:49] <furrywolf> think of each knob as a limit... it'll try to put out as much power as it can, without going over either limit.
[20:42:51] <PetefromTn_> I can see the curtain of bubbles/gas rising from the cathodes on both sides now
[20:42:59] <furrywolf> it's always limited by one or the other
[20:43:29] <PetefromTn_> so as I said I reset my timer and now just gotta wait and see how it turns out. VERY EXCITED
[20:43:32] <furrywolf> constant current mode just means you hit your current limit before your voltage limit
[20:43:54] <furrywolf> but if current doesn't flow for whatever reason, then you'll hit your voltage limit instead.
[20:44:20] <SpeedEvil> If you've actually been putting 1.4A in, then it will anodise just fine - take it out sooner than if it'd been at 1A, don't start over
[20:44:48] <PetefromTn_> yeah I don't think it was actually doing anything before....now I can see it working in the bath
[20:45:13] <furrywolf> your meter's current gauge is the most useful thing. pay attention to what it says. :)
[20:45:20] <furrywolf> your meter / current gauge
[20:45:52] <PetefromTn_> yeah it is set on 1.0 amps and the voltage is now currenlty 11.5 or so
[20:51:03] <furrywolf> if it was showing 1.4 before, even if you had a bad connection, current was flowing, and annodizing was happening.
[20:54:22] <Crom> thinking about yanking the grbl nano board from the K40 and using a USB/parallel adapter on a bob
[20:54:42] <Crom> the machine I want to use it on has not parallel port
[20:54:55] <furrywolf> <furrywolf> if it was showing 1.4 before, even if you had a bad connection, current was flowing, and annodizing was happening.
[20:55:04] <furrywolf> as far as I know, you can't do any realtime stuff with usb.
[20:55:13] <PetefromTn_> you think so
[20:55:33] <PetefromTn_> what will happen if you go beyond the 120 minutes mark?
[20:55:37] <furrywolf> not having a parallel port doesn't suddenly make usb work. :)
[20:55:51] <Crom> well I'm trying to find a fork of grbl written with the k40 laser in maind
[20:56:11] <furrywolf> PetefromTn_: it gets over-annodized? I have no clue. lol
[20:56:45] <furrywolf> have you considered mesa's ethernet boards?
[20:58:14] <Crom> ouch $180
[20:58:25] <furrywolf> they have a $89 one I think
[20:59:38] <Crom> lasaurgpbl looks promissing
[21:00:07] <Crom> lasaurgrbl looks promising
[21:01:26] <furrywolf> I need their $200 board, but I have two spindles and other things needing extra pins...
[21:12:53] <Crom> I need a laser cutter working not on a moshidraw board/ I have 6600 driver, 6560's, also mendel melzi
[21:13:41] <Crom> and the nano laser board from ebay
[21:37:42] <CaptHindsight> PetefromTn_: you really can't over anodize this way
[21:38:04] <CaptHindsight> the oxide build up gets to be so thick that current stops flowing
[21:38:12] <furrywolf> more volts. :)
[21:38:20] <CaptHindsight> even then
[21:38:41] * furrywolf has blown through the gate oxide on enough mosfets to know that more volts always works
[21:38:42] <CaptHindsight> but he has to learn how to tweak what he has
[21:38:56] <CaptHindsight> 10000000000000 volts
[21:39:28] <CaptHindsight> PetefromTn_: record how long this took and the settings and temp
[21:39:58] <CaptHindsight> keep track and you'll learn how to dial it in and make changes
[21:41:08] <CaptHindsight> next week we change acids and start seeding pores
[21:41:09] <furrywolf> http://www.shevibe.com/images/comics/electrosex/1.jpg and on a completely and utterly unrelated topic, I can't wait until Universal's lawyers find that... (safe for work)
[21:42:10] <furrywolf> hrmm, the overlay is a separate image.
http://www.shevibe.com/images/comics/electrosex/erotic_electrostimulation_toys.gif goes over the top of that.
[21:45:27] <os1r1s> Is the most common lathe mode radius or diameter?
[21:52:45] <PetefromTn_> CaptHindsight OK
[21:53:04] <PetefromTn_> The part is starting to get that yellow hue so I THINK it is working correctly
[21:53:12] <PetefromTn_> still got another 30 minutes or so
[21:53:48] <PetefromTn_> then I can pull it out, wash it down with the DI water, dry it off, dye it in the solvent dye trough, and then seal it in the sealer bath...
[21:53:56] <PetefromTn_> Getting excited to see how this first part works
[21:54:11] <furrywolf> got the sealer bath warming up?
[21:54:21] <PetefromTn_> its at 200 degrees right now
[21:55:26] <PetefromTn_> another 30 minutes or so and we will see how I did here whether I screwed the pooch or kicked a field goal hehe
[21:56:00] <furrywolf> there's a large inbetween territory you're likely to be in. :)
[21:59:14] <jdh> you could be screwing the pooch on the 30 yard line before kicking a field goal
[22:08:02] <PetefromTn_> HAr har har
[22:10:47] <PetefromTn_> 13 minutes!!
[22:13:07] <furrywolf> what's your voltage and current?
[22:13:37] <PetefromTn_> 1.0 amps and 11.3 volts
[22:13:46] <furrywolf> voltage didn't go up much, then
[22:13:55] <PetefromTn_> no not really
[22:14:12] <furrywolf> dare I eat the habaneros floating in the jar of hot pickles I bought?
[22:14:22] <PetefromTn_> but its a single small part in a rather large tub
[22:33:27] <_methods> os1r1s: it's like asking someone if they like white or wheat
[22:33:36] <_methods> it really just depends on the shop you work at
[22:33:38] <PetefromTn_> CaptHindsight Okay I just pulled the part out of the anodizing bath
[22:33:45] <_methods> i prefer Radius myself
[22:33:55] <PetefromTn_> sprayed it clean with some DI water in a spray bottle
[22:34:06] <PetefromTn_> then I dipped it in the black dye you sent me
[22:34:09] <os1r1s> _methods: I've been using radius, but some folks have said that is strange
[22:34:11] <_methods> but some people like diameter so they dont' have to do any math
[22:34:21] <PetefromTn_> it came out really shiny but quickly dried to a matte finish
[22:34:23] <_methods> i've had to use both
[22:34:32] <_methods> like i said it's a personal pref
[22:34:32] <PetefromTn_> is that normal
[22:34:58] <PetefromTn_> once it is fully dry I will then put it in the sealer bath or spray it with the DI water again?
[22:35:24] <_methods> os1r1s: i would just use whichever one you want especially in a home shop
[22:38:52] <os1r1s> _methods: Ok. Thx
[22:39:18] <_methods> np
[22:39:56] <_methods> i'm not sure how linuxcnc handles lathe insert offsets
[22:40:16] <_methods> if you put in .001" CDC does it take off the diameter or radius
[22:43:06] <_methods> i think on some machines you can set up the offset table to work with dia or R for tool offsets
[22:43:20] <_methods> but i think the older fanucs the tool table was all in R
[22:43:48] <_methods> so for uniformity i believe we just programmed all machines in R
[22:51:59] <PetefromTn_> OKAY folks.... I am sorry to report that today's anodizing experiment was a complete crash and burn. Part looks like crap did not seem to take the dye well. is all streaky and nasty looking. Has coppery looking areas and some areas are black but the whole part overall looks very matte which is not what I was after at all. NOT GOOD!!
[22:52:06] <PetefromTn_> http://i.imgur.com/o6ObwZl.jpg
[22:52:11] <PetefromTn_> DISASTER...
[22:52:25] <PetefromTn_> thankfully it was just a test part so not really too upset about it.
[22:52:37] <PetefromTn_> would love to know what I did wrong here tho.
[22:55:33] <furrywolf> did you wash between dying and sealing?
[22:56:31] <PetefromTn_> http://i.imgur.com/xC15gzx.jpg
[22:56:38] <PetefromTn_> another shot
[22:57:48] <PetefromTn_> honestly after I dyed it, I let it sit for awhile and it dried to a sort of matte finish but it had some areas where too much dye dried on the surfaces like runs in paint
[22:58:18] <PetefromTn_> Once it fully dried I tried to spray it with the DI water and that is when some areas became almost silver again very easily
[22:58:41] <furrywolf> might need to wash after dye, or immediately seal, or... don't know. I suspect the problem happened in that step of the process.
[22:58:47] <PetefromTn_> so after the water dried it off I put it back in the dye
[22:59:15] <PetefromTn_> and then when It fully dried again I put it in the sealer.
[22:59:23] <PetefromTn_> some dye came off in the sealer bath too
[22:59:39] <PetefromTn_> not very inspiring results kinda bummed out...
[23:00:43] <PetefromTn_> I guess I will try again tomorrow morning
[23:01:11] <furrywolf> ask Capt for the right dye->seal procedure
[23:01:27] <PetefromTn_> yeah I think I need to.
[23:01:56] <PetefromTn_> I am sure there is some sort of different procedure for this solvent based dye than what I have seen in the other videos
[23:02:51] <PetefromTn_> I am wondering if I should take some acetone to it and see if there is excess dye on the part that is causing some of the discoloration
[23:03:36] <PetefromTn_> if there is and the dye under it made it into the pores it is possible the part is okay underneath the bad areas but I kinda doubt it.
[23:04:36] <_methods> sorry PetefromTn_
[23:04:48] <_methods> i hate finishing
[23:04:56] <_methods> one of the things i just sub out
[23:05:09] <_methods> i've never had any good experiences doing it myself
[23:05:33] <furrywolf> my first guess is not to let it dry
[23:05:39] <_methods> i think once you get the hang of it you'll be fine but it's got a rough learning curve
[23:06:18] <furrywolf> strip it (acid/alkali/something), toss it back in the annodizing tank, try again? :)
[23:06:19] <_methods> buwhahahahahahha
[23:06:25] <_methods> ellen pao resigned from reddit
[23:06:41] <furrywolf> who is ellen pao and why is that interesting?
[23:07:05] <_methods> she was the ceo of reddit
[23:07:37] <PetefromTn_> _methods thanks man I know how you feel
[23:07:43] <_methods> i don't really do the reddit thing
[23:07:45] <PetefromTn_> I am unsure what went wrong really
[23:07:48] <_methods> but i know people that do
[23:07:52] <_methods> and they are all up in arms
[23:08:00] <_methods> yeah finishing is like that
[23:08:15] <PetefromTn_> I just took a paper towel and some acetone to the part
[23:08:30] <furrywolf> I hate painting for much the same reason... the first coat falling off when you put on the second coat seems to happen randomly.
[23:08:33] <PetefromTn_> a lot of the shitty look went away and the rag removed quite a bit of the dye
[23:08:43] <_methods> none of it is random
[23:08:48] <_methods> i'll tell you that for certain
[23:08:50] <furrywolf> try again without letting it dry. immediately rinse and seal?
[23:08:51] <PetefromTn_> there are some areas that are pretty even and black now
[23:09:01] <_methods> i'd wait for CaptHindsight
[23:09:05] <_methods> it's his die
[23:09:27] <_methods> but finishing processes are very particular
[23:09:29] <PetefromTn_> but there are some areas that much of the dye came off a good bit and is now just a light grey
[23:09:38] <furrywolf> _methods: nothing is ever random. but some things depend on more variables than can be easily figured out, and are thus called random. :P
[23:10:02] <_methods> yeah finishing is particularly susceptible to variables i've found
[23:10:18] <_methods> once you find them you learn to eliminate them
[23:10:27] <_methods> but he process is often painful and expensive
[23:11:17] <furrywolf> you get paints that say they have to be recoated between, say, 30 and 60 minutes. no more or no less. but they don't give you a table on how they change with air temperature, part temperature, humidity, thickness of coat, phase of moon, etc, etc... so you recoat 45 minutes later... and it falls off. and then you want to kill people.
[23:11:38] <PetefromTn_> I don't honestly think that I should just dye and try to seal it wet.
[23:11:40] <_methods> yeah
[23:12:05] <PetefromTn_> simply because the dye came off pretty readily in the DI spray and even after in the sealer bath
[23:12:22] <_methods> so did you apply the dye immediately after the acid bath?
[23:12:23] <furrywolf> but drying results in uneven coatings and such, I'd figure...
[23:12:35] <_methods> and how did you pick up the parts?
[23:12:39] <PetefromTn_> it is possible the anodizing process did not work successfully
[23:12:48] <_methods> definitely possible
[23:13:06] <PetefromTn_> I removed the part from the acid bath using the same TI wire I used to hold it suspended in the bath
[23:13:36] <PetefromTn_> then I held it above another container and sprayed off the residual acid with the DI spray bottle
[23:14:00] <furrywolf> did you work out the surface area and verify proper A/ft2 value?
[23:14:27] <PetefromTn_> once it dried from that I took the part and submerged it in a shallow tray full of the dye
[23:14:45] <PetefromTn_> the dye completely covered the part in its entirety
[23:14:58] <PetefromTn_> after it sat in there for a couple minutes I removed it
[23:15:02] <PetefromTn_> and let it air dry
[23:15:05] <_methods> make sure you write down every detail while it's still fresh in your brain
[23:15:22] <PetefromTn_> at which point it started to dry to a very matte looking haze
[23:15:50] <PetefromTn_> the only areas that did not are places that seemed to have excess dye sitting on it.
[23:15:56] <_methods> finishing is very procedural
[23:16:04] <furrywolf> that is, if you're going for 10A/ft2, is your part 0.1ft2?
[23:16:13] <PetefromTn_> we did the math.
[23:16:23] <PetefromTn_> my part it .1755 sq ft.
[23:16:31] <PetefromTn_> we used 6 amps/sq ft
[23:16:55] <PetefromTn_> the online calculator called for 1 amp at 15 volts for 120 minutes
[23:17:36] <PetefromTn_> the odd thing is that if it were not for the splotchiness the part after I wiped it down with acetone FEELS like an anodized part.
[23:17:57] <PetefromTn_> the areas that are black are smooth and even
[23:20:09] <_methods> it looks like there are some areas where there is no die
[23:20:46] <PetefromTn_> http://i.imgur.com/TrjtMcA.jpg
[23:20:50] <PetefromTn_> yes it does
[23:21:15] <renesis> looks neat
[23:21:38] * furrywolf fixes the "y" key for _methods
[23:21:54] <_methods> hehe
[23:22:16] <PetefromTn_> tomorrow I will try to do this again only this time I will use the etch bath and remove the dye I put on it today first. I will also start with another test part and see what happens
[23:22:18] <_methods> i tiped dye earlier lol
[23:22:38] <PetefromTn_> renesis I agree it does look kinda cool
[23:22:53] <PetefromTn_> but unfortunately I need it to look even and smooth hehe
[23:22:54] <renesis> petefromtn_: may stir the dye first and brush down the part somehow to make sure no bubbles?
[23:23:01] <_methods> i wonder if shooting it on with an hvlp gun would give it a more even distribution
[23:23:14] <_methods> or air brush
[23:23:28] <renesis> hmm actually doesnt look like bubbles
[23:23:29] <PetefromTn_> that is actually a method that he said is possible
[23:23:37] <renesis> yeah air brush would stir it up too
[23:24:03] <PetefromTn_> he said I could dip it and I chose that method to ensure I could reach into the slots evenly
[23:24:13] <_methods> my concern would be there areas that have not taken any dye
[23:24:32] <_methods> s/there/the
[23:24:46] <PetefromTn_> well since I completely submerged the part there are no areas that did not get dye on them.
[23:24:52] <_methods> right
[23:25:01] <PetefromTn_> the only thing I can think is that I did not sufficiently clean the part
[23:25:05] <_methods> so why are there areas that appear to be clear of dye
[23:25:14] <PetefromTn_> but I did degrease it as suggested
[23:25:27] <_methods> yeah that may be where your problem lies
[23:25:28] <PetefromTn_> because those areas did not hold the dye in
[23:25:52] <PetefromTn_> when I sprayed it off after it dried from the dye those areas lost dye
[23:26:12] <PetefromTn_> so apparently the part did not take the dye well in those areas
[23:26:52] <PetefromTn_> also it APPEARS that the areas most clean of the dye were where the runs from the dye after I pulled it out dried leaving little shallow runs on the part.
[23:26:54] <furrywolf> were they behind the wire or such?
[23:27:56] <PetefromTn_> I would think that if the part itself was fully anodized it would not matter where the dye pooled a little it would STILL get into the pores.
[23:28:09] <PetefromTn_> no the wire was jammed into the tapped hole
[23:29:33] <_methods> i have no idea i've never done anodizing with die
[23:29:35] <_methods> dye
[23:29:51] <PetefromTn_> So even tho the result is kinda depressing I managed to anodize at least PART of the part LOL
[23:30:05] <_methods> yeah
[23:30:38] <_methods> what did you use for your anode or cathode
[23:30:44] <_methods> whichever one you need lol
[23:30:45] <PetefromTn_> as I understand it I can use the lye solution to etch the part clean and try again. There are videos online showing people RE-anodizing parts that way I believe
[23:31:10] <PetefromTn_> I used a pair of 1/4 inch thick 6061 aluminum plates...one at each end of the bath
[23:31:24] <_methods> were they clean?
[23:31:39] <PetefromTn_> I cleaned them but I did not etch them
[23:31:45] <PetefromTn_> degreased them
[23:31:54] <_methods> k
[23:31:58] <PetefromTn_> I think tomorrow I will try etching them
[23:32:02] <PetefromTn_> before I try again
[23:32:09] <furrywolf> I don't think the cathodes are the problem...
[23:32:18] <_methods> yeah i have no idea
[23:32:23] <PetefromTn_> they SEEMED to be offgassing pretty good
[23:32:25] <_methods> i'm just spitballin
[23:32:31] <furrywolf> unless they're right next to the part, issues with their surface won't affect the current density much.
[23:32:33] <PetefromTn_> during the power on phase
[23:33:12] <PetefromTn_> I did have concern that the part is pretty small in that huge cooler but I don't understand the process enough to determine if that is an issue or not
[23:33:58] <furrywolf> heh, theregister has an article on the reddit thing... I guess more people care about reddit than I thought. I've never been interested in it. heh, even here on freenode, the reddit lesbian channel was mostly pretty annoying people...
[23:34:12] <PetefromTn_> what I did notice is that the part itself did not seem to offgas nearly as much as the cathodes did. it just appeared to have a sort of cloud around it but not the curtain of bubbles/gas that the cathodes had
[23:34:35] <PetefromTn_> I don't even know what redditt is
[23:34:47] <_methods> it's a glorified forum
[23:34:57] <_methods> yeah
[23:35:00] <XXCoder> its forum of forums
[23:35:04] <_methods> it's basically a bulleting board
[23:35:13] <_methods> full of manchildren
[23:35:14] <furrywolf> PetefromTn_: that's normal
[23:35:15] <XXCoder> not really interested in reddit either
[23:35:34] <PetefromTn_> OK
[23:35:43] <PetefromTn_> anyways I just got started here
[23:35:46] <_methods> yeah that plating part won[t' offgas
[23:35:52] <PetefromTn_> so not surprised I had a failure on my first try
[23:36:14] <PetefromTn_> it sure would have been nice to get it right the first time tho
[23:36:33] <PetefromTn_> tomorrow morning I will try again after I etch this part clean
[23:36:59] <PetefromTn_> my wife found some lye solution at the Lowes today and I need to setup an etching bath with it.
[23:37:44] <PetefromTn_> Captainhindsight seemed to think that since I machined the entire part surfaces that it was not necessary. I am sure he is probably right but now that I have the solution I will try it and see.
[23:38:02] <PetefromTn_> also see if it can remove this anodizing and dye from this failed part and let me try again with it.
[23:38:16] <furrywolf> heh, speaking of lye, I'm going to have great fun mixing 60 gallons of DI water with 200lbs of KOH... it's supposed to be nicely exothermic too.
[23:38:45] <XXCoder> whats plan for it
[23:38:47] <_methods> we had to sandblast parts for the shop next door before they went to anodize
[23:39:23] <furrywolf> sandblasting seems more like a texture thing?
[23:39:40] <_methods> they were having contamination issues on the parts
[23:39:45] <XXCoder> besides cool colors what does anaodize benefit?
[23:39:49] <_methods> and the actual anodizers suggeested it
[23:40:09] <_methods> i dont' think they wanted to sandblast all those parts
[23:40:11] <furrywolf> annodizing creates a hard layer that resists wear and corrosion
[23:40:25] <XXCoder> make more alum oxide?
[23:40:25] <furrywolf> the colors are actually optional.
[23:40:30] <furrywolf> yes
[23:40:32] <XXCoder> nice
[23:41:57] <furrywolf> except it creates it in a nice even solid layer, not flaky crap like environmental exposure does. :)
[23:42:15] <XXCoder> heh white stuff from alum is alum oxide oxide
[23:42:19] <PetefromTn_> Well I am gonna get to bed and hope for more luck tomorrow with this. Thanks for the suggestions guys...
[23:42:21] <XXCoder> basically alum rust rust
[23:42:36] <_methods> later pete
[23:42:38] <_methods> i'm out too
[23:42:45] <XXCoder> later peter method
[23:42:57] <XXCoder> in least he left before reading my mistake :P
[23:43:15] <furrywolf> lol
[23:43:26] <furrywolf> you can send it to him in a memo. :P
[23:43:31] <XXCoder> heh
[23:43:39] <Tom_itx> it's ok, there are logs
[23:43:47] <XXCoder> shh
[23:48:10] <XXCoder> man can't wait to get my spindle :P
[23:51:31] <furrywolf> I can't wait to get a money tree.
[23:52:02] <XXCoder> me too
[23:52:29] <XXCoder> wish just get $3000 a month lol
[23:52:39] <XXCoder> that'd make me able to just live and hsve fun
[23:52:49] <XXCoder> or without a house just travel all over
[23:53:55] <MattyMatt> machine shop on a train?
[23:54:12] <XXCoder> actually no. just travel for year or 2
[23:54:17] <XXCoder> then finally setup a shop
[23:58:13] <MattyMatt> if a machine tool processes more than its own weight in material during its lifetime, surely it'd be cheaper to move the factory around rather than ship the goods
[23:59:57] <XXCoder> start travel with shop, arrive with parts complete ;)
