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[01:39:30] <Jymmm> To all that have order items from HK with lithium batteries, including HT's:
http://www.hongkongpost.hk/eng/publications/notices/2013/20130910a/index.htm
[01:50:29] <JesusAlos> yep
[01:51:53] <JesusAlos> I received a linuxcnc update
[01:53:10] <JesusAlos> pre0.4781
[02:06:39] <_DJ_> moin
[02:21:35] <archivist> ew spot the failure point
http://www.thermulan.com/html/toggle_press.html
[02:23:50] <archivist> I was researching the maker after finding 261288115455 on ebay, which looks a good idea
[02:27:21] <JesusAlos> have a problem with "Realtime delay error"
[02:27:25] <JesusAlos> I put latency test result in BASE_PERIOD value
[02:27:32] <JesusAlos> but the error still appear
[02:43:00] <JesusAlos> help about please?
[02:43:22] <mrsun_> join 0 following error, is that due to the base thread period ?
[03:02:09] <mrsun_> when talking servo motors, if i want a servo motor comparable with a stepper with 1.8Nm holding torque, what do i need to go for then? :) i know torque and holding torque isnt the same but steppers are specced in holding torque? :/
[03:04:12] <The_Ball> Can I make HAL talk i2c on a high speed IO? (mesa)
[03:05:24] <The_Ball> This
https://github.com/cdsteinkuehler/LinuxCNC-RepRap/blob/master/components/I2C.comp seems to suggest so
[03:14:43] <Loetmichel> mornin'
[03:20:30] <JesusAlos> hi
[05:26:41] <jthornton> morning
[05:34:53] <JesusAlos> hi
[05:51:16] <_DJ_> hi
[05:52:22] <archivist> hiho hiho its off to work we go
[05:53:13] <archivist> I googled and it seems no one has made a digimatic hal module
[06:42:17] <JesusAlos> ping #linuxcnc
[06:46:24] <Poincare> pong
[07:25:07] <archivist> not seen one of these in the wild for a while fleabay 251356563301
[07:34:40] <t12> neat
[07:35:47] <archivist> I got one at the ex army store, rather sensitive
[10:31:16] <JesusAlos_> _
[12:33:17] <IchGuckLive> hi all B)
[12:33:21] <_DJ_> hi
[12:40:35] <IchGuckLive> hi probotix are you related to the company or just onwn one of this
[14:33:29] <archivist> updated the screw error page with todays measurements
http://www.archivist.info/cnc/screw_error/
[14:39:56] <andypugh> Do you have any slip blocks?
[14:40:43] <archivist> yes but very workshop grade
[14:41:04] <kwallace2> Hello. This is way off topic. I have a Tek T935A oscilloscope. It powers up but doesn't sweep. If I try to fix it, would it be worth the effort?
[14:41:37] <archivist> I also have some glass blocks for checking micrometers (has an inch in the set)
[14:42:47] <archivist> andypugh, its within a thou once travelling so in tolerance probably considering the machine "quality"
[14:42:55] <andypugh> kwallace: It is probably a very good oscillosope. But do you need a very good oscilloscope? I know I don't, I just need to see if a pin is wiggling at approximately the right rate.
[14:43:25] <CaptHindsight> with the accuracy of the DTI being .00024" how much does the metal expand and contract over temp or even by shining a lamp on it?
[14:43:54] <archivist> CaptHindsight, I let it stand a bit before I did any measuring
[14:45:18] <archivist> and came back to 0 to see if any real change after
[14:46:44] <archivist> just a test of the method really with a write up for some users that need to diagnose their problems
[14:47:48] <archivist> kwallace, only thing with some tek scopes is the in house chips
[14:48:00] <kwallace2> andypugh: I don't remember where I got the scope from, but I'm sure it was free. It has been sitting on a shelf for many years and I'd like to figure out if I should recycle or fix it. I have a scope in my office but it would be nice to have one in the shop too.
[14:48:08] <CaptHindsight> kwallace: those probably sell for ~$100 in working condition on ebay
[14:48:55] <andypugh> I would suspec that a DSO-mini or the quad version would be perfectly adequate for shop use.
[14:50:20] <andypugh> I like my little Tek 336, except for the rather loud fan noise. But It's a lot more capable than I need, and even though it is relatively tiny, it is still less portable than I would like.
[14:50:22] <CaptHindsight> they also make for good backgrounds when being interviewed on camera
[14:50:39] <archivist> kwallace, that looks of a style that may have been made over here in Guernsey
[14:51:02] <archivist> the old Telequipment plant
[14:51:15] <archivist> fixable
[14:52:37] <andypugh> The 336 is like this:
http://www.komu.jp/336.html and about exactly the size of a sheet of A4 paper.
[14:53:18] <andypugh> I have no idea how much it cost to generate characters on the CRT back when it was new...
[14:53:42] <andypugh> Anyway, that's getting off topic.
[14:53:55] <archivist> the 7000 series had chr gens in them too
[14:56:24] <archivist> andypugh, thinking of slips etc, I have 3 1" a ring, the glass and a slip, and the comparators all say the slip is short
[14:56:44] <andypugh> kwallace2: I would say if you want to fix a broken thing for the sake of fixing a broken thing, then go for it. But if you want a shop-grade scope to check for step signalsetc, then:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141061201300 look like a better idea.
[14:57:08] <CaptHindsight> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12065 4 channel scope that uses a $5 ARM SOC
[14:57:17] <archivist> I would prefer the tek :)
[14:57:57] <andypugh> archivist: Yes, but perhaps not for slipping into your posket when you head out to the workshop...
[14:58:39] <archivist> I have a manky old Advance scope for outdoors
[14:59:42] <kwallace2> I suppose it would not hurt anything to take the covers off and poke around.
[15:00:21] <archivist> it only hurts you if you touch the wrong bit :)
[15:00:51] <kwallace2> It took a while for the power LED to come on and it doesn't come on very brightly. Maybe power supply or bad caps?
[15:01:25] <kwallace2> Corroded contacts?
[15:01:34] <CaptHindsight> http://dx.com/p/dso150-avr-core-portable-2-1-glcd-digital-storage-oscilloscope-green-black-silver-234107 $39
[15:01:39] <archivist> kwallace, kurt has a manual
http://w140.com/tekwiki/wiki/935
[15:04:17] <CaptHindsight> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9t72w-9fZE heh
[15:04:28] <CaptHindsight> Arduino Color TFT LCD Oscilloscope
[15:05:16] <kwallace2> archivist: That should come in handy. Thank you.
[15:06:37] <Tom_itx> rigols are popular as well
[15:08:09] <Tom_itx> most of those cheap ones do 5Mhz or less
[15:08:21] <kwallace2> I wanted to use a solderless breadboard with an old motorcycle CDI on it, so I had to document the circuit before I took it apart. Now I have to redesign it. To do that I need a scipe in the shop, so now I have to fix the scope, to fix the scope I need ....
[15:08:52] <archivist> what...no spare scope!
[15:09:31] <kwallace2> And no probes either.
[15:10:04] <Jymmm> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xD6ghskNKa8
[15:10:17] <archivist> you could with "some care" and an a-d and a parallel port use halscope
[15:10:43] <archivist> some cheap people use a soundcard
[15:12:11] <archivist> kwallace, old tek may just need switches cleaning (use them a lot of times)
[15:15:35] <kwallace2> It looks pretty clean inside. The voltage select switch looks corroded though, so has seen some water.
[15:17:00] <kwallace2> Oops, actually it a switch that says HI/LO.
[15:49:24] <andypugh> I wonder what the sequence of operations is to make these?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181234911775?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
[15:50:34] <andypugh> Possibly a job for two identical vices with a tiny gap between them.
[16:23:53] <_DJ_> gn8
[16:26:11] <kwallace> andypugh: You mean to make a tube, then split it?
[16:26:27] <andypugh> Basically yes.
[16:27:06] <andypugh> I can't decide if they drill the "softening" hole first then bore, or the other way round.
[16:27:27] <andypugh> I thought of just cutting very deep with a slitting saw. But how do you hold it to do that?
[16:27:56] <CaptHindsight> boring
[16:29:04] <kwallace> I would tend to make the tube, then make an insert so that the tube can be clamped while being slit. It looks like they made a shallow slit, then drilled the other side.
[16:29:27] <andypugh> My boring head came with a lot of sleeves, and a lot of boring bars. Sadly none of the sleeves suit any of the boring bars
[16:30:31] <kwallace> Slit and drill with insert.
[16:31:03] <andypugh> kwallace: Ah, yes, good idea. I can clamp a rod in the middle to support the drill.
[16:33:10] <kwallace> It just looks like that is how the eBay tubes where done.
[16:36:21] <andypugh> I am sure Wohlhaupter found a more expensive way to do it. Those will be hardened and ground too.
[16:42:10] <kwallace> Maybe rough the tube and hole while soft, with insert. Harden, then grind the ID and OD, add another insert and grind the slit?
[16:42:55] <kwallace> I tried it and it works pretty well... in my head.
[16:44:13] <kwallace> I'm grabbing the good scope and going back to the shop.
[17:18:40] <ries> afternoon all, anybody happen to know if there are any g-code intepeters are available, open source ofcourse. This to make simple visualisation of the created path
[17:23:15] <Optic> linuxcnc :)
[17:23:35] <tjtr33> kwallace, when you come back: cool, the Hoover (935). use to have one
[17:23:53] <ries> Optic: hehehe… yeaa, but then I have to walk to my machine each time I generate something on the desktop
[17:23:59] <tjtr33> ries google up SAI in linuxcnc ( stand alone interpreter )
[17:24:44] <Optic> toss it in a virtualbox vm :)
[17:26:32] <ries> Optic: mpbody would download that if I am going to open source it
[17:31:46] <andypugh> There is SAI and also the Gremlin widget.
[17:32:20] <andypugh> (Gremlin may use SAI, I am not sure)
[17:33:10] <JT_Shop> what is SAI?
[17:33:28] <ries> That seems to by python… I am trying to create something where I dont have to compile for all operating systems so it will run
[17:43:21] <tjtr33> ( stand alone interpreter )
[17:44:10] <tjtr33> and that tube collet? WEDM the slot , hole and 'hinge'.
[17:47:19] <andypugh> Yeah, WEDM is the easy way, but I don't have one
[17:50:37] <andypugh> Now, I have a feeling that there is a way to shift a jacobs taper with only a hammer, rather than use the special wedges... Any knowledge out there?
[18:01:18] <ries> I just found
http://openscam.com, if that works then I don't have to handle the portion of compiling and disitrbution for various OSes..
[18:18:58] <andypugh> I think awallin has done some G-code previewing stuff too.
[18:32:38] <ries> andypugh: I think he has been using the lib's from linuxcnc
[18:33:39] <ries> andypugh: I need to wrap my head around what route to take making this tool… for this item I just don't feel like doing the cross-platform build route and trying to keep things KISS
[18:40:29] <The_Ball> jepler, hi mate, are you around?
[19:03:38] <andypugh> Is this a gap-bed CNC lathe? That could be a nice combination:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COLCHESTER-MASCOT-CNC-LATHE-/300986631029
[19:06:00] <The_Ball> andypugh, nice, what do you think the reserve is at?
[19:06:19] <andypugh> Interesting question.
[19:07:00] <andypugh> It's not the lathe for me right now, but I have a friend who wants a nice big lathe for restoring 1900s trucks.
[19:07:49] <andypugh> If it does have a gap then it is a lathe with a 28" swing _and_ a 1600rpm top speed. Which is a rather special combination,
[19:08:38] <The_Ball> andypugh, you are talking about a removable part of the bed for swinging larger objects?
[19:08:46] <andypugh> Yes
[19:09:28] <The_Ball> looking at the mount point for the x ball screw it doesn't look removable
[19:09:55] <The_Ball> The support is too close to the chuck
[19:10:47] <andypugh> On the contrary, I can see no reason that it would stop there if there wasn't a gap piece.
[19:11:18] <andypugh> Normally the screw runs full-length and is driven from the headstock end.
[19:12:16] <The_Ball> andypugh, on a cnc lathe? On a normal lathe it's geared through the headstock sure, I don't know what I'm talking about though
[19:12:34] <andypugh> For really big stuff you would be using a face-plate
[19:13:45] <andypugh> It's a Colchester Mascot. That's a manual machine with a factory CNC conversion:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/colchester/page27.html
[19:14:25] <The_Ball> oh
[19:15:15] <andypugh> 3" through the spindle and 1600 rpm. Those are not going to be cheap bearings.
[19:37:57] <andypugh> Night chaps