#avr | Logs for 2014-03-10

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[00:06:20] <myself> I heard there's a good movie about how to train them
[00:06:31] <myself> but it doesn't mention how to install drivers for it
[00:11:27] <Casper> myself: maybe it's covered in how to train your dragon 2?
[05:23:24] <bezoka> Hello, if I know little c++ is better learn c or Asembler first for atmega8?
[05:23:55] <bezoka> C is easier I think, but if I learn Asembler I will know architecture of procesor ;)
[05:24:14] <guanche> Lambda-Aurigae: was you the guy that told me uses hdd motors as encoders for radio-related projects?
[05:25:24] <guanche> I've been digging into this for a dew days, and as comparators don't seem to like negative feedback but still I can't use an inverting circuit here (or the motor will consume and present cogging), was just wondering how did you solve the fact that very slow movements make the output jitter
[05:25:51] <guanche> right now I can make it work with this circuit:
[05:26:11] <guanche> http://wemakethings.net/assets/images/2013-02-18-stepper-encoder-schematics.jpg
[05:27:02] <guanche> the only problem being slow rotating motion causes jitter to the ouput, so hysteresis doesn't seem to be possible here
[06:09:58] <Lambda-Aurigae> guanche, no, I use the encoders out of car radios.
[06:10:56] <guanche> a ok, sorry, still trying to get somewhere with the hdd encoder thing
[06:41:03] <Roklobsta> abcminiuser: see the review in the paper?
[06:41:11] <abcminiuser> No, where?
[06:45:09] <Roklobsta> http://www.theage.com.au/digital-life/computers/blogs/gadgets-on-the-go/hands-on-lifx-smart-light-bulbs-20140306-34a1h.html
[07:00:46] <w|zzy> The android app is still almost useless but the iphone app is pretty usable. Luckily my wife has an iphone so its not all lost.
[07:01:05] <w|zzy> As the article states they are still lacking many features promised but they will come through.... eventually.....
[13:28:58] <R0b0t1> avrdude keeps giving me programmer not synced
[13:29:11] <R0b0t1> I'm unable to burn the bootloader with icsp, with much the same error
[13:41:10] <N2TOH> try a different programing speed? I noticed with my STK500 board that it would program but fail on the verify if I had the ISP set wrong
[13:41:22] <N2TOH> ISP Speed set wrong*
[14:38:18] <hotch> Can anyone recommend a "good" multimeter < $30 USD?
[14:48:58] <Fleck> hotch: avr based? :D
[14:49:45] <hotch> hah, not needed but would be cool :) I'd ask in #arduino but since moving to strictly AVR and bit shifting I've learned a lot lurking here :)
[14:50:25] <Fleck> yeah there ofter are better answers than there and than ##electronics
[14:51:02] <hotch> 100%!
[14:54:41] <hotch> So Fleck - suggestions?
[14:55:05] <RikusW> DT830B
[14:55:15] <RikusW> its a cheapy $10 DMM
[14:56:17] <RikusW> I have a $100 LCR capable DMM too :)
[14:57:19] <hotch> Thanks.
[14:59:49] <RikusW> http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/dt830b-digital-multimeter.php
[15:01:29] <Fleck> hotch: no clue, I have this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-Digital-Useful-Mastech-MY61-3-1-2-Multimeter-DMM-AC-DC-uF-FREE-P-P-/111185789452?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item19e330820c
[15:05:29] <Fleck> ohh, no I have MY64
[15:05:32] <Fleck> but looks the same
[15:08:20] <RikusW> My Wavetek DM27XT got a UM7108F ADC -> http://www.vanade.com/~blc/html/hardware/UMECD001-6-27.pdf
[15:08:39] <RikusW> So I _finally_ found its datasheet :)
[15:48:50] <RikusW> http://www.vanade.com/~blc/html/hardware/
[15:49:00] <RikusW> He's got AVRs :)
[16:06:43] <Roter> hey guys, i have a sevend segment display from a tv receiver, the only part identifier on it is, i believe, a code: 349201GBWSB-2 . I tryed googling it, but google cant find, anyting, no results. Can i still do something with it?
[16:07:49] <Roter> i tried to find ground and check some pins, but of all the pins, only 2 pins worked, for 2 segments. There are not even enough pins for every segment.
[16:15:57] <braincracker> hello my friends :)
[16:18:23] <OndraSter__> \o
[16:28:22] <RikusW> hotch: seems its even cheaper than $10, more like $5 http://www.amazon.com/HOME-DECOR-DT830B-Multimeter-19-Range/dp/B001T3Y8XW
[16:28:46] <hotch> Yeah, the reviews make it hard to decide :)
[16:29:11] <RikusW> its a good idea to have more than one DMM
[16:30:30] <braincracker> would you do midi synthesis on an avr ? or rathe just use an old p3 600MHz pc ?
[16:31:39] <RikusW> http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/testing-semiconductors.php
[16:31:55] <RikusW> PC sounds way easier
[16:32:35] <vanila> is there a page with some basic circuits you can build with AVRs?
[16:32:48] <vanila> the beginners site didn't have that
[16:35:38] <braincracker> RikusW yeah, easier, but larger, consumes more power, and more possible errors
[16:35:53] <braincracker> vanila sure, what is your goal ?
[16:37:06] <vanila> well I'd like to understand more about the development boards you get AVR chips on, their schematics are very complicated though so I need to understand simpler ones first
[16:37:44] <vanila> I was looking at things like how to make it act as a USB keyboard - that was useful
[16:41:47] <braincracker> vanila<= well that is something, it is not hard to hook up a few leds, a speaker, a relay, a temperature sensor, and get busy for weeks
[16:42:08] <braincracker> you just need something useful to do
[16:42:29] <braincracker> an oven temperature controller with a 2x16 lcd sounds fun
[16:42:50] <braincracker> bake cookies, and eat them when you are done
[16:42:51] <vanila> I wouldn't know where to start! even with the data sheets - so I want to take some simple ones apart to get the idea about how the circuits are designed/layed out
[16:43:16] <braincracker> oh i thought you already made an usb keyboard
[16:43:27] <vanila> oh no I was just reading someoens tutorial about it
[16:43:50] <braincracker> a microcontroller needs power 3-5V, some filter capacitors, a programming port, and it will work
[16:45:18] <braincracker> wire up a series resistor with a port like portd1, connect a led to it, the other terminal of the led to V+, and you can flash a led, by running your mcu on the internal rc oscillator you don't even have to put a crystal in the circuit
[16:45:32] <braincracker> this is not simpler than said
[16:47:19] <braincracker> the reason it is good to complicate the board, is, you can use your board for many purposes
[16:48:15] <braincracker> if you make it modular, include let's say 10 leds when you only need 2, can allow you to reuse your board for other things later
[19:54:04] <hotch> I've read about the benefits of a decoupling capacitor around .1uF in an avr circuit, but am trying to understand where I would need it on an ATtiny85 project, since most projects that I see are on the 88 series directly from VCC/GND?
[19:54:27] <Lambda-Aurigae> same on any circuit
[19:54:37] <Lambda-Aurigae> as close to the VCC and GND pins as possible on every chip.
[19:56:29] <Casper> hotch: cmos parts are not made of bjt, but fet. the fet gate is basically a capacitor. each time there is a change of state, there is an huge current flowing to the gate, which is basically only limited by the crappiness of the part used.
[19:57:01] <Casper> the pcb traces have resistance and inductance, which cause the voltage at the chip to drop at every single change of state
[19:57:35] <Casper> that small capacitor provide enought energy to stabilise alot the voltage, and prevent it from dropping too much and causing a malfunction
[19:57:52] <Casper> that capacitor should be a ceramic type, not electrolytic
[19:59:39] <hotch> Casper & Lambda-Aurigae - thanks, I've got that part, but on a picture (still working on reading circuit diagrams vs. a breadboard image - I see the ceramic .1uF capacitor on an ATmega167 directly connecting VSS/GND. Correct?
[19:59:43] <hotch> VCC**
[20:00:01] <Lambda-Aurigae> yes.
[20:00:09] <Lambda-Aurigae> do the same on the attiny.
[20:00:30] <hotch> So I guess that my question is - if it needs to be very close between, how so I go from my GNC to my VCC (on a breadboard, whereas a PCB would be easy).
[20:00:36] <Casper> hotch: as close as possible to gnd and vcc, one for each vcc pin ideally
[20:00:50] <Casper> you could just make them on top of the chip
[20:01:08] <Lambda-Aurigae> put it over the top of the chip and plug into the first holes next to the pins on the solderless breadboard.
[20:01:29] <hotch> got it. my capacitors legs just aren't long, ok. thanks.
[20:01:56] <Lambda-Aurigae> I've been known to put them under the chip when using 40pin dip chips on a breadboard.
[20:02:06] <Lambda-Aurigae> and/or on a PCB.
[20:02:41] <hotch> Got it, awesome. thanks all.
[20:03:40] <Tom_itx> doubt it does much good on a breadboard anyway
[20:03:48] <Tom_itx> they're kinda crappy for circuit design
[20:04:06] <Lambda-Aurigae> they have lots of built in capacitance anyhow.
[20:04:29] <Lambda-Aurigae> enough even so you don't need the caps on an external crystal.
[20:04:59] <hotch> OK, good to know.
[20:05:16] <Lambda-Aurigae> don't count on it...but I've done it before.
[20:05:22] <hotch> :)
[20:08:10] <Casper> I got issue that got solved with the cap on breadboard
[20:08:42] <Casper> so it can help, not as well as we could hope, but can't be worse
[20:09:02] <Lambda-Aurigae> oh definitely.
[20:09:28] <Lambda-Aurigae> I've seen circuits built on breadboard that wouldn't run on a custom PCB...due to the stray capacitances on the breadboard.
[20:09:32] <Lambda-Aurigae> and versa-visa.
[20:10:06] <Casper> I think I'll probe a psu with my new oscope and see better what I need to do to maybe hack it up...
[20:10:20] <Casper> storage oscope is so much better than analog one
[20:10:35] <Lambda-Aurigae> sometimes.
[20:10:55] <Lambda-Aurigae> I like analog scopes for audio stuff.
[20:11:39] <Lambda-Aurigae> watch audio waveforms in realtime.