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[05:10:46] <grummund> cnczone.com blocked?
[06:04:57] <Horologium> grummund, chrome thinks the site has malware on it.
[06:06:01] <grummund> as does firefox and google
[06:20:09] <iSaleK> usbasp cannot programm tiny2313 while it's on board, when I remove it from board it and connect to another the same chip is detected by usbasp directly via board and also via isp pins (directly soldered to the mcu)
[06:20:19] <iSaleK> Anyone has an idea what could be the problem?
[06:20:37] <Horologium> something on your board pulling the programming pins up or down.
[06:21:04] <Horologium> if I'm reading correctly what you wrote.
[06:21:13] <grummund> depends what you have connected in circuit on the SPI and reset pins.
[06:21:15] <Horologium> the chip can be programmed off the board but not on the board, correct?
[06:22:36] <iSaleK> yes
[06:22:52] <iSaleK> I have 74HC574 buffers connected to ISP pins on the board
[06:22:54] <Horologium> and what is connected to the reset, and SPI pins?
[06:23:11] <iSaleK> Reset has 10k pull-up and that's it
[06:23:12] <Horologium> that could be causing it...
[06:23:32] <iSaleK> Can I fix it without removing the buffers?
[06:23:33] <iSaleK> :)
[06:23:50] <Horologium> put jumpers between the isp pins and the buffers.
[06:23:54] <Horologium> remove jumpers for programming.
[06:24:23] <Horologium> is likely the usbasp can not drive the pins on the avr and the buffer both strong enough to perform the programming.
[06:24:34] <Horologium> likely/possible
[06:24:56] <grummund> iSaleK: the tiny is connected to the buffer inputs only, right?
[06:25:07] <iSaleK> grummund: yes
[06:25:14] <grummund> it should work then
[06:25:35] <iSaleK> Well then I don't know why it doesn't work when it should :)
[06:25:52] <grummund> are you powering the board from the probrammer?
[06:26:37] <iSaleK> I have tried both, powering from USB and powering from external power supply, both fail
[06:27:12] <iSaleK> (when powering from external power supply, I have removed the VCC pin from the ISP)
[06:27:38] <grummund> sure the connections are correct?
[06:27:45] <grummund> ISP
[06:29:46] <iSaleK> When I remove it from the board, same ISP pins work just fine
[06:30:34] <Horologium> try disconnecting the isp pins from the buffer one at a time till you find the one that is causing the problem.
[06:31:00] <Horologium> then put a jumper on said pin or pins.
[06:31:17] <grummund> shouldn't need jumpers
[06:31:28] <grummund> is the buffer socketed?
[06:31:30] <iSaleK> I can't, its already soldered to the board... I would have to somehow cut the isp nets leading to the buffers..
[06:31:41] <Horologium> shouldn't but something in the rest of the circuit is probably pulling one or more of those pins the wrong way.
[06:32:51] <Horologium> well, you need some way of physically separating those pins to test it....pull the avr off the board and run wires from the board to a solderless breadboard for testing maybe...
[06:33:32] <Horologium> just saying "it should work but it doesn't" does no good...you need to be able to do some physical troubleshooting...without that there is no way to figure out what is causing the problem.
[06:34:10] <Horologium> if we had a schematic it might help to figure it out as well.
[06:36:57] <iSaleK> Here is the schematic
[06:36:58] <iSaleK> http://sasakaranovic.com/Schematic.pdf
[06:38:10] <iSaleK> as you can see the problem is that all 4 buffers are connected to ISP pins
[06:38:21] <iSaleK> and 2 of them are SMD and 2 are DIP
[06:39:20] <Horologium> where does PB7 go? labeled DS
[06:41:28] <Horologium> looks like PB7 gets pulled high through a 4.7K resistor.
[06:41:34] <Horologium> that's likely your problem.
[06:42:17] <Horologium> PB7 being the SCK(serial clock) line of the programming interface....pulling it high like that will probably cause you problems.
[06:42:52] <iSaleK> Ok, it's pull-up from the DS1820 termometer
[06:43:10] <Horologium> so, you have to separate that pin from that pullup resistor
[06:43:24] <Horologium> you said the programming lines were only connected to the buffers.....wrong there.
[06:43:46] <Horologium> it's being forced high and will not allow programming.
[06:43:59] <iSaleK> Hmmm, what's the painless way to fix that?
[06:44:08] <iSaleK> I gues 10K won't help so I have to add some jumpers?
[06:44:11] <Horologium> put a jumper between the two
[06:44:25] <Horologium> or a buffer.
[06:44:48] <grummund> iSaleK: before looking for a solution first prove that is the problem by removing the resistor.
[06:44:52] <Horologium> but a buffer won't work as you are using that as a two way so it would have to be a two way tri-state buffer.
[06:45:28] <grummund> iSaleK: and/or the DS1820.
[06:50:52] <iSaleK> I will try now to see if the resistor is making problems
[06:50:56] <iSaleK> I will let you know
[06:51:02] <iSaleK> thanks for the suggestions
[07:13:47] <iSaleK> Thank you grummund and Horologium, the DS1820's pull-up resistor was making the problem with programming... I didn't realize that it was connected to the SCK pin :)
[07:14:32] <grummund> try higher value resistor
[07:14:55] <grummund> if it is marginal you could try reducing the programming clock speed
[07:22:53] <iSaleK> Im' not sure about DS1820, in datasheet they specificly say 4K7 resistor, but I will try with a higher value :)
[07:23:03] <iSaleK> Thanks, now I know whats the problem :)
[08:08:30] <iSaleK> Is there an option in Atmel studio that highlights closing bracket when i click/select on the opening bracket?
[08:55:06] <jadew> iSaleK, isn't it comming with visual assist x?
[08:55:12] <jadew> if it does, check the options there
[09:16:22] <Steffanx> unless he still uses AS4 jadew
[09:22:11] <inkjetunito> aaargh capitalism did it again
[09:23:18] <inkjetunito> i bought a Fluke meter and the cables are almost as bad as Apple ones
[10:57:20] <grummund> apple make multimeters now?
[10:59:38] <soul-d> i woulnd mind to try them on a 5kv line here
[11:42:42] <iSaleK> Can someone please take a look at my code...
[11:43:19] <iSaleK> My DS18x20 thermometer acts wierd, 2nd digit is working fine (displays 5) but first digit is changing and doesn't make sense...
[11:43:21] <iSaleK> http://pastebin.com/tE5vNFMM
[11:50:33] <inkjetunito> iSaleK: do you check CRC at all?
[11:51:33] <inkjetunito> grummund: no. their power adapters are just something that brake all the time, and the quality gets worse on every purchase
[11:53:01] <iSaleK> inkjetunito: No, I just read high/low bytes from the scratchpad and display it on the 4x7segment display
[11:53:09] <iSaleK> I don't have uart to debug it
[11:56:49] <jadew> iSaleK, wth is this? temperature = (temperature >> 4) & 0x00FF;
[11:57:15] <jadew> which DS18 do you have?
[11:57:18] <jadew> B or S?
[11:58:18] <iSaleK> jadew: I have DS18B20. That line is for getting round value since DS is set to 12bit resolution
[11:59:12] <iSaleK> last 4 bits are .5 .25 .125 .0625
[11:59:25] <iSaleK> And its in Celsius
[12:00:11] <jadew> I see, why don't you go for 9 bits?
[12:00:26] <jadew> it has only 0.5 C accuracy anyway
[12:01:20] <iSaleK> I would be happy even with 8bits since I can't display decimal value, however I don't want to screw something up since I don't have logic analyzer or scope to debug it
[12:01:35] <iSaleK> and this board doesn't have uart for debugging :\
[12:01:39] <jadew> so how do you know it's set to 12 bits?
[12:01:44] <jadew> by default it's set to 9
[12:02:22] <iSaleK> are you sure? Because 4 of them that I've bought together, all have been set to 12bit
[12:02:39] <iSaleK> I've tested it on another board with uart
[12:02:39] <jadew> let me check something
[12:03:01] <jadew> ah, mine are S
[12:03:06] <jadew> I thought they're B
[12:03:42] <jadew> so you want to get rid of the decimal bits?
[12:04:02] <iSaleK> Yes
[12:04:28] <jadew> in that case that line is fine
[12:04:33] <iSaleK> That function that I've posted works just fine with another DS on another board so I don't know what's wrong :\
[12:04:42] <jadew> you didn't have to do the AND tho
[12:05:37] <iSaleK> It's for - sign (if it occures)
[12:05:48] <jadew> that while can be rewritten to temp_high = temperature / 10 :)
[12:05:58] <jadew> temp_low = temperature % 10;
[12:06:22] <iSaleK> I know, I've tried several combinations, none of them worked right :)
[12:06:34] <jadew> well, you have to output what you're reading
[12:06:57] <jadew> the original value
[12:07:19] <iSaleK> Without uart it's tough job :\
[12:07:28] <jadew> just display it on the LCD
[12:09:24] <iSaleK> It's 4x sevensegment
[12:09:59] <iSaleK> Still I would have to modify it for the seven segment... and maybe I would get the same thing where high value is changing and low is fixed
[12:10:27] <jadew> you can display it in hex, no?
[12:10:40] <jadew> I guess not really...
[12:10:45] <iSaleK> Not really :\
[12:10:54] <jadew> actually you can
[12:10:57] <jadew> you can do A
[12:11:03] <jadew> for B you can do something like L
[12:11:14] <jadew> for C - you can do it
[12:11:20] <jadew> D - reverse L
[12:11:26] <jadew> E - can be done
[12:11:30] <jadew> F - can be done
[13:28:34] <crazy_imp> is it possible to tell avr-gcc to use a custom interrupt table?
[13:28:47] <Grievar> If a timer interrupt occurs while interrupts are disabled, will the interupt stay "pending" until you re-enable interrupts?
[13:28:52] <Grievar> or will that timer interrupt just get lost
[13:35:47] <darknite> i just gets discarded
[13:36:42] <darknite> or uhm, doesn't disabling interrupts basically mean disabling the timers, so the interrupts doesn't occur at all? i've only done simple interrupt examples and not looked into cli/sei yet
[13:41:43] <Grievar> darknite: that would be annoying. That would mean there's no way to keep track of time if you need to have any other interrupts occurring
[13:42:11] <OndraSter_> <Grievar> If a timer interrupt occurs while interrupts are disabled, will the interupt stay "pending" until you re-enable interrupts?
[13:42:12] <OndraSter_> this
[13:42:26] <OndraSter_> it will have the "interrupt" flag set
[13:42:48] <OndraSter_> and when the I flag in MCUCSR is enabled again all the pending interrupts will happen (in order from their #)
[13:45:10] <OndraSter_> counters of course do not stop when you clear I flag
[13:45:14] <OndraSter_> you can still use PWM outputs
[13:46:16] <Grievar> OndraSter_: ah. But I assume if two timer interrupts occur while the I flag is cleared, only one will happen when I set it
[13:46:22] <Grievar> which is fine
[13:46:35] <OndraSter_> actually
[13:46:43] <OndraSter_> each OC has got its flag
[13:46:44] <OndraSter_> ;)
[13:46:50] <Grievar> er, I mean two interrupts by the /same/ timer
[13:47:03] <OndraSter_> if they were on the same OC channel, yes
[14:47:11] <tzanger> nice, I got a SAM9G25 eval kit today
[15:53:27] <discorpia> has anyone in here used an avrisp mkii on osx? avrdude finds it without any problems but it doesn't create/identify as a serial device; /dev/tty*
[15:54:48] <qartis> discorpia: I think the device file is called something else on mac
[15:55:25] <qartis> try /dev/cu*
[15:56:57] <discorpia> aha, i'll have a look, thank you
[16:07:19] <rue_house> cau
[17:21:32] <foo303> Inspired by rue_house, I opened my old playstation and playstation2
[17:22:06] <foo303> not much components that are documented though. although there was a processor with a nice shiny finish on the ps2 called EmotionEngine
[17:23:38] <foo303> some stuff by sharp, toshiba and samsung inside, but no datasheets anywhere. *sad*
[17:24:44] <rue_house> yea,
[17:24:52] <rue_house> what you looking for parts to make
[17:25:58] <foo303> well, recently I've been looking for parts that I know how to use, period, but what I *have* to make right now, for example, is
[17:26:06] <r00t|home> foo303: current game consoles are always completely proprietary... (except the pandora, lol)
[17:27:03] <foo303> o boy. okay, so I work with an artist who does crazy shit. with that, we bought a turntable set, and we took it apart and I'm asked to receive data from the internet and use the change in information(I'm assuming diffing, at this point) to cause a scratch on the record
[17:27:28] <r00t|home> change on the internet? impossible!
[17:27:29] <foo303> so I took it apart, and I saw a 6v DC motor by a company called Sanko
[17:27:34] <foo303> r00t|home: on some sites :p
[17:27:41] <foo303> r00t|home: hahaha
[17:27:43] <foo303> yes, that too.
[17:28:24] <foo303> now, I am assuming it's a reversible motor, since when I flipped its wires and tested with the arduino 5 volt output, it worked in the other direction
[17:28:37] <r00t|home> foo303: you can't possibly 'scratch' a belt-driven turntable using it's stock DC motor... it has WAY too low power to move the table/record around at such speeds
[17:28:44] <foo303> also, because I heard turntable motors tend to be reversible, as DJs won't be as nice as I am with the motor
[17:29:11] <foo303> hmm. so maybe I should replace it with a bigger reversible motor?
[17:29:19] <r00t|home> foo303: either get a technics 1200 ($400), or put in a motor from an electric lawn-mower or something
[17:29:27] <foo303> we contemplated using steppers, but that wouldn't make a good sound I believe
[17:29:27] <r00t|home> maybe a large stepper
[17:29:48] <r00t|home> i don't think sound quality is all that relevant for your application
[17:29:52] <foo303> the thing is: mounting it to fit in the turntable and hold the belt properly
[17:30:08] <foo303> Why can't I scratch with the motor in it?
[17:30:17] <Horologium> scratching records....my father would have tanned my hide if I had ever scratched his records...sheesh.
[17:30:23] <foo303> move move move stop reverse reverse stop move
[17:30:26] <r00t|home> foo303: the belt is too tensile to transfer 'scratch' movements anyway
[17:31:13] <r00t|home> foo303: you need to do that pretty fast, the record/table has quite a lot of mass, stock motor doesn't have the power to reverse/forward it like that
[17:31:38] <foo303> it has the power to forward it at the required speed, as well as a higher speed too
[17:32:02] <foo303> so maybe if I move at the normal speed, then reverse at the faster one all of a sudden, then move at the normal speed forward it could work?
[17:32:04] <r00t|home> foo303: a critical parameter of a good turntable is how fast it gets the record up to speed... _good_ ones are under 1s... but that's still not enough for scratching back and forward quickly
[17:32:05] <Horologium> but not the high torque to drive it back and forth like that real fast.
[17:32:24] <r00t|home> yes, torque is the issue...
[17:32:32] <foo303> hmm. I thought so too..
[17:32:44] <foo303> the problem is, if I get another motor, I'd have to drill holes in it
[17:32:53] <foo303> to be able to mount it like the original stock motor was mounted
[17:33:14] <foo303> and it has some funny thing mounted on it too, the one that holds the belt.. and that will be a nightmare to fabricate or find
[17:33:32] <foo303> I do have a 12 volt stepper motor
[17:34:14] <foo303> and it's fitting the form factor, but.. the holes to screw it to the turntable and the mount on the head that makes it appropriate for holding the belt
[17:34:17] <r00t|home> foo303: maybe the easiest way would be to put a rubber wheel on the motor shaft and have it drive the table directy instead of using the belt
[17:34:41] <r00t|home> (or even leave the old motor and belt in, for normal playback, and only have the extra motor kick in for scratching)
[17:34:45] <foo303> unless I could just break apart from all this and poke holes in my turntable provided the belt isn't precisely made to fit that specific pull from the distance
[17:35:00] <Horologium> stepper, for record....well, I suppose you are just making noise with it rather than actually listening to the music so shouldn't matter...
[17:35:06] <foo303> r00t|home: I like that last idea. A lot.
[17:35:44] <foo303> Horologium: I am worried about that too. I'd want to get as much high quality as possible while getting this job done, but at the same time, yeah: How :p
[17:36:11] <r00t|home> foo303: i guess the best way to get the scratching effect would be to have two motors, spinning in opposite directions, and using a mechanical clutch to alternately connect them to the table... instead of trying to reverse a single motor
[17:36:23] <Horologium> scratching records.....high quality.....how are those anywhere remotely related?
[17:36:54] <foo303> Horologium: the time of playing normally is most likely going to be less than the time spent scratching
[17:37:27] <foo303> r00t|home: too much space for that, I assume
[17:37:38] <Horologium> just draw a fork across the record diagonally then put it on the record player....problem solved....pre-scratched.
[17:38:00] <r00t|home> foo303: i'd just make a custom enclosure, doing anything in the stock turntable isn't going to be fun
[17:38:03] <Horologium> should sound about the same either way.
[17:38:13] <r00t|home> heh
[17:38:35] <foo303> I doubt precision is a big issue, just, yeah, I don't want the scratch to sound like: music slows down and reaches a halt, record plays in reverse and slows down to reach a halt, resume normal operation. Read my sentences in slow motion to see how annoying I feel it will be.
[17:38:52] <foo303> Horologium: haha
[17:39:08] <r00t|home> foo303: THAT is what's going to happen if you don't use some very powerful motor...
[17:39:52] <foo303> can I do it with a higher voltage reversible DC motor?
[17:39:58] <foo303> say, 12volts?
[17:40:12] * foo303 looks at shiny TIP 122s for making an H-bridge
[17:40:16] <foo303> ...for the CAUSE.
[17:40:16] <r00t|home> more like 36 volts, 120 volts, ... :P
[17:40:17] <foo303> ugh.
[17:40:21] <foo303> damn.
[17:40:42] <foo303> I do have a 36 volt solenoid. maybe I could let it push the motor in the other direction
[17:40:52] <foo303> then when it lets go the motor keeps playing
[17:41:36] <foo303> nah. too much setup to mount that. although in terms of programming it, scratch would mean: solenoid. go! solenoid stop!
[17:41:37] <r00t|home> foo303: i like the two-motors idea... find a turntable with a rim under the table that can be driven from both sides... put two motors with rubber wheels on a plate, so the wheels are on opposite sides of the rim... then make some swivel mount so that you can have either motor wheel touch the rim, use a selenoid to move it around
[17:42:51] * foo303 scratches head
[17:42:56] <r00t|home> that should get some relatively decent scratching action without moving to lawnmower motors
[17:43:21] <foo303> the thing is, we already got the turntables.
[17:43:24] <r00t|home> foo303: pun intended, eh?
[17:43:32] <foo303> r00t|home: most definitely. :p
[17:44:14] <r00t|home> foo303: shitty turntables are cheap enough to just get different ones... and you aren't going to waste good ones on this, eh? (we already know they are belt-driven, so they are junk anyway)
[17:44:28] <foo303> the one we got is $300
[17:44:39] <foo303> but he did tell me that he's willing to buy another if shit happens
[17:44:42] <foo303> ...for the CAUSE.
[17:44:44] <foo303> haha
[17:45:13] <r00t|home> why not use some $10 junk turntable? not worth it really...
[17:46:09] <foo303> I will look more into the table itself, maybe if I can mount something directly on the record, say a 12 volt stepper, moving in the opposite direction to scratch, then turns off would do it for me
[17:46:15] <foo303> so, two motors, yes
[17:46:42] <r00t|home> that would also be a good method - the record itself has less mass, easier to reverse
[17:47:05] <r00t|home> but you'd most likely have to mount the second motor on top where it can reach the record
[17:47:07] <foo303> there is another, more interesting problem raised here, which is the balancer. it's some sort of slider and we're supposed to control that as well. so I thought I'd desolder it and figure out how it works, then send that kind of data using my avr
[17:47:25] <foo303> r00t|home: or the bottorm, depending on space
[17:47:41] <r00t|home> you mean the pitch control? or the left/right balance on the amp?
[17:47:48] <foo303> lef/right balance, yeah
[17:48:12] <r00t|home> get a digital potentiometer chip and connect it instead of the balance pot
[17:48:37] <foo303> so, I was thinking: connect it to arduino, read ATD from it and figure out what's the encoding
[17:48:55] <r00t|home> the analog signal always goes right through the pot, there is no encoding
[17:48:58] <foo303> AFTER desoldering it, which freaks me out, but I'll be a man and do it.
[17:49:30] <foo303> ah, so left would be zero and right would be some known number, and everything in between is. well between that?
[17:49:34] <foo303> (for instance)
[17:50:05] <r00t|home> it's a potentiometer... the signal goes though it, and by moving it you alternate the resistance
[17:50:25] <r00t|home> there are digital chips being made as drop-in replacements
[17:50:40] <foo303> oh. hmm. so, to control that can I just use pwm?
[17:50:51] <r00t|home> no, you get an up/down button
[17:50:57] <r00t|home> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_potentiometer
[17:51:38] <r00t|home> wikipedia says are the ones with i2c/spi aswell
[17:52:32] <foo303> hmm. I'll go look for a digital pot
[17:52:35] <foo303> tomorrow
[17:52:55] <foo303> as well as a capacitor to try the l2930d h-bridge for fun
[17:53:11] <foo303> since I got it to try to reverse the stock motor! *RAGE*
[17:53:48] <foo303> while we're at it, the 12 volt stepper I got, is there anyway to drive that cheaply without having to buy a $50 driver?
[17:53:52] <r00t|home> what model is your $300 turntable, btw?
[17:54:31] <foo303> I tried to drive it with my 5v output from an arduino, but it looked stupid and just shaking, so I'm assuming maybe I wasn't doing the proper sequence
[17:54:42] <foo303> it's a numark.. uhm, let me check
[17:54:56] <foo303> ti 1610
[17:54:59] <r00t|home> to drive a stepper you just need a dual h-bridge (for bipolar ones), or just four open-colletor outputs (unipolar)
[17:55:09] <r00t|home> what a waste
[17:55:24] <foo303> it's 4 wires, so I'm assuming it's bipolar
[17:55:25] <r00t|home> also ugly, lol
[17:55:31] <foo303> as fsck.
[17:55:33] <foo303> seriously
[17:55:47] <foo303> but, thank god I'm not being asked to make the artwork
[17:55:58] <foo303> I just have to make it work :p
[17:56:36] <r00t|home> also, they cost 99eur new... not quite 300usd...
[17:56:55] <foo303> ah. so his arithmetic sucks too.
[17:57:18] <foo303> cheaaap
[17:57:33] <foo303> holy crap :p
[17:57:45] <foo303> for the entire set, r00t|home?!
[17:57:52] <foo303> I'll check on amazon for this set
[17:58:47] <foo303> 2 turntables + 1 amp
[17:59:42] <foo303> well, yeah, it's really junk anyway. thanks for making me feel better while fucking it, rue_house :)
[17:59:54] <foo303> damn. that does sound horribly wrong.
[18:00:54] <r00t|home> ?
[18:01:09] <r00t|home> is that an amp or a mixer?
[18:01:37] <foo303> it's a numark dm 950
[18:01:54] <foo303> that's the one we have to hack the balancer for
[18:02:06] <r00t|home> that's not am amp
[18:02:27] <foo303> so, yes, mixer, sorry :p
[18:02:37] * foo303 not sure about the terminology for turntables
[18:02:46] <r00t|home> the effect would be better if you build some mechanic contraption to move the slider... i would expect that to be what's intended anyway
[18:02:59] <foo303> it is the cooler intention that we both wanted
[18:03:37] <foo303> but I felt it would be such a hassle to hide a michanical arm inside. I would need linear motion and a servo I bet
[18:03:54] <foo303> I got a high torque 5v servo, just, no idea of how to make linear motion out of it
[18:05:29] <r00t|home> i would put a plastic sheet between the fader and the frontplate, with a hole for the fader button, and then roll that onto some kind of winch - could be completely hidden
[18:06:48] <foo303> so, two winches, then
[18:06:59] <foo303> one for pulling in one direction, the other for pulling in the other direction
[18:07:14] <r00t|home> or a sheet with appropriate mechanical properties to allow pushing it
[18:07:44] <foo303> I like the two winches idea. least modifications to the outside shape it seems
[18:07:56] <foo303> just tie a nice wire under the metal plate for the winches
[18:08:06] <foo303> bam. push, pull motors.
[18:09:19] <foo303> hmm. basically tomorrow is all about space :p
[18:09:28] <foo303> thanks for the tips, rue_house :)
[18:09:38] <foo303> I'll keep you posted surely
[18:09:39] <r00t|home> i'm not rue_house
[18:09:48] <foo303> oh.
[18:09:56] <foo303> but you follow the same pattern!
[18:10:05] <foo303> well, thanks, r00t|home!
[18:10:26] <foo303> localized IRCing
[18:10:37] <r00t|home> tell me about the results when it's done
[18:10:51] <foo303> Definitely.
[18:11:30] <r00t|home> btw, as you are building a web data visualization: coolest web data visualization i've seen so far:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Julius+Popp+bit+fall
[18:11:32] <foo303> also, I will be making the H-bridge work, just in case I needed to do it for a larger project with bigger motors :p
[18:13:04] <foo303> oooh. pretty.
[18:13:15] <foo303> I love the mess anyway :p
[18:14:30] <foo303> wowwowowow
[18:14:35] <r00t|home> there's a basin under it that catches the water
[18:14:41] <foo303> god damn.
[18:14:44] <r00t|home> ?
[18:14:50] <foo303> I love it.
[18:15:05] <foo303> catches the water and then pulls it "Somehow" again?
[18:15:14] <r00t|home> yes, the basin also acts the the reservoir
[18:15:38] <foo303> I love this. Thanks a lot for sharing, root.
[18:15:59] <r00t|home> i have a video of a girl from the exhibition staff filling it up using a watering can
[18:16:01] <foo303> jesus. this is so inspirational. gravity rocks. agh..
[18:16:25] <r00t|home> it's also the most exclusive display ever - using falling water drops for pixels
[18:16:48] <foo303> I once was in a cage of birds during the start of an exhibition, getting pooped at while debugging code
[18:16:51] <foo303> not encouraging :p
[18:17:01] <r00t|home> the only problem is, it's F*CKING LOUD, due to the selenoid valves releasin the drops
[18:17:02] <r00t|home> lol
[18:17:20] <r00t|home> *releasing
[18:18:01] <foo303> yeah, solenoids are cool, I used them for a plotter before, but when I wanted the plotter to be cool and generic, the pen holder I had fabricated for me was too heavy to carry with my 9volt battery
[18:18:14] <r00t|home> foo303: btw, if you put the cable in a loop, you only need one winch and motor - that's the setup old radios use for the tuner control
[18:18:17] <foo303> meh. high power, I am coming!
[18:19:00] <r00t|home> i'm off...
[18:19:05] <foo303> laters, root :)
[18:19:08] <foo303> enjoy the holidays.
[18:37:43] <Siliconsoul> hey
[18:38:03] <Siliconsoul> im the guy with htis io via mass storage problem
[18:38:24] <Siliconsoul> seems that there is someone doing something similar
[18:38:30] <Siliconsoul> checkout phatio
[19:59:17] <rue_house> teeheeeehee
[21:17:18] <Grievar> will a .hex file that runs on an atmega168 also run on an atmega328 or are they different enough to make it incompatible?
[21:17:55] <Casper> most probably incompatible
[21:18:09] <Casper> it depend on the feature used
[21:18:23] <Casper> if all the used one are at the same address, it will work, if not it won't work
[22:08:28] <pepsi> i'd guess that it would work.. 88, 168, and 328 are all the same family
[22:13:20] <Tom_itx> 48
[22:22:31] <pepsi> 48 too, eh